Best Spring Break Stay-cations In Philadelphia

Posted on 17th March 2012 in The monuments of world
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Activities, Evansburg State Park, Fairmount Park, Heinz National Wilderness Refuge, Longwood Gardens, nature, Philadelphia, Philadelphia vacation, Spring Break, staycation, Travel & Outdoors, Valley Forge National Historic Park, Valley Green

There’s a saying that sometimes, we’re sitting on our own diamonds. In this case, it’s true. There are many hidden gems around the Philadelphia area that can make staying around town for spring break a great way to vacation. Whether it’s discovering historic spots or trekking through some of the most beautiful countryside in the country, a Philly area stay-cation may be just what you’re looking for this spring.

longwood Best Spring Break Stay cations In Philadelphia

(Credit: www.longwoodgardens.com)

Longwood Gardens
1001 Longwood Rd
Kennett Square, PA 19348
(610) 388-1000
www.longwoodgardens.org

Price: Adults – $18, Seniors (ages 62 and up) – $15, Students (ages 5-18) or any age with valid student ID – $8, Children (ages 4 and under) – Free
Hours: Click here for hours

Nothing says spring better than flowers! Longwood Gardens is known around the world and is located only about 30 minutes from Philadelphia. Its four acre conservatory features a spectacular display of orchids from around the world, as well as an International Orchid Show. Festivities at the gardens also include concerts from international artists and dancers. Spring tulips and marigolds bloom as colorfully at Longwood Gardens as they do anywhere in the world.

valleyforge Best Spring Break Stay cations In Philadelphia

credit: www.nps.gov/vafo

Valley Forge National Historic Park
1400 N Outer Line Dr
King of Prussia, PA 19406
(610) 783-1099
www.nps.gov

Price: Park access is free
Hours: Daily, 7 a.m. to sunset

Before many of us can even begin to imagine, there was an encampment of dedicated patriots at Valley Forge. What better place to connect with the birth of America than by exploring more than 3,500 acres of bluffs, trails and monuments? This historic stay-cation adventure will keep you moving by bike, on foot or even by car as you retrace the history of George Washington and his troops. The park also links the Schuylkill River towpath to the Horse Shoe Trail, allowing Philadelphia to connect to the Appalachian Trail. This adventure will bring you eye to eye with native wildlife as well as a tall grass meadow and dense forested wetlands.

Related: Spandex Optional: Top Cycle Shops In Philadelphia

 Best Spring Break Stay cations In Philadelphia

Photo Credit: fairmountpark.org

Fairmount Park at Valley Green
Valley Green Rd at Wissahickon
Philadelphia, PA 19128
(215) 247-1730
www.fairmountpark.org

Price: free
Hours: sunrise – sunset

Philadelphia’s Fairmount Park is the largest big city park in the world, stretching from Center City to the Northwestern suburbs. The park features a gorge with the Wissahickon Creek at its base. There are hundreds of trails that attract mountain bikers from everywhere. Valley Green is located in the heart of Fairmount Park and is where the historic Valley Green Inn is found. A spring stay-cation within Fairmount Park will provide countless activities, including exploring the mysterious Cave of Kelpius, touring Centennial Hall and learning American history at Mom Rinker’s Rock.

Evansburg State Park
851 May Hall Rd
Collegeville, PA 19426
(610) 409-1150
www.dcnr.state.

Price: free
Hours: sunrise – sunset

Evansburg State Park is a local secret in central Montgomery County that’s situated between Skippack and Collegeville. The Skippack Creek flows through the center of the park and offers trout and bass fishing. There’s even a fishing dock along Lewis Road where you can drop a line. This stay-cation provides a hiking kaleidoscope made up of croplands, valleys and forests. There are four softball fields, a large barbecue pavilion and horseback riding stables. The park is also home to scores of blue jays and pheasants, so keep your eyes peeled.

Heinz National Wilderness Refuge
8601 Lindbergh Blvd
Philadelphia, PA 19153
(215) 365-3118
www.fws.gov

Price: free
Hours: sunrise to sunset

The Heinz Refuge was established in an effort to protect the remaining tidal marsh in Philadelphia and was named after the late Pennsylvania Senator John Heinz. The refuge boasts more than 10 miles of trails, and biking is permitted on the main trails (but not on wood foot trails). The wildlife observation platform provides visitors with a stunning panorama and close-up views of wildlife that ranges from muskrats to bald eagles. The Heinz Refuge is also home to the Cusano Environmental Educational Center, which educates visitors on preserving the natural world in an urban center.

Related: Where To See Bald Eagles In Philadelphia

Darren Hunter is an author, lecturer, and freelancer covering travel and outdoors around Philadelphia. His third book, The Exile Project, was set in Philadelphia’s Fairmount Park at Valley Green. His work can be found at Examiner.com.

