Royal tour of Prince Charles and his wife Camilla to honour service by Canadians

Posted on 20th May 2012 in The monuments of world

FREDERICTON – When Prince Charles and his wife Camilla arrive Sunday in Canada to mark the Queen’s Diamond Jubilee, the visit will also be a chance to celebrate how Canadians are serving their communities.

The royal couple is embarking on a four-day tour with stops in New Brunswick, Ontario and Saskatchewan, during which they will honour those who have devoted their time to others.

They are set to arrive at the Fredericton International Airport on Sunday evening, but their tour does not begin in earnest until Monday, where they will pay tribute to members of the military and their loved ones at Canadian Forces Base Gagetown.

There, Charles and Gov.-Gen. David Johnston will deliver speeches. The royal couple will also visit the Prince’s Operation Entrepreneur program, which helps military personnel transition to civilian life by starting and growing their own businesses.

In the afternoon, they will travel to Saint John for a walking tour along Prince William Street, which features late 19th-century architecture. In 1981, Prince William Street became the first streetscape in Canada to be designated as being of national historic and architectural significance by the Historic Sites and Monuments Board of Canada.

They will also attend a citizenship ceremony for 12 new Canadians — two for each decade of the Queen’s reign.

Then it’s a short walk to the Marco Polo Cruise Ship Terminal for Victoria Day celebrations, including displays of local crafts and choral presentations.

They will then tour Hazen White-St. Francis School, an elementary school with about 145 students who are predominantly from low-income families, before flying to Toronto in time to view a Victoria Day fireworks display.

On Tuesday, the Ontario government will host a reception in the historic Distiller District for the royal couple before Charles visits the Yonge Street Mission.

In a column he wrote for the Globe and Mail, Charles said he wanted to find practical opportunities to celebrate how Canadians are serving their home communities, the country and the world.

“Service to others is the central theme of the Diamond Jubilee and it is this that guides the Queen and my family in all that we try to do,” he said.

“Many of the engagements during this tour are deliberately focused on highlighting individual cases of success which tell a wider story so that they might inspire others to become involved in similar ways.”

Barry MacKenzie of the Monarchist League of Canada said the tour provides an opportunity for Charles and Camilla to thanks Canadians for their community efforts while marking Her Majesty’s 60 years on the throne.

“It’s the wonderful service of the people of Canada to others that makes it a great place to live.

“I think the opportunity we’re being afforded this year is to celebrate all of that.”

They will depart Toronto on Tuesday evening for Regina. The next day, Charles will have a private audience with Prime Minister Stephen Harper and be treated to a concert by the Regina Symphony Orchestra before the tour concludes.

Fairhaven's military history is rich with stories of sacrifice

Posted on 20th May 2012 in The monuments of world
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jack iddon/The standard-Times, file Among the cannons at Fort Phoenix are these large Civil War-era pieces. The town and the fort have played key military roles since the Revolution.

By WILLIAM A. MONIZ

May 20, 2012 12:00 AM

Long before its 1812 incorporation, and for the 200 years since, Fairhaven has generously given of its men and women to America’s wars.

In July of 1675, the territory known as Dartmouth, which included present day Fairhaven, New Bedford, and Acushnet, was attacked by Wampanoag warriors. Under the leadership of their Sachem, or leader, Metacomet, known to the English as King Phillip, the Native Americans destroyed all 30 homes in the settlement, killing William Palmer, Jacob and Susannah Mitchell and John Pope in the process.

The town would remain abandoned until King Phillip’s War ended with the signing of the Casco Bay, Maine treaty in April, 1678. The following June, Dartmouth would hold its first town meeting in three years.

Almost a century later, on April 21, 1775, only two days after “the shot heard round the world,” Dartmouth mustered three companies of militia to join the minutemen laying siege to the Redcoats in the town of Boston. Three weeks later, under the command of Captains Daniel Egery and Nathaniel Pope, the 40-ton sloop Success carrying 25 minutemen, set out from Fairhaven to recapture two Colonial merchantmen recently seized by the British Sloop of War HMS Falcon.

After shadowing the British prizes under light winds on the foggy night of May 13, the Success, with Pope at the helm, surprised one anchored sloop at sunrise, overwhelming the British watch before they could cut free from their mooring. Pope, one minuteman, and the ship’s drummer then sailed the recaptured vessel and its British prize crew off to anchor at Fairhaven.

