Fairhaven's military history is rich with stories of sacrifice

Posted on 20th May 2012 in The monuments of world
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jack iddon/The standard-Times, file Among the cannons at Fort Phoenix are these large Civil War-era pieces. The town and the fort have played key military roles since the Revolution.

By WILLIAM A. MONIZ

May 20, 2012 12:00 AM

Long before its 1812 incorporation, and for the 200 years since, Fairhaven has generously given of its men and women to America’s wars.

In July of 1675, the territory known as Dartmouth, which included present day Fairhaven, New Bedford, and Acushnet, was attacked by Wampanoag warriors. Under the leadership of their Sachem, or leader, Metacomet, known to the English as King Phillip, the Native Americans destroyed all 30 homes in the settlement, killing William Palmer, Jacob and Susannah Mitchell and John Pope in the process.

The town would remain abandoned until King Phillip’s War ended with the signing of the Casco Bay, Maine treaty in April, 1678. The following June, Dartmouth would hold its first town meeting in three years.

Almost a century later, on April 21, 1775, only two days after “the shot heard round the world,” Dartmouth mustered three companies of militia to join the minutemen laying siege to the Redcoats in the town of Boston. Three weeks later, under the command of Captains Daniel Egery and Nathaniel Pope, the 40-ton sloop Success carrying 25 minutemen, set out from Fairhaven to recapture two Colonial merchantmen recently seized by the British Sloop of War HMS Falcon.

After shadowing the British prizes under light winds on the foggy night of May 13, the Success, with Pope at the helm, surprised one anchored sloop at sunrise, overwhelming the British watch before they could cut free from their mooring. Pope, one minuteman, and the ship’s drummer then sailed the recaptured vessel and its British prize crew off to anchor at Fairhaven.

Success, now under Egery’s command, soon spotted the second sloop raising sail off West Island and gave pursuit. Approaching within musket range, Egery ordered his sharpshooter to take aim on an officer in British livery. “The shot felled the officer, more shooting followed, and the Englishmen struck their colors.” (Logs of the Dead Pirates Society, R. S. Peffer, Sheridan House, 2000)

The action resulted in the recapture of both Yankee sloops and the detention of 15 British prisoners including HMS Falcon’s gunner and ship’s surgeon. The first naval battle of the Revolutionary War had ended in an American victory. The wounded British officer who had taken a buckshot pellet to the skull, survived. According to Peffer’s account, the officer was quoted as saying that his family had been called “a hard-headed lot.”

On June 18, 1812, only four months after Fairhaven’s incorporation, President James Madison would sign a declaration of war against Great Britain. According to “Old-Time Fairhaven”, by Charles A. Harris, “In 1812 [ Ft. Phoenix] was again made serviceable, in anticipation of war, being refurbished with a new barracks. During that war the garrison repulsed an attempt to land barges from the British Sloop of War, Nimrod.”

Records provided by Fairhaven Director of Veteran’s Services Jim Cochran show that 14 town men served in “Mr. Madison’s War,” six in the Army and eight in the Navy. At the war’s end in 1815, the Fairhaven contingent had recorded no casualties.

Some 50 years later, Fairhaven servicemen would not be so lucky. Of the town’s 274 soldiers and sailors fighting for the Union in the Civil War, 31 would die from various causes, including; 9 killed in action, 10 of disease, and 3 while imprisoned by the Confederacy.

William H. Bryant, who died at his Fort Street home in 1929 at the age of 80, was a Civil War survivor. Only 15 years old when he enlisted in 1864, he needed his mother’s written consent to join Company D of the 3rd Massachusetts Cavalry. Bryant served in the Red River Campaign in Louisiana, and later saw action with General William Tecumseh Sherman in the Shenandoah Valley.

Trooper Bryant’s service continued even after the surrender of the Confederacy. In May of 1865, as the country transitioned from the Civil War to the Indian Wars, the 3rd Massachusetts was shipped off to Ft. Leavenworth, Kansas. Under General Patrick Connor, Bryant participated in the infamous Powder River Expedition into Wyoming aimed at punishing the Arapaho, Cheyenne, and Sioux for earlier raids on settlers.

Bryant was mustered out of the Army at Boston in September of 1865 and 15 years later the 1880 census listed his occupation as “sailor.” Bryant is buried in Riverside Cemetery.

In 1898, Fairhaven would provide 10 soldiers, 2 sailors and 1 marine, to help “Remember the Maine” in the Spanish American War. All would return home safely.

Twenty years later, World War I would be another story. Of the 328 Fairhaven boys sent “over there” in 1918, 10 would be killed in action and five would die of disease and other causes. In a typical pithy notice, the November 15, 1918 edition of the Fairhaven Star recorded the death of Joseph Perry’s stepson; “Joseph J. Perry of 146 Adams Street received a telegram on Wednesday announcing the death, Oct.8, from broncho pneumonia of Private A. E. Melanson of the 5th Machine Gun Co. Only three days before Mr. Perry received the bad news, Armistice Day had officially ended the war.”

Like William Bryant in the mid-19 Century, Fairhaven’s Luther Pierce would see service in two wars. Commissioned a second lieutenant after graduating the Army Air Corps flying school in Sacramento, Calif. in 1942, Pierce was assigned as a navigator on a B-17 Flying Fortress. During World War II, the 27 year-old Pierce would survive an astonishing 50 bombing missions over Germany.

In 1947, now Captain Pierce was recalled to active duty and in 1950 was back flying combat missions, this time in the skies over Korea. On Oct. 3 of that year Captain Pierce’s luck would run out when his B-26 Invader bomber went missing on a mission over Wonsan.

Captain Pierce was one of seven Fairhaven servicemen to die in the United Nations’ so-called “police action.” A total of 590 Fairhaven men and women served during the Korean Conflict.

The submarine USS Grayback, launched at Groton, Conn. in 1941, compiled an extraordinary record during her 10 separate World War II patrols. At 64,000 tons, the Grayback ranked 20th among all submarines in total tonnage sunk, and 24th in number of ships sunk with 14. The submarine and her crew received two unit commendations and eight battle stars for her extensive Pacific theater service.

Fairhaven’s Carleton Fielding enlisted in the U. S. Navy in February 1943. A three-sport star at Fairhaven High, Fielding, nicknamed “Swede,” was a tenacious two-way lineman in football. At commencement ceremonies, he was the recipient of the coveted Sparrow Cup as the school’s outstanding senior athlete.

After graduating from submarine school at New London, Conn., in the summer of 1943, the 21-year-old Fielding was assigned to the Grayback. The following Jan. 27, a notice in the Fairhaven Star announced, “The engagement of Miss Phyllis E. Jenney … of 726 Washington St. to Seaman Second Class Carleton F. Fielding”»” The brief paragraph ended matter of factly with, “Seaman Fielding is on submarine duty.”