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In Section 60, a silent search for meaning

Posted on 13th March 2012 in The monuments of world

A few minutes after Obama spoke those words, I crossed the Potomac to visit with some of those who have already come home, under circumstances nobody wanted. After a decade of wars, more than 800 of them now rest in Arlington National Cemetery.

Most of them are in Section 60, where I counted 21 rows of headstones of the Iraq and Afghanistan war dead, beginning with Staff Sgt. Brian Craig, killed in Kandahar in April 2002. On Tuesday afternoon, Section 60 got its newest resident, 23-year-old Sgt. William Stacey, killed on foot patrol on his fourth deployment to Afghanistan.

They buried him — near a young magnolia tree that will shade his headstone in future years — with the too-familiar rituals: white horses, wooden caisson, marching platoon, rifle volleys, Taps. There were the tearful parents, the grief-stricken fiancee, the teenage sister holding flowers and the cremated remains of a young man who left behind an open-in-case-of-death letter.

“My death did not change the world; it may be tough for you to justify its meaning at all,” he wrote. “But there is a greater meaning to it.”

Washington is debating that greater meaning and whether all the trouble — the civilian killings, the Koran burnings, the feckless Karzai government — justify continued fighting in Afghanistan even though al-Qaeda has been routed and public opinion on the conflict has soured. There’s no good answer, but no policymaker should make a decision about the war without strolling through Section 60. Its rows tell the story of this generation’s wars: A few headstones from Afghanistan quickly yield to monuments mostly from Iraq; then, toward the end, the Afghanistan dead return.

Among stones topped by crosses, Stars of David and the occasional crescent, a makeshift museum has been built by friends and family of the fallen. A helium balloon boasting “30” floated above the tombstone of Thomas J. Brown, whose 30th birthday would have been Tuesday; he died in 2008 in Iraq, and his grave had a fresh arrangement of pink roses, yellow daisies and white gladioluses, with a note: “Miss you. Love always, Mom.” A photo taped to the back of his headstone showed him smiling in his combat helmet two days before his death.

Arlington authorities, perhaps recognizing the significance of Section 60 and its young dead, have exempted the graves from their policy against decorations. On Tuesday, there were purple Mardi Gras beads, crosses fashioned from toothpicks, laminated photos, heart stickers, decorative stones, pinwheels, plush toys, a can of chewing tobacco, a marathon finisher’s medal, a plastic leprechaun hat, even a cat-shaped yard ornament. A red T-shirt at one grave said, “R.I.P. Big Mac.” A seashell was inscribed: “To my big brother. Love, Your little sister XOXO.”

A prayer to Joan of Arc decorated the grave of a young woman killed in Iraq. On the stone of Sgt. Karl Campbell, an Army ranger who fell in 2010 at age 34, is a school photo of his son, missing a front tooth, and a letter in a plastic bag, to “my best friend always.”

Among the most heartbreaking is the stone of Spec. Douglas Jay Green, killed in Afghanistan in August at age 23. A Valentine’s Day card had a quotation from Hermann Hesse, “If I know what love is, it is because of you,” and a handwritten message: “Doug, This year you would have been home for Valentine’s Day. . . . But I have to remind myself that ‘could haves’ and ‘would haves’ were never supposed to be.”

Nearby, an older couple sat on fresh sod, grieving over a soldier buried so recently there was no headstone. They stepped aside as the caisson approached with Sgt. Stacey’s remains. The young man, the son of college professors, was to have returned to Camp Pendleton by now, his overseas deployments done. He planned to attend a Marine Corps ball in April with his fiancee.

Instead, she joined Stacey’s sister and parents in accepting folded flags Tuesday afternoon from a sergeant major on bended knee. Among those paying their respects were several young Marines, one in a wheelchair.

In the letter to his family, Stacey wrote of his service: “If my life buys the safety of a child who will one day change this world, then I know that it was all worth it.”

The nation must soon decide whether Stacey’s hope remains true.

danamilbank@washpost.com

Names of African American veterans omitted from Palmetto World War I memorial

Posted on 12th March 2012 in The monuments of world

PALMETTO — James Bryan is not on the list. Neither is Jessie Hamilton, nor Solomon May.

All three were honorably discharged after serving in World War I. All three lived or were born in Palmetto.

But their names are not included in a World War I memorial plaque at Riverside Park honoring Palmetto-area veterans.

The Florida Memory, which archives state records, has 160 World War I service cards of Palmetto residents and natives who enlisted or were inducted for service. Of those 160, 55 people are categorized as “colored,” including Bryan, Hamilton, and May.

“There are a number of World War I veterans that were not put on the plaque,” said Jeff Burton, director of the city’s Community Redevelopment Agency. “We are working to make sure that when Sutton Park is under construction we include some kind of remembrance to those names. It’s a matter of correcting something from the past.”