Success, now under Egery’s command, soon spotted the second sloop raising sail off West Island and gave pursuit. Approaching within musket range, Egery ordered his sharpshooter to take aim on an officer in British livery. “The shot felled the officer, more shooting followed, and the Englishmen struck their colors.” (Logs of the Dead Pirates Society, R. S. Peffer, Sheridan House, 2000)

The action resulted in the recapture of both Yankee sloops and the detention of 15 British prisoners including HMS Falcon’s gunner and ship’s surgeon. The first naval battle of the Revolutionary War had ended in an American victory. The wounded British officer who had taken a buckshot pellet to the skull, survived. According to Peffer’s account, the officer was quoted as saying that his family had been called “a hard-headed lot.”

On June 18, 1812, only four months after Fairhaven’s incorporation, President James Madison would sign a declaration of war against Great Britain. According to “Old-Time Fairhaven”, by Charles A. Harris, “In 1812 [ Ft. Phoenix] was again made serviceable, in anticipation of war, being refurbished with a new barracks. During that war the garrison repulsed an attempt to land barges from the British Sloop of War, Nimrod.”

Records provided by Fairhaven Director of Veteran’s Services Jim Cochran show that 14 town men served in “Mr. Madison’s War,” six in the Army and eight in the Navy. At the war’s end in 1815, the Fairhaven contingent had recorded no casualties.

Some 50 years later, Fairhaven servicemen would not be so lucky. Of the town’s 274 soldiers and sailors fighting for the Union in the Civil War, 31 would die from various causes, including; 9 killed in action, 10 of disease, and 3 while imprisoned by the Confederacy.

William H. Bryant, who died at his Fort Street home in 1929 at the age of 80, was a Civil War survivor. Only 15 years old when he enlisted in 1864, he needed his mother’s written consent to join Company D of the 3rd Massachusetts Cavalry. Bryant served in the Red River Campaign in Louisiana, and later saw action with General William Tecumseh Sherman in the Shenandoah Valley.

Trooper Bryant’s service continued even after the surrender of the Confederacy. In May of 1865, as the country transitioned from the Civil War to the Indian Wars, the 3rd Massachusetts was shipped off to Ft. Leavenworth, Kansas. Under General Patrick Connor, Bryant participated in the infamous Powder River Expedition into Wyoming aimed at punishing the Arapaho, Cheyenne, and Sioux for earlier raids on settlers.

Bryant was mustered out of the Army at Boston in September of 1865 and 15 years later the 1880 census listed his occupation as “sailor.” Bryant is buried in Riverside Cemetery.

In 1898, Fairhaven would provide 10 soldiers, 2 sailors and 1 marine, to help “Remember the Maine” in the Spanish American War. All would return home safely.

Twenty years later, World War I would be another story. Of the 328 Fairhaven boys sent “over there” in 1918, 10 would be killed in action and five would die of disease and other causes. In a typical pithy notice, the November 15, 1918 edition of the Fairhaven Star recorded the death of Joseph Perry’s stepson; “Joseph J. Perry of 146 Adams Street received a telegram on Wednesday announcing the death, Oct.8, from broncho pneumonia of Private A. E. Melanson of the 5th Machine Gun Co. Only three days before Mr. Perry received the bad news, Armistice Day had officially ended the war.”

Like William Bryant in the mid-19 Century, Fairhaven’s Luther Pierce would see service in two wars. Commissioned a second lieutenant after graduating the Army Air Corps flying school in Sacramento, Calif. in 1942, Pierce was assigned as a navigator on a B-17 Flying Fortress. During World War II, the 27 year-old Pierce would survive an astonishing 50 bombing missions over Germany.

In 1947, now Captain Pierce was recalled to active duty and in 1950 was back flying combat missions, this time in the skies over Korea. On Oct. 3 of that year Captain Pierce’s luck would run out when his B-26 Invader bomber went missing on a mission over Wonsan.

Captain Pierce was one of seven Fairhaven servicemen to die in the United Nations’ so-called “police action.” A total of 590 Fairhaven men and women served during the Korean Conflict.

The submarine USS Grayback, launched at Groton, Conn. in 1941, compiled an extraordinary record during her 10 separate World War II patrols. At 64,000 tons, the Grayback ranked 20th among all submarines in total tonnage sunk, and 24th in number of ships sunk with 14. The submarine and her crew received two unit commendations and eight battle stars for her extensive Pacific theater service.