The marriage would never take place. On Feb. 25, 1944, having expended all but two of her torpedoes in sinking three enemy ships and damaging two others, the Grayback was ordered back to base at Midway Island. She would never arrive.

Pieced together from captured Japanese records, the Navy believes it knows the fate of the Grayback. On Feb. 27, 1944, at about the position the Grayback would have been on her way back to base, a Japanese carrier-based aircraft spotted an American submarine running on the surface in the East China Sea. The plane attacked and reported that the submarine “exploded and sank immediately.”

On March 30, 1944, the Grayback was listed as missing and presumed sunk with all 80 of her crew. A full two years later, on May 8, 1946, the Navy Department reported that Carleton Fielding was officially presumed lost. In the 1941 Huttlestonian yearbook, a forever young “Swede” Fielding gazes out over his selected aphorism, “There is always safety in valor.”

Fairhaven’s “Greatest Generation” contributed 1,502 men and women to the Armed Forces during World War II, the most of any war. Including Carleton Fielding, 51 would not return.

In the mid-1950s another Asian war erupted in French Indo-China that, by the mid-1960s would lead to massive American involvement in Vietnam. Of a total of 823 Fairhaven men and women to serve during the Vietnam War, eight would die in service, including four killed in action.

Ironically, one of the town’s highest profile military deaths during the Vietnam Era would occur in Canada. In September 1966, former Fairhaven resident Lt. Commander Richard Oliver, a member of the Navy’s crack Blue Angels aerobatic team, was killed when his F-11 Tiger fighter crashed during a Toronto air show.

Oliver became a town celebrity in 1949 when he rescued a young boy from drowning in the Acushnet River. For his heroics, the 14 year-old Oliver was whisked to New York City where, as a guest of the Boys Clubs of America, he was treated to a Yankees’ baseball game and a private dinner with the team’s iconic star, Joe Dimaggio.

Interviewed a few weeks before his death, the 31 year-old Oliver said, “Vietnam is where I’d like to be next, the more I read about the air war there, the more I wish I were there with those boys helping out.”

In this, its Bicentennial year, the town’s contribution to the nation’s wars continues. According to Veteran’s Services Director Cochran, 182 service men and women have served in the Persian Gulf and Middle East. In 2006, Marine Lance Corporal and Fairhaven native Patrick Gallagher, was killed when the truck in which he was riding rolled over near Asad, Iraq.

The town has over a dozen monuments to its veterans ranging from Revolutionary War plaques at Fort Phoenix, to the Civil War memorial at Bridge Park, to the World War II, Lookout Tower at West Island. Cochran credits the town’s various veterans organizations for their help in maintaining these monuments.

“I couldn’t ask for Fairhaven to be more patriotic,” says Cochran, “veterans’ activities get great support from the town.”



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From Norwood's Morrill Memorial Library: Touring the nation’s capital

Posted on 11th May 2012 in The monuments of world

In 1965, my parents packed our family of six into our Oldsmobile sedan and spent one month touring the country from California to Boston and back again. We first navigated south, stopping at over a dozen national parks along the way. Our trip home was to the north and included Niagara Falls and Reno, Nevada.

On that family vacation, I had my first lessons in navigation using multiple road maps and AAA tour books. I often won the front seat between my parents and spent hours studying the highways, motel amenities, restaurant offerings and sightseeing highlights in the guidebooks.

In this 21st Century, GPS devices guide us along the highways and our smart phones find our favorite coffee and food fixes. We have a plethora of websites to surf before we go and shelves of books, both in the stores and the library, with which to plan an itinerary.

My most profound memories on that trip in 1965, other than a weeklong family reunion in Boston, were those in Washington, D.C.

Recently, when Gerry and I realized that our grandson, Colin, would miss his eighth-grade trip to Washington, D.C. this spring because we will be attending a family wedding elsewhere, we quickly decided that we would make the trip to Washington. We traveled this year during April vacation at the time of the Cherry Blossom Festival.

You can read about Washington D.C.’s famous cherry trees in “Eliza’s Cherry Trees: Japan’s Gift to America,” a fabulous children’s picture book written by Andrea Zimmerman. I had always thought Lady Bird Johnson was responsible for the flowering cherry trees in Washington, DC. (While the Japanese government gave 3,800 trees to Lady Bird for the beautification of the capital city in 1965, the origination of cherry trees in Washington, DC began many years before.) Zimmerman explains in her book that Mrs. Eliza Scidmore tried to bring cherry trees to Washington for more than 24 years and finally succeeded in 1909. First Lady Helen Taft received a donation of 2,000 trees from Japan when Washington’s cherry blossom parade and festival became the highlight of a week in April each year.

Of course, on any trip to Washington, a visit to as many monuments as possible is a must. An overview in the book for adults, “Monuments and Memorials of Washington, D.C.” by Allan M. Heller, will help you decide which ones to visit. Besides the obvious memorials and monuments, the book includes information on monuments to American patriot Nathan Hale, the celebrated writer Henry Wadsworth Longfellow and inventors Albert Einstein and Benjamin Franklin and a check-off list so you can see and do everything.

The beauty of the city is, however, that you can visit most of the monuments on a long and leisurely afternoon walk. Both of J.S. Burrows’ books, “Korean War Memorial” and “Vietnam War Memorial” will introduce you to the reasons why these visits are so fundamental to Americans and those across the world. Brent Ashabranner’s “A Memorial for Mr. Lincoln” and “The Washington Monument: A Beacon for America” explain the planning and reverence for awe-inspiring monuments that never cease to amaze everyone who visits them. (The Washington Monument has been closed to the public since the earthquake in August of 2011 but it is still an astonishing beacon in the center of the mall.)

During our recent trip, we were able to visit the newly-dedicated Martin Luther King Memorial where visitors meet in a plaza somewhat isolated from Washington, D.C.’s bustling traffic on the tidal basis side off the mall. You can read more about this amazing monument in “The Stone of Hope: Martin Luther King Memorial and Master Sculptor Lei Yixin” by Mike Xiong.

Further along the tidal basin on the way to the Jefferson Memorial is the awe-inspiring FDR Memorial. It is a park-like wonder filled with waterfalls and life-sized sculptures. Read “The Franklin Delano Roosevelt Memorial” by Ted and Lola Schaefer.