The agency is planning about $1.3 million in renovations at Sutton Park over the next four years. The first phase of the renovations, expected to be completed by July 4, includes a new bandstand, new lighting and

sidewalks, said Burton.

Two veterans memorial monuments located at Riverside Park near the Green Bridge will eventually be moved to Sutton Park.

One is the World War I memorial, constructed shortly after the war, 1914-1918, which lists only 86 names. The other monument, constructed in 1993, honors veterans from all wars and all branches of service, Burton said.

Burton said the agency was planning on creating a new plaque that would include the 55 names of African Americans and anyone else who served during World War I but was not listed on the original memorial.

“It’s an injustice and needs to be corrected,” said Palmetto Mayor Shirley Groover Bryant. “It’s saddening. I believe in respecting and appreciating the veterans, it’s sad that they were left out and not honored for their commitment to the U.S. It’s an injustice that has gone on too long.”

Groover Bryant said the city commission had not had a public meeting to discuss the missing names, but said she expected the support of the council in adding the names.

For many years, the World War I memorial was located at the site of the old Palmetto Elementary School, Burton said.

Sutton Park will be a more suitable spot for the memorials, he said.

“Sutton Park in Palmetto is a tribute to veterans,” said Burton.

In 1982, Sutton Park was dedicated in honor of Ben Sutton, a Palmetto local who served and died in the Vietnam War, said Merab Favorite, public relations officer for the redevelopment agency.

Favorite said she found out about the missing names and informed city officials after researching for her first book, “Palmetto: Images of America Series.”

She said the missing names were “a result of the time period.”

The memorial built in 1993 has an inscription that reads: “A nation that honors its veterans is a nation dedicated to the preservation of freedom won by the sacrifice of life itself.”

Miriam Valverde, Herald reporter, can be reached at 941-745-7024. Follow on Twitter @MiriamValverde.

Newcomers' lead in sport's heartland puts them on road for world title

Posted on 8th March 2012 in The monuments of world
Coming to the boil ... Matt Goss.

Coming to the boil … Matt Goss. Photo: Getty Images

The historic stage win in Europe by GreenEDGE in the Tirreno-Adriatico race in Italy has given weight to the Australian team’s belief in one of its biggest goals of the year: to win the inaugural trade team world championship at the Road World Championships at Limburg, in the Netherlands in September.

GreenEDGE have often spoken of their ambitions in the upcoming European spring one-day classics and stages in tours, especially the Giro d’Italia, Tour de France and Vuelta a Espana.

Less known is their team time trial world title ambition. After claiming their first European win in Wednesday’s stage one 16.9 kilometre team time trial in Tirreno-Adriatico, a world title in the same discipline would be a superb bookend to their first year in cycling’s first division.

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Wednesday’s distance was far less than the 53.2 kilometres of the world title, but in a season when there are only a handful of team time trials it was a valuable opportunity not to be wasted – nor was it.

”When you do a team time trial, any opportunity to rehearse the big one – and the big one for us is the world championship – is an opportunity to look at riders and technique,” GreenEDGE team general manager Shayne Bannan said.

There could not have been a more fitting way for the world tour newcomers to claim their first win in the heartland of international cycling than in a team time trial.

They even won by as much as 17 seconds over the US Garmin-Barracuda and RadioShack-Nissan teams and 23 seconds over third-placed British rivals Team Sky.

It was a big improvement for GreenEDGE on their first team time trial, over 11.3 kilometres at the Tour of Qatar where standard bikes were used by all teams, rather than the aerodynamic equipment they raced with on Wednesday, and they finished seventh.

Their win in this world tour event also allowed the eight-man team to celebrate on the podium together rather than in a normal road stage when one rider is the winner.

Yet due to their win in the team time trial, where times are taken off the fifth-placed rider in the team, a GreenEDGE rider also took the overall race leader’s blue jersey.

That went to Tasmanian Matt Goss, their first rider across the line, who has been under scrutiny in the lead up to the Milan-San Remo classic on March 17.

Goss became the first Australian to win Milan-San Remo – the first of cycling’s five monuments – last year. In this week’s team time trial Goss showed that he is coming to the boil when it matters.

But the win was not just about Goss, who was followed across the line by Canadian Svein Tuft, Dutchman Sebastian Langeveld, and Australians Stuart O’Grady and Cameron Meyer – whose time of 18 minutes 41 seconds became the team’s winning time as he was the fifth finisher.

It was for the entire team that included Australian Baden Cooke (at 5s), and powerhouses Dutchman Jens Mouris (at 20s) and Lithuanian Tomas Vaitkus (at 30s) whose early efforts helped GreenEDGE get the fast start they needed and got before finishing so strongly to win.

Which six riders race for GreenEDGE in the world titles is some way from being decided. But after Wednesday’s win, the Australian team has every reason to believe they will be in the hunt.