Fairhaven’s Carleton Fielding enlisted in the U. S. Navy in February 1943. A three-sport star at Fairhaven High, Fielding, nicknamed “Swede,” was a tenacious two-way lineman in football. At commencement ceremonies, he was the recipient of the coveted Sparrow Cup as the school’s outstanding senior athlete.

After graduating from submarine school at New London, Conn., in the summer of 1943, the 21-year-old Fielding was assigned to the Grayback. The following Jan. 27, a notice in the Fairhaven Star announced, “The engagement of Miss Phyllis E. Jenney … of 726 Washington St. to Seaman Second Class Carleton F. Fielding”»” The brief paragraph ended matter of factly with, “Seaman Fielding is on submarine duty.”

The marriage would never take place. On Feb. 25, 1944, having expended all but two of her torpedoes in sinking three enemy ships and damaging two others, the Grayback was ordered back to base at Midway Island. She would never arrive.

Pieced together from captured Japanese records, the Navy believes it knows the fate of the Grayback. On Feb. 27, 1944, at about the position the Grayback would have been on her way back to base, a Japanese carrier-based aircraft spotted an American submarine running on the surface in the East China Sea. The plane attacked and reported that the submarine “exploded and sank immediately.”

On March 30, 1944, the Grayback was listed as missing and presumed sunk with all 80 of her crew. A full two years later, on May 8, 1946, the Navy Department reported that Carleton Fielding was officially presumed lost. In the 1941 Huttlestonian yearbook, a forever young “Swede” Fielding gazes out over his selected aphorism, “There is always safety in valor.”

Fairhaven’s “Greatest Generation” contributed 1,502 men and women to the Armed Forces during World War II, the most of any war. Including Carleton Fielding, 51 would not return.

In the mid-1950s another Asian war erupted in French Indo-China that, by the mid-1960s would lead to massive American involvement in Vietnam. Of a total of 823 Fairhaven men and women to serve during the Vietnam War, eight would die in service, including four killed in action.

Ironically, one of the town’s highest profile military deaths during the Vietnam Era would occur in Canada. In September 1966, former Fairhaven resident Lt. Commander Richard Oliver, a member of the Navy’s crack Blue Angels aerobatic team, was killed when his F-11 Tiger fighter crashed during a Toronto air show.

Oliver became a town celebrity in 1949 when he rescued a young boy from drowning in the Acushnet River. For his heroics, the 14 year-old Oliver was whisked to New York City where, as a guest of the Boys Clubs of America, he was treated to a Yankees’ baseball game and a private dinner with the team’s iconic star, Joe Dimaggio.

Interviewed a few weeks before his death, the 31 year-old Oliver said, “Vietnam is where I’d like to be next, the more I read about the air war there, the more I wish I were there with those boys helping out.”

In this, its Bicentennial year, the town’s contribution to the nation’s wars continues. According to Veteran’s Services Director Cochran, 182 service men and women have served in the Persian Gulf and Middle East. In 2006, Marine Lance Corporal and Fairhaven native Patrick Gallagher, was killed when the truck in which he was riding rolled over near Asad, Iraq.

The town has over a dozen monuments to its veterans ranging from Revolutionary War plaques at Fort Phoenix, to the Civil War memorial at Bridge Park, to the World War II, Lookout Tower at West Island. Cochran credits the town’s various veterans organizations for their help in maintaining these monuments.

“I couldn’t ask for Fairhaven to be more patriotic,” says Cochran, “veterans’ activities get great support from the town.”



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In death – as in life – my mother was rescued by love | Jonathan Freedland

Posted on 18th May 2012 in The monuments of world
  • Jonathan Freedland

  • Sara Freedland and family
    Sara Freedland, with son Jonathan and grandson Jacob in 2005. Photograph: Toby Glanville for the Guardian

    Nearly 11 years have passed since I last broke my own rule and wrote in this place about something deeply personal. Then, in the summer of 2001, it was the birth of my first child and the article was a hymn of praise for the National Health Service that had ushered my son into the world.