No trip to Washington, D.C. would be complete without seeing the Capitol or the White House from every angle. This is not as easy as it used to be; 9/11 changed much of the world for us and visits to these notable buildings and grounds are no exception. With our noses pressed to the fence along Constitution Avenue, I was excited to see the White House victory garden planted by Michelle Obama and a beehive, which takes center stage. Robin Gourley’s book for children, “First Garden: The White House Garden and How It Grew” explains how this natural feast came to be. Other terrific children’s books are “The White House: An Illustrated History” by Catherine O’Neill, or “Our White House: Looking In and Looking Out” by the National Children’s Book and Literary Alliance.

In this column, I’ve left out so many of the must-see places – the Arlington Cemetery where we walked among the graves of the three Kennedy brothers and the Tomb of the Unknowns. And, of course, no visit to Washington, D.C. would be complete without the Smithsonian museums such as the National Air and Space Museum where a new exhibit dedicated to the Wright Brothers was a remarkable adventure for us.

Martha Day Zschock has written many delightful books that travel through places using the alphabet and “Journey Around Washington, D.C., from A to Z” is one of them. Another terrific journey is “Capital! Washington D.C. from A to Z” by Laura Krauss Melmed. Another overall tour of Washington, D.C. is the late Edward Kennedy’s “My Senator and Me: A Dog’s View of Washington, D.C.” illustrated by New England author/illustrator David Small.

Before you plan your next visit, pick up an armful of children’s books or a stack of tour books to  introduce your family effortlessly and effectively to one of the best places to visit in this country, Washington, DC. If you would like to reserve any of these titles in DVD or CD version please call the Reference or Information desks of the library, 781-769-0200, or reserve them in the Minuteman Library catalog.

WWII veterans from SC take trip of a lifetime to visit memorials during 'honor flight'

Posted on 11th April 2012 in The monuments of world

Wednesday, April 11, 2012

WASHINGTON — It was a one-of-a-kind field trip for about a hundred World War II veterans from South Carolina to Washington, D.C.

These men served their country in far-away places during the 1940s — from the South Pacific to the battlefields of Europe — but many of the veterans on this trip have never seen the monuments that were built in their honor, which is what the Honor Flight is all about.

The Electric Cooperatives of South Carolina paid for the vets to make the trip and News 12 was invited along to tell their story — our trip was paid for as well.

The veterans left Columbia, S.C., at sunrise on Wednesday and touched down at the nation’s capital. Their first stop on Wednesday was the World War II Memorial, which opened in 2004. The memorial honors the 16 million American soldiers who served in the armed forces.

From there, it was on to the Korean War Memorial, the Vietnam Wall and the Lincoln Memorial. They also got to pay a visit to Arlington National Cemetery, where they saw the changing of the guard.

These veterans are in their 80′s and 90′s now, but many of them were just teenagers when they were called to serve their country. After the war, they went back home to find jobs and start families. But on Wednesday, this band of brothers got back together again.

Dick Witter, 86, is one of those brothers. He says a “lucky break” kept him out of one of the bloodiest battles of the war when he broke his leg playing baseball.

“It kept me out of the Battle of The Bulge. All the fellas that graduated with me went to the Battle of the Bulge,” he said.

Instead, Witter ended up in the South Pacific, arriving in Manila just days after the fighting there.

“All the buildings had been bombed out. There were still dead Japanese in the buildings,” he said.

Walter Chelchowski saw the horrors of war, too, but he saw it from high above in a B-17 bomber.

“I tell ya — when that thing came back, it came back in pieces, but it came back,” he said.

And even though he flew wartime missions, one of his strongest memories is one of the most peaceful.

“Flying over the Alps. I ain’t never seen them Alps coming up out of them clouds … the clouds are way down low … and the Alps are way up there,” he said.

It was a lifetime ago, and a long way from home for Witter and Chelcowski, who were both born in New York and both live just a few miles apart in Aiken now.

They both know they were part of something special.

“Well, the sacrifices that group made to the United States … their willingness to do it, more than anything,” Witter said. “Of course we were being attacked. And we’re gonna stand up and fight.”

Chelcowski said it’ll bring tears to your eyes thinking about it sometimes.

“There’s a lot of guys who deserve a lot more honor than going to Washington to see that memorial,” he said.

Washington is full of memorials, and members of the Greatest Generation worry about the next generation.

“It all depends on the future generations … somebody’s gotta teach these kids in school what these memorials mean,” Chelcowski said. “They’re just not statues over there. They have a meaning — a deep meaning behind ‘em.”


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Architect offers hope amid the globe's ruin and rubble

Posted on 6th April 2012 in The monuments of world

“Where there is danger, some salvation grows there too.”
– Johann Christian Friedrich Hölderlin

During the catastrophic siege of Sarajevo – launched 20 years ago this week – New York architect Lebbeus Woods risked his life to enter the blockaded city and, armed with his provocative renderings of jagged, deformed appendages crawling out of damaged buildings, stood on the steps of the burned-out Olympic Museum, fully exposed to Serbian snipers and artillery gunners.

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“I am an architect, a constructor of worlds, a sensualist who worships the flesh, the melody, a silhouette against the darkening sky,” he declared, holding his “scab architecture” up to the gathered crowd, knowing that Bosnians were being systematically cut down and that a strategy of urbanicide had begun. The National Library of 1896 had also succumbed to mortar attack, burning for two days and turning more than one million books to ash. Woods remained, like the local architects who surrounded him, unfazed. “Tomorrow,” he said, “we begin together the construction of a city.”

Two decades later, Woods’s exhilarating manifesto and his portfolio of War and Architecture drawings, published by Princeton Architectural Press, still matter. Back then, I was the editor of an architecture-and-design magazine called Insite when I published the colour renderings on our cover. They presented distorted growths crawling like parasites up and over scarred buildings. Even while the apartments and civic institutions of Sarajevo crushed people living inside, the drawings affirmed architecture as a powerful agent of collective memory and vessel of consciousness.

They suggested, too, a form of healing, by applying – like a poultice – new interventions to old structures, a principle of rebuilding that applies to cities devastated by war or natural disaster as much as it does for cities in China, Brazil or India (and, yes, Canada, too) undergoing rapid urbanization. Importantly, as historic buildings continue to come down all around us, including mid-century classics of modernism, Woods has placed his faith in a sensitive, aesthetic collage of historic and new.

Depending on who is doing the parsing, his advice is either embraced or rejected. After being crippled by a 1995 earthquake, Kobe, Japan preferred a sterilized version of urbanity, replacing a tight, historic grid and intimate back lanes with suburban-scaled roads to allow fire trucks to move swiftly to residents in the case of another disaster. Though we know that a plasticized remake of neighbourhoods saps citizens of a collective memory, the Meiji-style wooden housing in Kobe was knocked down rather than repaired, then replaced with aluminum-clad prefab houses. Faced with displacement and disoriented by the loss of their traditional homes, the elderly suffered dramatically increased rates of suicide.