Twitter: @rupertguinness

Justin Shubow: Let's Not Politicize the Eisenhower Memorial

Posted on 1st March 2012 in The monuments of world

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My house is my castle: the best and worst in village architecture

Posted on 1st March 2012 in The monuments of world

You may know the feeling – you return to your native village after a long absence and come across an eyesore – a building that screams “money, power and influence” and sticks out like a sore thumb from its surroundings. That is the kind of building that architect and photographer Jan Kruml likens to a flashing gold tooth.

Photo: Jan KrumlPhoto: Jan Kruml Jan Kruml has spent many years of his life documenting the transformation of Czech villages and has done much to make people realize the importance of preserving the cultural and architectural heritage handed down by their forefathers. He has travelled the country back and forth documenting the transformation of streets, town squares and churches and has an impressive collection of the best and worst examples of human activity in this respect. Some appear in his film –Vesničko má prestavovaná – My reconstructed little village (a play on the title of Jiří Menzel’s film hit My sweet little village) others went to make up his book Village architecture 2011. I asked Jan Kruml how he came to be involved in this work.

“I guess it all stems from the fact that I was born in the country. Some of my ancestors were farmers, my father was a village teacher. And what you get handed down in your genes and absorb during your youth and childhood stays with you throughout your life. But what motivated me most was this programme Dorferneuerung –village restoration in Austria and Germany – which we learnt about still under communism. I was completely overwhelmed by its approach. In contract to the communist uniformity where people were not perceived as individuals but as a mass this approach emphasized that every village was special, that every village was made up of individuals who were important and who all had something different to offer. The democratic approach to people was an eye-opener for me in view of what we were used to –the fact that people were respected, listened to and could take part in shaping their village.”

Jan Kruml, photo: Czech TelevisionJan Kruml, photo: Czech Television Jan Kruml’s interest in preserving the historic integrity of villages dates back to the communist days, although back then his work involved monitoring the situation more than anything else. Soon after the fall of communism he published the first translations of the Dorferneuerung programme and helped to get it implemented in this country as well. He says the communist years left a sorry mark not just on villages but on people’s thinking.

“The communist ideology was that the boundaries between country life and city life should slowly be erased. Everything old was regarded as outdated and surpassed and there was an accent on modern materials and designs. As a result precious old buildings, houses, churches and such, were allowed to fall into disrepair and many people accepted the thought that what was old was not worth preserving or maintaining, which is a great pity. Today you see villages where small picturesque houses were torn down and replaced by luxury villas which is unfortunate because it destroys the character of the village, what we call its genius loci.”

Photo: Jan KrumlPhoto: Jan Kruml After the fall of communism much could have been salvaged and modernized so as not to interfere with the historic character of the given place. And in many instances this was done. But equally so, many people who earned money and did not value “the old” started building their dream homes – tasteless replicas of castles, Spanish haciendas and buildings they had seen somewhere on their travels. After years of suffering a shortage of everything, the market offered every possible material and every possible accessory in a wide variety of shapes and colours and people’s imagination often knew no bounds. These buildings can be found in many a town or village and show no respect for their surroundings or neighbours. Jan Kruml again:

“In my view the operational word here is “harmony”. If you are building a house somewhere or reconstructing one then you need to look at the surroundings and build something that will add to the charm of the given place rather than deter from it. This should be uppermost in the mind of the owner, the architect but also the mayor because every village, every community is in a way unique.”

Photo: Jan KrumlPhoto: Jan Kruml In addition to making films, writing and lecturing on the issue Jan Kruml initiated a nation-wide competition called “Village of the Year” where the criteria are not just preservation of the historical character of a village but relate to environmentally-friendly projects, cultural activities and social life. Mr. Kruml says that despite the eyesores, he is not entirely pessimistic in this respect.

“There is a will to conserve historical monuments. Hundreds of villages have embraced the idea of preserving their cultural and architectural legacy within the village renovation programme I spoke about. And the Village of the Year competition has shown us that there are plenty of local patriots who have respect for this legacy and are determined to preserve it and take it further. But unfortunately there are also those who say “ it’s my money and I’ll build what I like with it. This is a democracy, right? ” And they have no consideration for the fact that this form of exhibitionism not only reflects badly on them, but that it degrades the whole surrounding environment.”

Photo: Jan KrumlPhoto: Jan Kruml Money, power and a lack of respect for the given community all contribute to the fact that structures that make one cringe have been mushrooming all around the country. How is it possible that the local authorities do not put their foot down even in the most offensive cases? Jan Kruml again:

“Everyone has a share in this. The local construction authority gives the green light to a project stamped by an authorized architect –so the architect in question carries his share of the blame as well. But to be fair – the construction office does not always see the end result. Often construction work takes a different turn, plans are slightly revised and the building ends up looking very different. And sometimes people construct it without a permit and are ready to pay a fine later. We all know about some of the bizarre constructions that have grown up around Karlovy Vary. Some buildings are out of this world. And the craving to have something different – be it a villa from Provence or something more exotic – well some people have that.”