    Today I write about my mother, who died 10 days ago. Once again – though this is not my only aim – I want to record my praise, even awe, for the people who looked after her. It was not so straightforward this time. Yes, the NHS funded it all, but my mother was tended to – at home in Bournemouth – by a variety of agencies, some public, some voluntary and one private. I confess that before this experience, I would have been wary of such an arrangement. But my prejudices were confounded. The team worked together with perfect efficiency, a coalition of Macmillan and Marie Curie nurses, agency staff, NHS district nurses and care assistants and the local GP. Not once did any information slip through the cracks. It meant we could fulfil our promise to my mother that she would spend her last weeks not in hospital or in a hospice, but at home.

    At no point, despite all the equipment and expertise that came through the front door, was money so much as mentioned. Never were we confronted with a choice of a cheaper option or a limit to our “cover”. My mother got all the care she needed and no one presented her or us with a bill. That is the glory of our national health system, one we take for granted too easily. It is a treasure to be cherished.

    And yet what will stay with me is a thought not about systems or organisations, but about people. Perhaps two dozen different women helped my mother in those last days. They were gentle and sensitive, speaking softly and with great care. Several of them, it turned out, were motivated by past experience of caring for their own, terminally ill relatives. On the last full day of my mother’s life, I noticed that the eyes of one nurse, Sue, were welling with tears. She had been watching me talk to my mother and had, I think, been reminded of her own farewell to her father. When she said goodbye to me, she said something I shall never forget. “Thank you for letting me in.”

    I never asked what any of these remarkable people are paid, but I don’t imagine it’s very much. And yet they do work that is tough, exhausting and priceless. I know the explanation for that paradox but, in truth, it is inexplicable.

    Still, what I’ve been thinking about most during these last 10 days is my mother. She won no prizes, she built no monuments – and yet her life was extraordinary. When I wrote a memoir of three generations of my family, including the lives of relatives involved in some of the epic political events of their era, it was nevertheless her story that touched people most.

    She was born Sara Hocherman in 1936, in the small town of Petach Tikva in what was then Palestine. She was two months premature: the doctors warned that her life was “hanging by a thread”. Her father was an ultra-orthodox Jew who showed his children what might politely be called distracted neglect. He did not provide for them or his wife and, after an older sister died through malnutrition, my mother’s mother returned to her native London with her two surviving children.

    By the time she was five, in 1942, Sara was an evacuee in the Bedfordshire countryside, taken in by a kindly unmarried lady who took a shine to the little girl. But Sara missed her mother terribly. In the spring of 1945, the war’s end approaching, a reunion seemed only weeks away. Then one of the very last V2 rockets to fall on London hit Hughes Mansions in the East End, killing 134 people; 120 of them were Jews, my mother’s 33-year-old mother among them. When everyone else was celebrating VE Day, eight-year-old Sara was in mourning.

    What followed were hard years in the post-war East End, and in 1949 a return to what was now Israel, to witness the earliest years of the state. That period was hard too: my teenage mother had to contend with poverty, family estrangement and disease. In 1955, Sara returned to England where she eventually met and found happiness with my father. Illness would strike again when my mother was 43; once more the doctors would say her life was hanging by a thread. But somehow she survived.

    There is so much to say about all of this, and one way or another I will spend the rest of my life saying it. But three points stand out.

    The first is that my mother’s experience made her much more hawkish than me on matters relating to Israel. To lose her mother (and an aunt) along with so many other Jews to one of Hitler’s bombs meant she had felt the breath of the Shoah on her neck: it entrenched a yearning that she felt as a desperate need, the craving for a place the Jews could call their own. She was not the only one to feel it. Whatever view you ultimately take on the Israel-Palestine question, you cannot hope to understand that conflict unless you also understand this need.

    Second, whenever one contemplates war or military intervention anywhere, one needs to contemplate this unbending fact: that every bomb or rocket that falls, no matter where in the world it lands, is destined to create another Sara Hocherman – a child who has lost a parent. And the pain of that act will live on through the decades and through the generations, as it did in my family.

    Lastly, my mother’s life was proof of the power of love. She was rescued first by her aunt, Yiddi, who took her in, and next by my father, who was with her for 52 years and with her at the very end. Their love ensured that, though my mother was unfathomably strong, she was never hard. She contained next to no bitterness, only oceans of empathy.

    So this weekend, do yourself this favour, if you can. As my mother would have put it, deploying the idiosyncratic grammar that was part Yiddish, part passive-aggressive self-deprecation, “Phone your mother: she’s also a person.”