Since the 1960s, practitioners and philosophers have seriously questioned the broad assumptions of sterilized urban forms. French critic Roland Barthes asserted that the city speaks to its inhabitants and that they speak back. But let’s face it: All too often, city-building is about brutal, unfettered demolition – even after a natural or man-made disaster.

After suffering a massive earthquake in 1963, ancient Skopje, Macedonia, organized a worldwide competition to rethink its historic centre, with substantial backing from the International Union of Architects and the United Nations. Some of the city’s cultural monuments were preserved, but the winning architect, Japanese modernist Kenzo Tange, launched an assault on the finely grained city, imposing high-rise towers conceived as “city walls” on low-scale residential neighbourhoods – despite strong opposition from the local population.

“Such people,” it was reported, “could be re-educated to accept high-rise and medium-rise living.” Much of Tange’s linear city was built, although a local team of architects managed, fortunately, to protect some of the city’s riverside marketplace districts.

In Cologne, Germany, tragically flattened during the Second World War, a different kind of reconstruction has taken place. Postwar, its intimate medieval street pattern was rebuilt while urban motorways around the edge of the city were constructed.

Century later, US cherry blossoms coup for Japan

Posted on 19th March 2012 in The monuments of world

A century before cultural diplomacy became a buzzword for governments around the world, Japan scored a spectacular success — Washington‘s cherry blossoms, which have become one of the US capital’s top tourist attractions.

First planted in 1912 on central Washington‘s then barren Tidal Basin, the gifts from Japan each year now draw more than one million visitors who revel in the famously short-lived beauty of the blooming pink and white cherry petals.

Japan and the United States will mark the March 27 centennial of the first trees’ planting with a month-long festival, but crowds are already eagerly strolling around the trees as warm weather brings an early bloom.

Zack Zimko and Katie Head came to Washington from the eastern state of Delaware to soak up the atmosphere of the cherry blossoms, snapping pictures of each other as they admired the bloom near the towering Washington Monument.

“I had read about the cherry blossoms, but to come down here and actually see them, I was just blown away,” Zimko said. “Definitely the influence of Japan here is very strong.”

Daniel Seow of Melbourne, Australia, admiringly took pictures nearby, saying that the cherry blossoms looked like “snow lifted to the trees.”

“For me, it’s very Japanese. It’s the idea that the advent of spring ushers in the new and that beauty is fleeting,” he said.

Such reverence for one of Japan’s traditions is a dream-come-true in the modern era, in which many governments have multimillion-dollar budgets to promote their cultures overseas in hopes of increasing their “soft power.”

The Japanese have celebrated the cherry blossoms for centuries, with much of the country heading under the falling petals to reflect on life and enjoy copious amounts of drink — marking one key difference from Washington, where consumption of alcohol in a park is grounds for arrest.

Ichiro Fujisaki, Japan’s ambassador to the United States, said that the cherry blossoms’ draw was in their “brightness, beauty and brevity” — with most trees in bloom for little over a week.

“Cherry blossoms are a symbol of Japan’s spirit. At the same time, it’s a symbol of Japan-US friendship and I really think this will remain so,” Fujisaki said.

Japan planned to celebrate the centennial by enhancing the landscape of the Tidal Basin — now home to several major US monuments — including by building a zen rock garden that would offer another reminder of Japan.

But the Japanese instead will only announce the proposal during the centennial, as last year’s devastating earthquake and tsunami in northeastern Japan halted preparations.

Instead, Japan is bringing some of its best-selling musicians — including the all-girl J-Pop idol band AKB48 and R&B sensation Misia — for concerts to thank the United States for its major relief effort following the disaster.

Japan will also plant trees in dozens of other cities across the United States including New York, Los Angeles and Chicago.

When Japan gifted the trees a century earlier, it was also partly out of gratitude — for US mediation that ended the Russo-Japanese War. But the cherry blossoms did not get off to an auspicious start in Washington.

In 1910, US authorities burned an initial shipment of 2,000 trees on orders of the Department of Agriculture which ruled that they carried insects and disease. The then secretary of state, Philander Knox, tried to contain the fallout with a letter of regret to Japan over the “painful” decision.

But Japan two years later sent a new shipment of 3,020 trees, which were successfully planted in a ceremony led by the then first lady, Helen Herron Taft.

A new setback came when Japan and the United States went to war. In 1941, four trees were chopped down in suspected vandalism after Japan attacked Pearl Harbor. But Americans informally organized to protect the trees, which were referred to generically as “Oriental” trees until the end of World War II.

The cherry blossom festival has rapidly expanded in popularity since then. In 1965, Japan donated another 3,800 trees, which are known in Japanese as “sakura.”

Ann McClellan, author of the book “The Cherry Blossom Festival: Sakura Celebration,” said that visitors to Washington usually recalled the Japanese influence but that the trees also carried an “overarching message.”

“When I’m down by the Tidal Basin and I’m overhearing people’s conversations as they walk under the blooms, it’s often about how brief life is and how beautiful, and how you have to make the most of it,” McClellan said.

“That is certainly what the Japanese believe. But now we’ve all embraced it,” she said.

20 reasons to visit Manila

Posted on 17th March 2012 in The monuments of world
Sunset at manila bay Sunset at manila bay Sunset at Manila Bay, Manila. Photograph by Getty Images. SHD TRAVEL MARCH 18 20 REASONS MANILA. DO NOT ARCHIVE. 136263676.jpg

Recipe for spectacular sunsets … Manila Bay. Photo: Getty Images

1 Sunsets on Manila Bay

Manila is one of remarkably few cities in Asia that looks out to the west over the sea. Throw in one of the few plus sides of the Filipino capital’s pollution problem — the smoggy clouds send light and colour bouncing all over the place — and you’ve got a recipe for utterly spectacular sunsets.

2 The Coconut Palace

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Tourists on a horse drawn carriage passes the Manila Cathedral in Intramuros in Manila on August 22, 2010. Photograph by AFP. SHD TRAVEL MARCH 18 20 REASONS MANILA. 20 reasons 20 reasons 000_Hkg3939047.jpg

Historic heart … Intramuros. Photo: AFP

This tremendously gaudy monument to the excess of Ferdinand Marcos’s corrupt regime — and his shoe-loving wife Imelda’s penchant for showing off — is now the vice-president’s home and office. It was built using natural materials — including lots of coconuts — and intended as a guesthouse for Pope John Paul II. But the pontiff refused to stay there because it was too ostentatious, so D-List celebs such as George Hamilton were invited instead. Tours of this jaw-dropping monstrosity have to be booked at least a week in advance through the Office of the Vice-President (+63 2 832 6791, extension 119).