Photo: Jan KrumlPhoto: Jan Kruml Jan Kruml’s travels have taken him to many parts of Europe and he says he’s envious of the sights he sees in Austria, Switzerland or Great Britain where people show ingenuity and sensitivity in preserving the unique character of their country houses –right down to their front gardens or back yards. He says that there is much Czechs could learn from viewing those examples, but transplanting an attitude is not easy.

“We are all trying. Both I and my colleagues from the Society for village renovation are publishing, talking to the media and cooperating with schools to broadcast the message. I think that education in this respect should start at an early age and am hoping that if teachers make an effort and children see these publications it will be an education in taste.”

Daniel Tutt: New Islamic Art Film Premieres in Chicago

Posted on 29th February 2012 in The monuments of world

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Critiquing Safdie’s Institute of Peace

Posted on 28th February 2012 in The monuments of world

Affordable Green

There was a new focus for this year’s Solar Decathlon: affordability. ARCHITECT visited with the top two finishers in the new category—the Parsons team, which will donate its house to Habitat for Humanity after the competition, and Purdue University, which will relocate its house to a Lafayette, Ind., neighborhood. How did the two teams achieve energy-efficient designs on a budget?

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Going Beyond the Tale of a Boy and His Horse

Posted on 27th February 2012 in The monuments of world

Going Beyond the Tale of a Boy and His Horse

Well in advance of the 2014 centennial of the beginning of “the war to end all wars,” the First World War is suddenly everywhere in our lives. Stephen Spielberg’s War Horse opened on 2,376 movie screens and has collected six Oscar nominations, while the hugely successful play it’s based on is still packing in the crowds in New York and a second production is being readied to tour the country.

In addition, the must-watch TV soap opera of the last two months, Downton Abbey, has just concluded its season on an unexpected kiss. In seven episodes, its upstairs-downstairs world of forbidden love and dynastic troubles took American viewers from mid-war, 1916, beyond the Armistice, with the venerable Abbey itself turned into a convalescent hospital for wounded troops. Other dramas about the 1914-1918 war are on the way, among them an HBO-BBC miniseries based on Ford Madox Ford’s Parade’s End quartet of novels, and a TV adaptation of Sebastian Faulks’s novel Birdsong from an NBC-backed production company.

In truth, there’s nothing new in this. Filmmakers and novelists have long been fascinated by the way the optimistic, sunlit, pre-1914 Europe of emperors in plumed helmets and hussars on parade so quickly turned into a mass slaughterhouse on an unprecedented scale. And there are good reasons to look at the First World War carefully and closely.

After all, it was responsible for the deaths of some nine million soldiers and an even larger number of civilians. It helped ignite the Armenian genocide and the Russian Revolution, left large swaths of Europe in smoldering ruins, and remade the world for the worse in almost every conceivable way — above all, by laying the groundwork for a second and even more deadly, even more global war.

There are good reasons as well for us to be particularly haunted by what happened in those war years to the country that figures in all four of these film and TV productions: Britain. In 1914, that nation was at the apex of glory, the unquestioned global superpower, ruling over the largest empire the world had ever seen. Four and a half years later its national debt had increased tenfold, more than 720,000 British soldiers were dead, and hundreds of thousands more seriously wounded, many of them missing arms, legs, eyes, genitals.

The toll fell particularly heavily on the educated classes that supplied the young lieutenants and captains who led their troops out of the trenches and into murderous machine-gun fire. To give but a single stunning example, of the men who graduated from Oxford in 1913, 31% were killed.

“Swept Away in a Red Blast of Hate”

Yet curiously, for all the spectacle of boy and horse, thundering cavalry charges, muddy trenches, and wartime love and loss, the makers of War Horse, Downtown Abbey and — I have no doubt — the similar productions we’ll soon be watching largely skip over the greatest moral drama of those years of conflict, one that continues to echo in our own time of costly and needless wars. They do so by leaving out part of the cast of characters of that moment. The First World War was not just a battle between rival armies, but also a powerful, if one-sided, battle between those who assumed the war was a noble crusade and those who thought it absolute madness.

The war’s opponents went to jail in many countries. There were more than 500 conscientious objectors imprisoned in the United States in those years, for example, plus others jailed for speaking out against joining the conflict. Eugene V. Debs had known prison from his time as a railway union leader, but he spent far longer behind bars — more than two years — for urging American men to resist the draft. Convicted of sedition, he was still in his cell at the federal penitentiary in Atlanta in November 1920 when, long after the war ended, he received nearly a million votes as the Socialist candidate for President.

One American protest against the war turned to tragedy when, in 1917, Oklahoma police arrested nearly 500 draft resisters — white, black, and Native American — taking part in what they called the Green Corn Rebellion against “a rich man’s war, poor man’s fight.” Three were killed and many injured.