    Jonathan Freedland has set up a Just Giving page in his mother’s name, for Macmillan Cancer Support

    Twitter: @j_freedland

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    Knowledge Graph: Google unleashes the Big Boy

    Posted on 17th May 2012 in The monuments of world

    London, May 17: After revolutionising the Internet, Google has now unleashed its next-generation technology – ‘Knowledge Graph’ – which can locate even more relevant information for you than ever before, on the right-hand side of the traditional results.

    “The Knowledge Graph also helps us understand the relationships between things. Marie Curie is a person in the Knowledge Graph, and she had two children, one of whom also won a Nobel Prize, as well as a husband, Pierre Curie, who claimed a third Nobel Prize for the family,” said Google software engineer Sarveshwar Dudd.

    “All of these are linked in our graph. It’s not just a catalogue of objects; it also models all these inter-relationships. It’s the intelligence between these different entities that’s the key,” said Dudd, the Daily Mail reports.

    “We’re proud of our first baby step – the Knowledge Graph – which will enable us to make search more intelligent, moving us closer to the ‘Star Trek computer’ that I’ve always dreamed of building,” added Dudd.

    Google avers this is a “critical first step towards building the next generation of search, which taps into the collective intelligence of the web and understands the world a bit more like people do.”

    Google said the search engine pulls the facts, figures and images from across the web – so it is not relying on the traditional search engine trick of pulling data from Wikipedia.

    Amit Singhal, Google’s senior vice-president of engineering, said: “Search is a lot about discovery – the basic human need to learn and broaden your horizons. But searching still requires a lot of hard work by you, the user. So today I’m really excited to launch the Knowledge Graph, which will help you discover new information quickly and easily.”

    Explaining the concept, Singhal said: “Take a query like Taj Mahal. For more than four decades, search has essentially been about matching keywords to queries. To a search engine the words Taj Mahal have been just that – two words.

    “But we all know that Taj Mahal has a much richer meaning. You might think of one of the world’s most beautiful monuments, or a Grammy Award-winning musician, or possibly even a casino in Atlantic City, New Jersey, or depending on when you last ate, the nearest Indian restaurant,” said Singhal. (IANS)

     

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    Under the spell of Istanbul

    Posted on 17th May 2012 in The monuments of world


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    View of Istanbul from the Golden Horn

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    Topkapi Palace symbolises the eternal vigilance of the Ottoman Sultan against injustice

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    Dolmabache Palace was an administrative centre for Ottoman Empire replacing the Topkapi Palace until 1922

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    Enderun Library within the Topkapi Palace compound

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    The Blue Mosque in its grandeur under the bright sunlight as seen from Sultan Ahmad Garden, at the northern side Pictures by Rizauddin Ibrahim

    AHH… historic Istanbul! This crosses my mind the moment I lay my eyes on classic Ottoman buildings and the architecturally European-flavoured ones set along the shores of the Golden Horn.

    I am on a boat cruise along the waters of the Golden Horn, a natural estuary of the Bosphorus Strait that divides this capital of Turkey into two continents — Asia in the east and Europe in the west.

    That boat cruise is a surreal yet amazing voyage between the two continents.

    The Golden Horn is a 7.5km- long, narrow estuary that forms a protected natural harbour.

    For thousands of years, it has been a port of call for ships from the Greek, Roman, Byzantine and Ottoman.

    Here was where the city once began and here is where I begin my journey in historic Istanbul.

    ANCIENT DOMES AND TOWERS

    Looking at the city skyline from where I am on the boat, I can already feel the historic aura. First, I clearly see the domes and towers of Hagia Sophia, Topkapi Palace and Blue Mosque which date from the year 530 to 1600.

    As the boat cruises along the coast, one cannot help feeling impressed at the sight of Dolmabahce Palace, (1856), and Beylerbeyi Palace, a summer palace completed in 1865.

    And there are many hundreds of years-old wooden villas and mansions along the shores that will make anyone envious of their owners.

    Then comes the Rumeli Hasari or Rumeli Fortress that will leave you awestruck by its sheer supreme look. It was the largest fortress built by Sultan Mehmed Istanbul II in 1451 to control the sea routes of the Bosphorus to prevent aid from the Black Sea reaching the Turkish Siege of Constantinople in 1453.

    Constantinople is the Byzantine name for Istanbul. It was under siege many times before Mehmet The Conqueror took the city in 1453 and made it the capital of the Ottoman Empire. Before that, it was the capital of powerful Roman and Byzantine Empire.