3 Jeepneys

They’re cramped, they’re gaudy and they’re often belching fumes but the jeepneys are an integral part of Manila’s character. These elongated, privately owned jeeps are painted in every colour the driver can get hold of and are adorned with religious or political slogans. The routes can be tricky to work out — you might not end up where you want to go — but hopping aboard one is the best way to get talking to the locals and dip into real life.

Colourful Banka fishing boats on Lake Taal with Taal volcano in the background. Photograph by Getty Images. SHD TRAVEL MARCH 18 20 REASONS MANILA. DO NOT ARCHIVE. 20 reasons 20 reasons 126377324.jpg

Easy day trip … Lake Taal. Photo: Getty Images

4 Karaoke

If the jeepneys hint at an exuberance that’s far detached from the more familiar Asian reserve, then the presence of a karaoke bar on every corner will confirm it. Bursting into song at any opportunity appears to be a widespread Filipino trait and, frankly, fighting it is futile. Go on in, pick up the microphone and get belting — the most popular song choices of the week are often listed on the walls.

5 Carlos Celdran

Far and away the city’s most popular guide, Carlos Celdran hosts theatrical tours around historic Intramuros that bring the often-tragic history of Manila to life. The “performance” goes through the Spanish, American, Japanese and postwar eras, throws in chaotic cross-town pedicab races and sets the emotional compass swinging from horror to laughter. celdrantours.blogspot.com.

6 San Agustin Church

One of the few buildings to survive World War II’s destruction of Intramuros, this is the oldest church in the Philippines. It dates from the 16th century, has bags of baroque flourish and numerous richly decorated shrines. You would struggle to find anywhere else quite like it in Asia and its exhibitions about the Spanish religious orders that founded the modern Philippines are engrossing.

7 Mall-hopping

If there’s one thing the good people of Manila like more than karaoke, it’s shopping malls. And should you be so inclined, there are plenty of bargains to be had. The gargantuan Mall of Asia is one of the biggest shopping centres in the world — the IMAX theatre and Olympic-size ice skating rink fit with plenty of room still to spare. But if it’s international luxury designer labels you’re after, the Greenbelt malls in Makati’s Ayala Centre are where you’ll find them at very attractive prices.

8 Intramuros

Adding to the Latin American- banana-republic-transported-to-Asia vibe is Intramuros, the historic heart of Manila. The area was turned into a fortified city within a city under Spanish rule and the Iberian influence on much of the architecture is immediately obvious. The walls are not always in the greatest state of repair but Fort Santiago at the far end is holding on. Its gardens, views over the river and cannon-laden bastions evoke the city’s rich history.

9 A very odd golf course

Between Intramuros and Rizal Park lies one of the world’s more absurd golf courses. Built into the former moat around the walled city, the Club Intramuros Golf Course offers the chance to mishit drives into the walls while traffic roars to the other side. Other hazards to avoid include a shrine tucked inside a grotto to the side of the fairway and the ambling families trying to cross the road.

10 Rizal Park

Rizal Park is the great meeting place of the Philippines. Anyone vaguely famous gets a tribute statue here eventually and it’s the default venue for big open-air concerts and political demonstrations. The Chinese Garden, Japanese Garden and National Museum are within its confines and worth a look but the real joy is in the people-watching. Rizal Park swarms with picnickers, kite-flyers, joggers and smooching couples.

11 Manila Hotel

Manila’s only true grand hotel drips with history. It was US General Douglas MacArthur’s home for six years and a browse through the archive room shows everyone from Rocky Marciano to Michael Jackson pressing the flesh here. The dark wood and tumbling chandeliers keep the vintage colonial vibe but the rooms have been tastefully modernised. More importantly, the Manila Hotel feels like the hub of the action — there’s always some kind of celebration, fireworks display or ceremony going on. www.manila-hotel.com.ph.

12 Adobo

Discounting the claims of the sickly and garish halo-halo desserts, the true Filipino national dish is adobo. There’s no correct way of doing it but the differences in interpretation are partly why it’s so tempting to order one every meal. As a general rule it’s pork or chicken in a garlicky vinegar and soy sauce but you won’t find two that taste the same. Sentro 1771, on the third level of Greenbelt 3, is a great place to try an inventive version of it in stylish surroundings.

13 Hobbit House

As gimmicks go, you would have to try hard to beat a Tolkien-themed bar and restaurant staffed and managed by “little people”. It might sound crass, and it’s unquestionably a tourist trap, but it’s actually one of Manila’s best places for a drink. This is largely because it has a consistently good line-up of live music. It’s the sort of place you visit out of tick-box curiosity and stay in because it’s rather enjoyable. hobbithousemanila.com.

14 Hotel H2O

If you prefer your hotels on the quirky side, the H2O is one great oddity. The Ocean Park complex’s inward-facing rooms have aquariums instead of windows. If you prefer your walls with clownfish swimming up and down them, this is perfect. Otherwise, get an outward-facing room so you can open the curtains to view sea lions performing for a packed arena. As for the sound and light show in the evening, you’re pretty much a part of it. hotelh2o.com.

15 Ayala Museum

Inside the Ayala Centre is easily the best museum in the Philippines. The Ayala Museum’s displays of gold and Filipino art are good but the star attractions are the 60 dioramas that tell the story of the country’s convoluted history. They go from prehistoric hunters, then through Chinese and Islamic influences to postwar independence. Then video presentations take over for the modern history and the horrors of the Marcos regime. The marriage of presentation and content is just right. ayalamuseum.org.

16 Pagsanjan

Another very popular day trip out of Manila heads to the Pagsanjan River. The canoe rides through the rapids from the Magdapio Falls are the big calling card, although they have almost become too popular for their own good. Expect a tourist-trap feel and a high hassle factor. That said, it is a beautiful spot and is one Vietnam War-film junkies should recognise. Many of the key scenes of Apocalypse Now were filmed here.

17 Corregidor

This island guarding the entrance to Manila Bay is best known for its World War II history. This was the last hold-out of US troops in 1942 and General MacArthur’s headquarters is among the most popular sights. Others include the barracks, gun batteries and tunnels but even for those with no interest in military history, the gorgeous views are worth the boat trip.

18 Taal Lake

An easy day trip to the south of Manila, Taal Lake is a lake within a volcano within a lake within a volcano. That’s less confusing when you arrive. From the top of the ridge of the Taal Volcano, you descend to the lake where locals use their fishing boats to ferry visitors to the island. The island — itself a highly tempestuous volcano — is home to an hour-long walking trail that takes you to another crater rim. From there, the views down to the interior lake are stunning. Touts will try to sell a ride on a knackered, scrawny horse but you’re best to resist their offers and tackle the track on your own. It starts at the top-left corner of the concrete basketball court.