War resisters were also thrown in jail in Germany and Russia. But the country with the largest and best organized antiwar movement — and here’s where the creators of those film and TV costume dramas so beloved by Anglophile American audiences miss a crucial opportunity — was Britain.

The main reason opposition to the war proved relatively strong there was simple enough: in 1914, the island nation had not been attacked. German invaders marched into France and Belgium, but Germany hoped Britain would stay out of the war. And so did some Britons. When their country joined the fighting on the grounds that Germany had violated Belgian neutrality, a vocal minority continued to insist that jumping into a quarrel among other countries was a disastrous mistake.

Keir Hardie was a prominent early war opponent. A trade union leader and Member of Parliament, he had, by the age of 21, already spent half his life as a coal miner and he never went to school. Nonetheless, he became one of the great orators of the age, mesmerizing crowds with his eloquence, his piercing, heavy-browed eyes, and a striking red beard. Crushed with despair that millions of Europe’s working men were slaughtering one another rather than making common cause in fighting for their rights, his beard white, he died in 1915, still in his 50s.

Among those who bravely challenged the war fever, whose rallies were often violently broken up by the police or patriotic mobs, was well-known radical feminist Charlotte Despard. Her younger brother, amazingly, was Field Marshal Sir John French, commander-in-chief of the Western Front for the first year and a half of the war. A similarly riven family was the famous Pankhurst clan of suffragettes: Sylvia Pankhurst became an outspoken opponent of the conflict, while her sister Christabel was from the beginning a fervent drum-beater for the war effort. They not only stopped speaking to each other, but published rival newspapers that regularly attacked the other’s work.

Britain’s leading investigative journalist, Edmund Dene Morel, and its most famous philosopher, Bertrand Russell, were both passionate war critics. “This war is trivial, for all its vastness,” Russell wrote. “No great principle is at stake, no great human purpose is involved on either side.” He was appalled to see his fellow citizens “swept away in a red blast of hate.”

He wrote with remarkable candor about how difficult it was to go against the current of the national war fever “when the whole nation is in a state of violent collective excitement. As much effort was required to avoid sharing this excitement as would have been needed to stand out against the extreme of hunger or sexual passion, and there was the same feeling of going against instinct.”

Both Russell and Morel spent six months in prison for their beliefs. Morel served his term at hard labor, carrying 100-pound slabs of jute to the prison workshop while subsisting on a bare-bones diet during a frigid winter when prison furnaces were last in line for the nation’s scarce supply of coal.

Women like Violet Tillard went to jail as well. She worked for an antiwar newspaper banned in 1918 and was imprisoned for refusing to reveal the location of its clandestine printing press. And among the unsung heroines of that antiwar moment was Emily Hobhouse, who secretly traveled through neutral Switzerland to Berlin, met the German foreign minister, talked over possible peace terms, and then returned to England to try to do the same with the British government. Its officials dismissed her as a lone-wolf eccentric, but in a conflict that killed some 20 million people, she was the sole human being who journeyed from one side to the other and back again in search of peace.

Why We Know More About War Than Peace

By the war’s end, more than 20,000 British men had defied the draft and, as a matter of principle, many also refused the alternative service prescribed for conscientious objectors, like ambulance driving at the front or working in a war industry. More than 6,000 of them were put behind bars — up to that moment the largest number of people ever imprisoned for political reasons in a western democracy.

There was nothing easy about any of this. Draft refusers were mocked and jeered (mobs threw rotten eggs at them when given the chance), jailed under harsh conditions, and lost the right to vote for five years. But with war’s end, in a devastated country mourning its losses and wondering what could possibly justify that four-year slaughter, many people came to feel differently about the resisters. More than half a dozen were eventually elected to the House of Commons and the journalist Morel became the Labour Party’s chief Parliamentary spokesperson on foreign affairs. Thirty years after the Armistice, a trade unionist named Arthur Creech Jones, who had spent two and a half years in prison as a war resister, was appointed to the British cabinet.

The bravery of such men and women in speaking their minds on one of the great questions of the age cost them dearly: in public scorn, prison terms, divided families, lost friends and jobs. And yet they are largely forgotten today at a moment when resistance to pointless wars should be celebrated. Instead we almost always tend to celebrate those who fight wars — win or lose — rather than those who oppose them.

It’s not just the films and TV shows we watch, but the monuments and museums we build. No wonder, as General Omar Bradley once said, that we “know more about war than we know about peace.” We tend to think of wars as occasions for heroism, and in a narrow, simple sense they can be. But a larger heroism, sorely lacking in Washington this last decade, lies in daring to think through whether a war is worth fighting at all. In looking for lessons in wars past, there’s a much deeper story to be told than that of a boy and his horse.