19 Hilot massage

The traditional Filipino form of massage has spread around the world in recent years but it’s best experienced in the homeland. Hilot means healer in Filipino and practitioners insist there’s a lot more to it than a generic deep-tissue massage — intuitive healing is the much-parroted term. Most of the spas in Manila’s five-star hotels offer hilot.

20 American Cemetery and Memorial

Maintained by the American Battle Monuments Commission, this giant and utterly sobering cemetery is the largest of its kind in the world. Covering 62 hectares, 17,202 who died during World War II are buried here, while the names of 36,285 whose bodies were never found are etched on the memorial walls. It’s a peaceful sea of crosses and Jewish stars that sweeps in circles on the manicured grass, and it should bring a lump to any throat. tourism.gov.ph.

The writer was a guest of the Philippine Tourism Promotions Board.

Challenge to manage the welcome mat

Posted on 16th March 2012 in The monuments of world
<em>Illustration: Simon Letch</em>” />
<p><em>Illustration: Simon Letch</em></p>
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<p>In the hilltop Shwedagon Pagoda, whose gold-covered stupas gleam far across Rangoon, are countless statues and images of the Buddha, sitting, standing, reclining in timeless fashion.</p>
<p>One little shrine, drawing small crowds of worshippers, is different. Inside the gilded archway is a large disc of flashing, multicoloured, light-emitting diodes, a bit like a Japanese pachinko machine, surrounding a Buddha image.</p>
<p>What price culture? Is it to be preserved in classic fashion, or updated generation to generation? Is it to be kept for the people raised in it? Or marketed around the world?</p>
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<p>The questions arise because big money is attached. In many countries, the responsibility for tending to culture and cultural properties used to be attached to education ministries. It was part of nation-building. Now, it is often joined to the tourism ministry, to boost invisible exports.</p>
<p>States value relics and ruins if they prove lineage to a glorious past or assist in territorial claims. Only a year ago, Cambodians and Thais died in a clash over an 11th-century Hindu temple sitting on their border. In Jerusalem recently, I climbed around new excavations of what appears to be the remains of King David’s palace, just down from the Temple Mount.</p>
<p>But there is also big money in culture, thanks to the explosion of mass travel. For Burma, inward-looking and isolated for half a century but now opening up and losing its political stigma, tourism presents tantalising opportunities and dilemmas.</p>
<p>Recreational travel into Burma is now mainly filled by small groups of prosperous, well-educated older travellers from Western countries and Buddhist pilgrims from other parts of Asia. They are there for self-education, to savour the ”real” Burma before it is all spoiled by consumerism and mass tourism. There are some nice resorts, but for most, comfort and luxury is not the drawcard.</p>
<p>All that could be about to change. Burmese officials see the 350,000 to 400,000 arrivals last year growing to 2 million or 3 million a year over the next decade. Damian Evans, who directs Sydney University’s archaeology project at Siem Reap in Cambodia, near the Angkor Wat temples, thinks they are ”radically underestimating” the potential growth.</p>
<p>”Thailand had 20 million tourists last year, double the number of 10 years ago,” Evans said. ”Myanmar [the official name of Burma] has everything that Thailand has, and better in many respects. For example, as cultural sites go, there is nothing in Thailand to rival Bagan.</p>
<p>”It also has a lot of things that Thailand doesn’t – snow-capped mountains, the finest intact colonial streetscapes in all of south-east Asia, vast undisturbed wilderness areas, and is a great living storehouse of ancient south-east Asian cultural practices and traditions – such as lost-wax bronze casting of Buddha images, and hand-pounded gold leaf production – that have been lost, forgotten, interrupted or diluted elsewhere.</p>
<p>”Unfortunately, it is these less tangible aspects of Myanmar’s cultural heritage that are most threatened by a mass influx of tourists. The one thing that Thailand has that Myanmar doesn’t have (and presumably won’t have), on any scale, is sex tourism, which I think is the one major variable that will potentially differentiate tourism in the two countries.”</p>
<p>So far, the new government of President Thein Sein, result of the Burmese military’s withdrawal from direct political control, seems to be thinking mostly about trade opportunities in physical goods that arise from the country’s position at the junction of China, India and south-east Asia.</p>
<p>But Evans points to a building human flow across borders, too. ”What we’re seeing in China and increasingly India is the emergence of a vast demographic of leisure travellers,” he said. ”People don’t fully understand the implications of this, which will be a mass movement of people over the landscape and across borders that is completely unparalleled in all of human history.</p>
<p>”Myanmar is perfectly positioned and exceptionally well endowed with the resources to take advantage of this phenomenon, and if the regime is very serious about reform and opening up to the outside world, then within a decade, or a decade and a half, tourist numbers could easily rival those of Thailand.”</p>
<p>How fast it can happen is shown at Siem Reap. It used to be a collection of quiet little fishing and farming villages. In 10 years it has become a boomtown with a six-figure population. It had only a couple of international standard hotels to cater for visitors to Angkor Wat. Now it has more than 100.</p>
<p>The tourism explosion initially overwhelmed Cambodian authorities with new problems, including transport access and communications, urban planning, care of the monuments, and sustainable use of water resources.</p>
<p>The Cambodians have been wise enough to accept outside expertise, channelled through the Angkor International Co-ordinating Committee chaired by UNESCO, on what research and restoration should be allowed, any urgent interventions, and how visits should be managed.</p>
<p>It is a possible model for Bagan, the site of an ancient city near Mandalay where more than 2000 temples and pagodas still dot a semi-forested plain, that is the Angkor Wat of Burma in terms of tourist attraction.</p>
<p>Even before Burma really opens up there has been conflict over local restoration work, often undertaken in the Buddhist way to gain merit for the next life, that doesn’t preserve the original character of the building. But if Burmese did this, like Shwedagon’s flashing light Buddha, does this make it less authentic?</p>
<p>A previous military regime built a concrete viewing tower, regarded as an eyesore unless you happened to be looking out from it.</p>
<p>But that is how many Parisians saw the Eiffel Tower.</p>
<p>Mass tourism into Burma still has many barriers. Its two main airports have limited capacity. Its big hotels tend to be owned by tycoons who are still on international sanctions lists. Its visas are relatively harder to get. Many would-be visitors worry about sending the wrong message on political reform.</p>
<p>Its government is still in a position to choose what kind of tourism it will foster. ”The only question is whether Myanmar wants to sell its soul in achieving [big] numbers, or whether it should think seriously of adopting some form of the Botswana or Bhutan model for limiting tourism and its impact,” said Evans.</p>
<p>”Personally I think the financial lure of the churn-and-burn model of mass east Asian package tourism will prove irresistible in Myanmar, as it has at Angkor, and will raise a whole series of issues to do with sustainability, impact on the environment, and heritage preservation.”</p>
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Critic's Notebook: Rethinking memorials in aftermath of Japan tsunami

Posted on 15th March 2012 in The monuments of world

Reporting from Ishinomaki, Japan ——

“You are about to see something strange and very memorable,” architect Yoshihiro Horii told me as we were driving near the waterfront in Ishinomaki, a city of 160,000 people in northeastern Japan that was heavily damaged by the earthquake and tsunami last March 11.

As his wife, a fellow architect named Shoko Fukuya, steered the car over the crest of a hill, we caught a glimpse of what he was talking about: a giant red metal cylinder, 35 feet high and dramatically mangled by the force of the tsunami, sitting right in the median, with traffic zooming by on both sides.

The three of us parked the car and climbed out to inspect this odd piece of apocalyptic detritus, which the tsunami carried nearly 1,000 feet from Ishinomaki’s port. It turned out to be a fish-oil tank that used to stand outside the offices of Kinoya, a seafood processing company. Painted years ago to resemble a can of whale meat, it was once a popular backdrop for photos by visitors to the company.

PHOTOS: Quake people

In its crumpled form and new location, the tank — which locals simply call “the big can” — has become the object of intense curiosity in this part of Japan, which is struggling to recover from the disaster. It may also suggest an inventive way for Japan to think about the process of designing memorials and monuments to the estimated 19,000 people killed.

The central government in Tokyo is likely to commission a national March 11 memorial; Arahama Beach, a badly flooded coastal section of Sendai, the only large city in the region, is sometimes mentioned as a potential site. Whoever is chosen to design it will be able to draw on a rich legacy of memorials in Japanese architecture, which includes Kenzo Tange’s spare reinforced-concrete 1955 monument to nuclear destruction in Hiroshima.

But the sheer scope of the 2011 disaster and the diversity of the cities and villages it ravaged means that a single monument may not be sufficient, or appropriate. And the aesthetic force of the can suggests that officials should consider pairing any official monument with a network of smaller, or less formal, found memorials.

PHOTOS: Scenes of disaster

As we stood gaping at the giant can, Horii said that a group of artists has circulated a petition asking the city government of Ishinomaki to preserve it and keep it where it is. Clearly if it is turned into a permanent monument the city will have to devise a better way for visitors to reach it; parking quickly and dashing across two lanes of traffic, as we did, doesn’t exactly put one in a reflective and contemplative mood.

But after writing about the hugely complicated process of creating a memorial at the World Trade Center site, at the Oklahoma City federal building and elsewhere — to say nothing of the controversy now swirling over Frank Gehry’s plans for a Dwight D. Eisenhower Memorial just off the Mall in Washington, D.C. — it seems to me there’s something to be said for any effort to re-imagine this eternally fraught corner of design practice.

Especially in the U.S., memorial design stands at an awkward and uncertain moment. Gehry’s Eisenhower Memorial has become a punching bag in the press, with classically minded architects as well as members of Eisenhower’s family criticizing it for what they see as an insufficiently somber attitude toward both architectural and presidential history. A congressional subcommittee plans to hold a hearing on the memorial next week.

The National September 11 Memorial by Michael Arad and Peter Walker at the World Trade Center, which opened in September, has been a staggeringly expensive undertaking whatever you make of its design. The memorial and adjacent museum, set to open next year, will cost a combined $700 million, with operating costs adding an additional $60 million to $100 million each year. Entering the complex means navigating a series of security checkpoints more thorough than the ones you find in many airports.

Then there is the recently completed Martin Luther King Jr. Memorial in Washington. A collaboration between Chinese sculptor Lei Yixin and ROMA Design Group, it not only took a King quote out of context — requiring it to be re-carved — but seems to draw its design inspiration from the most bloated, inflexible sort of Socialist Realism.

By contrast, the mangled red can in Ishinomaki eludes both bombast and easy readings. The way it manages to suggest two very different scales simultaneously — the quotidian scale of the supermarket shelf and the stunning strength of the tsunami — gives it some Pop art shadings and makes it even more artistically meaningful than, say, the twisted steel beams from the World Trade Center that will go on display at the Sept. 11 museum.

And other candidates for found memorials, it turns out, exist all over the Tohoku region of northeast Japan. In Onagawa, three separate buildings lie hauntingly on their sides in a part of the city otherwise left bare by the tsunami. The largest of the three, a four-story building wrenched from its foundations by the storm surge and dumped 10 yards or so from its concrete foundation, could make a powerful statement about the way the disaster has thoroughly upended life in this part of Japan.

To be effective, these found monuments will have to be framed in the right way, with signage and landscaping taking on a bigger burden than they do in a typical memorial. There is also a risk that once set officially apart from their contexts the objects may lose some of their strange and surprising visual power.

But given how overpriced and underwhelming so many traditional memorials have turned out to be in recent years, that may be a risk worth taking.

christopher.hawthorne@latimes.com

Big guns from the battleship Missouri find new homes

Posted on 11th March 2012 in The monuments of world

Reporting from Portsmouth, Va.—

For about 20 years, gun barrels of the mighty battleship Missouri have sat in silence at the St. Julien’s Creek Annex of Norfolk Naval Shipyard.

They have seen better days.

They stood as silent witnesses on Sept. 2, 1945, when Japanese leaders walked onto the deck of the Missouri and formally surrendered to end World War II. Months earlier, the guns helped hasten the war’s end by hurling 2,700-pound shells onto the islands of Iwo Jima and Okinawa.

This month, the massive gun barrels — no longer needed in an age of guided missiles and armed drones — began a second life more in keeping with their storied past.

Organizations from Virginia, Delaware and Arizona plan to display a Missouri barrel as a monument to history. But first, someone has to move them.

Lockwood Brothers of Hampton, Va., was hired for the job. A crew showed up Wednesday with a heavy-lift crane. Each barrel is 16 inches in diameter and about 68 feet long and weighs about 118 tons.

“In the regular course of business, we move transformers, generators, power plants,” said Dan Clark, project manager for Lockwood. “To be involved in something like this with the Navy that has historical significance, it’s exciting for our company.”

Perhaps the only people more excited were the folks from Delaware and Arizona who came to witness the transfer onto long flatbed trailers.