Adam Hochschild is the author of King Leopold’s Ghost and Bury the Chains, among other works. His latest bestselling book, To End All Wars: A Story of Loyalty and Rebellion, 1914-1918 (Houghton Mifflin Harcourt), focuses on the antiwar critics of World War I. Now available in paperback, it is a finalist for both the National Book Critics Circle Award and the Los Angeles Times Book Prize. To listen to Timothy MacBain’s latest Tomcast audio interview in which Hochschild discusses the largely untold stories of those in England who opposed involvement in World War I and the message they offer for our own time, click here, or download it to your iPod here.

Follow TomDispatch on Twitter @TomDispatch and join us on Facebook.

Copyright 2012 Adam Hochschild

Adam Hochschild: The Untold War Story — Then and Now

Posted on 27th February 2012 in The monuments of world

Going Beyond the Tale of a Boy and His Horse

Cross-posted with TomDispatch.com

Well in advance of the 2014 centennial of the beginning of “the war to end all wars,” the First World War is suddenly everywhere in our lives. Stephen Spielberg’s War Horse opened on 2,376 movie screens and has collected six Oscar nominations, while the hugely successful play it’s based on is still packing in the crowds in New York and a second production is being readied to tour the country.

In addition, the must-watch TV soap opera of the last two months, Downton Abbey, has just concluded its season on an unexpected kiss.  In seven episodes, its upstairs-downstairs world of forbidden love and dynastic troubles took American viewers from mid-war, 1916, beyond the Armistice, with the venerable Abbey itself turned into a convalescent hospital for wounded troops. Other dramas about the 1914-1918 war are on the way, among them an HBO-BBC miniseries based on Ford Madox Ford’s Parade’s End quartet of novels, and a TV adaptation of Sebastian Faulks’s novel Birdsong from an NBC-backed production company.

In truth, there’s nothing new in this.  Filmmakers and novelists have long been fascinated by the way the optimistic, sunlit, pre-1914 Europe of emperors in plumed helmets and hussars on parade so quickly turned into a mass slaughterhouse on an unprecedented scale. And there are good reasons to look at the First World War carefully and closely.

After all, it was responsible for the deaths of some nine million soldiers and an even larger number of civilians.  It helped ignite the Armenian genocide and the Russian Revolution, left large swaths of Europe in smoldering ruins, and remade the world for the worse in almost every conceivable way — above all, by laying the groundwork for a second and even more deadly, even more global war.

There are good reasons as well for us to be particularly haunted by what happened in those war years to the country that figures in all four of these film and TV productions: Britain. In 1914, that nation was at the apex of glory, the unquestioned global superpower, ruling over the largest empire the world had ever seen. Four and a half years later its national debt had increased tenfold, more than 720,000 British soldiers were dead, and hundreds of thousands more seriously wounded, many of them missing arms, legs, eyes, genitals.

The toll fell particularly heavily on the educated classes that supplied the young lieutenants and captains who led their troops out of the trenches and into murderous machine-gun fire. To give but a single stunning example, of the men who graduated from Oxford in 1913, 31% were killed.

“Swept Away in a Red Blast of Hate”

Yet curiously, for all the spectacle of boy and horse, thundering cavalry charges, muddy trenches, and wartime love and loss, the makers of War Horse, Downton Abbey and — I have no doubt — the similar productions we’ll soon be watching largely skip over the greatest moral drama of those years of conflict, one that continues to echo in our own time of costly and needless wars. They do so by leaving out part of the cast of characters of that moment.  The First World War was not just a battle between rival armies, but also a powerful, if one-sided, battle between those who assumed the war was a noble crusade and those who thought it absolute madness.

The war’s opponents went to jail in many countries.  There were more than 500 conscientious objectors imprisoned in the United States in those years, for example, plus others jailed for speaking out against joining the conflict. Eugene V. Debs had known prison from his time as a railway union leader, but he spent far longer behind bars — more than two years — for urging American men to resist the draft. Convicted of sedition, he was still in his cell at the federal penitentiary in Atlanta in November 1920 when, long after the war ended, he received nearly a million votes as the Socialist candidate for President.

One American protest against the war turned to tragedy when, in 1917, Oklahoma police arrested nearly 500 draft resisters — white, black, and Native American — taking part in what they called the Green Corn Rebellion against “a rich man’s war, poor man’s fight.” Three were killed and many injured.

War resisters were also thrown in jail in Germany and Russia. But the country with the largest and best organized antiwar movement — and here’s where the creators of those film and TV costume dramas so beloved by Anglophile American audiences miss a crucial opportunity — was Britain.

The main reason opposition to the war proved relatively strong there was simple enough: in 1914, the island nation had not been attacked. German invaders marched into France and Belgium, but Germany hoped Britain would stay out of the war. And so did some Britons. When their country joined the fighting on the grounds that Germany had violated Belgian neutrality, a vocal minority continued to insist that jumping into a quarrel among other countries was a disastrous mistake.