In Delaware, the Fort Miles Historical Assn. has been searching for a 16-inch gun for some time, said Harry Winn, a board member. The same type of gun was installed at Ft. Miles during World War II to guard passage along the Delaware River to industrial sites and fuel depots.

“There were nine different batteries at Ft. Miles,” Winn said. “We’ve been trying to get a 16-inch gun for a couple of years, and now we have one — in our sights, so to speak.”

The barrel going to Delaware is labeled #371; the Japanese delegation passed by it on their way to sign the Instrument of Surrender.

The Virginia site is at Cape Charles on the Eastern Shore, controlled by the state Department of Game and Inland Fisheries.

Jim Drake, Arizona’s deputy secretary of state, said the third Missouri barrel would complete a World War II memorial at the state Capitol in Phoenix.

The monument will be flanked on one side by the Missouri barrel and on the other by a 14-inch barrel from the battleship Arizona. It was taken off the ship before its sinking at Pearl Harbor in 1941.

Drake said the Arizona barrel would represent the beginning of the war, and the Missouri barrel its end.

hlessig@dailypress.com

An honor for aging heroes

Posted on 23rd February 2012 in The monuments of world

Joseph McAndrews wasn’t a year past graduating from Washington High School when he got his draft notice in the middle of World War II.

He reported for duty Jan. 3, 1943. He was 19 years old. His body was vigorous and poised for action. He came home from the war, but missing a piece of himself.

Now 88, McAndrews is among the aging local veterans, especially those from the “Greatest Generation,” hoping to make it to Washington, D.C., to see for themselves the national monument honoring their heroism.

And the newly formed organization Indy Honor Flight is working to make sure McAndrews and others have that opportunity — before it’s too late.

McAndrews and his wife, Edna, live at Westside Garden Plaza on the city’s Far Westside. His medals, including a Purple Heart, are modestly displayed in a glass-covered box on a wall in their small apartment. The medals, ribbons and certificates are reminders of the nation’s history and of McAndrews’ honor.

Quickly sent off to the Pacific Theater, the young infantryman was posted in Australia and New Guinea before winding up in the Philippines, battling the Japanese.

And for him, that’s where the war ended. He thinks it was 1944; at 88, the Westside resident sometimes has trouble with details like that.

But other memories remain vivid. Always. He recounts what happened in an understated way, almost with amusement.

“I was the lead scout one time, and we were marching out there for eight days. . . . A Japanese sniper got me in the hip and then got me in the elbow. . . . And I yelled at him, ‘You got me twice! That’s enough!’ And he pointed his rifle at the ground, and he didn’t shoot me again. . . . And I got hold of my arm and went running down the hill to the aid station, and they put me on a litter.

“After that, I went to sleep, and I didn’t wake up for quite a while.”

McAndrews was taken from hospital to hospital, from the Philippines to Hawaii to San Francisco and, ultimately, to a military hospital in Salt Lake City, Utah. Doctors could not save his left arm.

After nine months of medical treatment, he arrived home in Indianapolis, his mother welcoming him at the door with a big hug.

“Of course, I didn’t have an arm, but I did the best I could.”

Over the years, McAndrews married Edna, they had two children and now enjoy talking about their four grandchildren. They made a future and live in the present, but McAndrews acknowledges he’d like to make that trip to Washington to pay homage to the past.

“I like the United States and the people in it, and especially those that fought for it. I think we’re a great people, really, and I’d like to honor anyone that has anything to do with it.”

Several of McAndrews’ neighbors, fellow residents at Westside Garden Plaza, had a little something to do with it. Veterans of World War II and the Korean conflict, they are getting older and confronting health issues. Some already are no longer up to a cross-country plane trip, but others still hope to make that trip to the nation’s capital, to see for themselves the monuments to their own contributions and the sacrifices of others.

Paul Miller, 82, enlisted in the Navy on June 9, 1949, received his diploma from Washington High School a few days later, on June 12, and reported to boot camp on June 15.

He remembers every minute of his Navy active-duty service: three years, nine months, 26 days and 10 hours.

However, after being out for a while, he enlisted in the Navy Reserve and served additional time to round out 20 years total.

Miller has been to Washington to see the Korean War Veterans Memorial, and was moved by Arlington National Cemetery. Although he wasn’t old enough to do his military service during World War II, Miller understood what was going on — and to appreciate the significance, then and now.

“It’s important to show the kids that are living now, and the babies that are being born and going to grow up in the next 10, 20, 30 years . . . what their ancestors did,” he said.

Russell Southard, 81, was drafted into the Army in 1954, and, although he served entirely in the United States, it wasn’t for a lack of will.

A specialist in the Signal Corps, Southard was schooled in communications technology and had a top-secret clearance. His unit, stationed at Fort Benning, Ga., was more than willing to deploy, he said — but the Army seemed more interested in having them demonstrate the newest technological advances to touring congressmen, Southard recalled.

Now battling leukemia, Southard said he doesn’t think he could travel to Washington because of his health problems.

Harry Macy, 92, graduated from Michigan State University in June 1941 and reported for duty in the Army as a lieutenant a month later.

“That would have been for a year, unless the president directed otherwise. And of course, Pearl Harbor happened,” he said.

Macy was shipped to the Pacific Theater, in some of the same locations that McAndrews would have been. They didn’t know each other, but their paths might have crossed.

Macy saw many a battle and fighting, on ships and on land. He skims through those episodes, alluding to explosions and close calls but summing it up with droll understatement.

“It was a pretty rough day,” he said of one battle.

Macy recalled hearing news of the nuclear bombs dropped on Japanese cities, ending the war.

“I just remember the day vividly, when I heard they had dropped the bomb in Japan. And then they dropped another one. And boy, what a load it was off my back.”

At his age, Macy said, he doesn’t plan to travel to Washington.

Annis Dimmitt, 90, was raring to go to war — but as a woman, her options were limited.

A brother was serving in the Navy and stationed at Pearl Harbor, Hawaii, when Japan attacked on Dec. 7, 1941. Her brother survived the attack, and Dimmitt’s patriotic and family loyalties were stirred up.

“That’s really what caused me to go into service, but the Army didn’t send women over there,” she said.

She signed up in April 1942, serving in what was first the Women’s Army Auxiliary Corps. About a year later, that became the full-status Women’s Army Corps.

Dimmitt worked in record-keeping and as a clerk, and eventually became a teletype operator. She served three and a half years, and as a civilian, she worked in the Veterans Administration hospital system until retiring in 1982.

Dimmitt wants to make that trip to Washington. She wants to see her monument.

“Yes, I want to see it, because I served in the war, and I want to see everything that’s part of it.”

Call Star reporter Diana Penner at (317) 444-6249.