Keir Hardie was a prominent early war opponent.  A trade union leader and Member of Parliament, he had, by the age of 21, already spent half his life as a coal miner and he never went to school.  Nonetheless, he became one of the great orators of the age, mesmerizing crowds with his eloquence, his piercing, heavy-browed eyes, and a striking red beard. Crushed with despair that millions of Europe’s working men were slaughtering one another rather than making common cause in fighting for their rights, his beard white, he died in 1915, still in his 50s.

Among those who bravely challenged the war fever, whose rallies were often violently broken up by the police or patriotic mobs, was well-known radical feminist Charlotte Despard. Her younger brother, amazingly, was Field Marshal Sir John French, commander-in-chief of the Western Front for the first year and a half of the war. A similarly riven family was the famous Pankhurst clan of suffragettes: Sylvia Pankhurst became an outspoken opponent of the conflict, while her sister Christabel was from the beginning a fervent drum-beater for the war effort.  They not only stopped speaking to each other, but published rival newspapers that regularly attacked the other’s work.

Britain’s leading investigative journalist, Edmund Dene Morel, and its most famous philosopher, Bertrand Russell, were both passionate war critics. “This war is trivial, for all its vastness,” Russell wrote. “No great principle is at stake, no great human purpose is involved on either side.” He was appalled to see his fellow citizens “swept away in a red blast of hate.”

He wrote with remarkable candor about how difficult it was to go against the current of the national war fever “when the whole nation is in a state of violent collective excitement. As much effort was required to avoid sharing this excitement as would have been needed to stand out against the extreme of hunger or sexual passion, and there was the same feeling of going against instinct.”

Both Russell and Morel spent six months in prison for their beliefs. Morel served his term at hard labor, carrying 100-pound slabs of jute to the prison workshop while subsisting on a bare-bones diet during a frigid winter when prison furnaces were last in line for the nation’s scarce supply of coal.

Women like Violet Tillard went to jail as well.  She worked for an antiwar newspaper banned in 1918 and was imprisoned for refusing to reveal the location of its clandestine printing press. And among the unsung heroines of that antiwar moment was Emily Hobhouse, who secretly traveled through neutral Switzerland to Berlin, met the German foreign minister, talked over possible peace terms, and then returned to England to try to do the same with the British government. Its officials dismissed her as a lone-wolf eccentric, but in a conflict that killed some 20 million people, she was the sole human being who journeyed from one side to the other and back again in search of peace.

Why We Know More About War Than Peace

By the war’s end, more than 20,000 British men had defied the draft and, as a matter of principle, many also refused the alternative service prescribed for conscientious objectors, like ambulance driving at the front or working in a war industry. More than 6,000 of them were put behind bars — up to that moment the largest number of people ever imprisoned for political reasons in a western democracy.

There was nothing easy about any of this.  Draft refusers were mocked and jeered (mobs threw rotten eggs at them when given the chance), jailed under harsh conditions, and lost the right to vote for five years. But with war’s end, in a devastated country mourning its losses and wondering what could possibly justify that four-year slaughter, many people came to feel differently about the resisters. More than half a dozen were eventually elected to the House of Commons and the journalist Morel became the Labour Party’s chief Parliamentary spokesperson on foreign affairs. Thirty years after the Armistice, a trade unionist named Arthur Creech Jones, who had spent two and a half years in prison as a war resister, was appointed to the British cabinet.

The bravery of such men and women in speaking their minds on one of the great questions of the age cost them dearly: in public scorn, prison terms, divided families, lost friends and jobs. And yet they are largely forgotten today at a moment when resistance to pointless wars should be celebrated.  Instead we almost always tend to celebrate those who fight wars — win or lose — rather than those who oppose them.

It’s not just the films and TV shows we watch, but the monuments and museums we build. No wonder, as General Omar Bradley once said, that we “know more about war than we know about peace.” We tend to think of wars as occasions for heroism, and in a narrow, simple sense they can be. But a larger heroism, sorely lacking in Washington this last decade, lies in daring to think through whether a war is worth fighting at all. In looking for lessons in wars past, there’s a much deeper story to be told than that of a boy and his horse.

Adam Hochschild is the author of King Leopold’s Ghost and Bury the Chains, among other works. His latest bestselling book, To End All Wars: A Story of Loyalty and Rebellion, 1914-1918 (Houghton Mifflin Harcourt), focuses on the antiwar critics of World War I.  Now available in paperback, it is a finalist for both the National Book Critics Circle Award and the Los Angeles Times Book Prize. To listen to Timothy MacBain’s latest Tomcast audio interview in which Hochschild discusses the largely untold stories of those in England who opposed involvement in World War I and the message they offer for our own time, click here, or download it to your iPod here.

Follow TomDispatch on Twitter @TomDispatch and join us on Facebook.

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