    These ancient empires left these symbols of their past glories and best of all, these remnants are not scattered ruins of dull grey stones but large buildings which have defied the ravages of time. All these can now still be seen in the Sultan Ahmed District.

    ROYAL DISTRICT

    The Sultan Ahmed District is the heart of historic Old Istanbul. It is located on the peninsula bounded by bodies of water to north, east and south — the Golden Horn, Bosphorus and the Sea of Marmara, respectively. The area was declared a World Heritage Site by Unesco in 1985.

    This is where Constantinople was located at the southern bank of the Golden Horn and parts of the defence wall of the old city still remain at the coast. Located on the European side of Istanbul, the old city is the best base for sightseeing in Istanbul.

    As the most historic part of Istanbul, Sultan Ahmet District is where all the city’s significant landmarks like Hippodrome, Blue Mosque, Hagia Sofia and Topkapi Palace are located. Making it a complete tourist destination, the area has a number of good restaurants and hotels too.

    HIPPODROME OF CONSTANTINOPLE

    Though public transport is easily accessible, going on foot is the best choice to explore the old city. You should not miss going to Sultan Ahmed Square, actually the Hippodrome of Constantinople, the sporting and social centre of the city during the Byzantium era where horse or chariot racings were held.

    Today, several fragments of the original structure that adorned the square during its glorious time are still standing. They are the monuments of the Spiral Column, Thutmosis Obelisk and Walled Obelisk.

    The most recent addition to the square is the German Fountain, which is an octagonal domed fountain in neo-Byzantine style, constructed by the German government in 1900 to mark the German Emperor Wilhelm II’s visit to Istanbul in 1898.

    THE BLUE MOSQUE

    Adjacent to the Hippodrome is the Blue Mosque, or its official name, Sultan Ahmed Mosque. Built from 1609 to 1617, it is called the Blue Mosque for the blue tiles that adorn the walls of its interior. However, the tiles are mostly on the upper level, which is difficult to see.

    Coming from the Hippodrome, I walk through a grand doorway on the western side to go to its inner courtyard.

    Its architecture is better appreciated from the outside, especially under the bright sunlight from the Sultan Ahmed Garden at the northern side.

    This grand building of Ottoman architecture with six minarets and cascading layers of domes is a sight to behold.

    HAGIA SOPHIA

    As you admire the Blue Mosque and praise its architect, Sadefkar Mehmet Aga, tribute should also be given to Anthemius of Tralles and Isidorus of Miletus, the architects of neighbouring Hagia Sophia.

    They designed Hagia Sophia 1,000 years before Mehmet Aga was born. History goes that Sultan Ahmed 1, the Sultan of Ottoman ordered the Blue Mosque to be built to rival Hagia Sophia. And the result is two great architectural achievements standing next to each other in Istanbul’s main square.

    Hagia Sofia or Aya Sofia in Turkish which means Church Of Holy Wisdom, was built from year 532 to 537.

    At that time, its wide, flat dome was considered a daring engineering feat and became the world’s most impressive building and made it the greatest church in Christendom.

    It then was turned into a mosque when Ottoman conquered the city in 1453 and continued to serve as Istanbul’s most revered mosque until 1935 when Kamal Ataturk turned it into a museum as we see it today.

    Unlike the Blue Mosque, Hagia Sofia is best admired from the inside, especially from the mezzanine level. From this floor, the view of the prayer hall is the most impressive. The natural light is slightly dimmed under its massive dome but gloriously lit by the glittering gold from the 30 million pieces of tiny golden tiles.

    These tiny pieces of tiles are mosaic images of the Virgin Mother, Jesus, saints, emperors and empresses, as well as geometric patterns.

    As it was once a mosque, the wall has Islamic calligraphy arts that inscribe religious names including that of the first four caliphs Abu Bakar, Umar, Uthman and Ali.

    It is under this great dome of Hagia Sophia that I find a perfect mix of both Ottoman and Byzantium, or Islamic and Christian.

    These are the characteristics of two different cultures from two great empires that have affected present Istanbul.
     

    TOPKAPI PALACE

    Next to Hagia Sophia is Topkapi Palace, home of Ottoman Sultan for 400 years and the heart of Ottoman Empire.

    The initial construction began in 1459 but after that, over centuries,  the Palace Complex expanded to cover 80 hectares! This centuries-long construction included the major renovation after the 1509 earthquake and 1665 fire.

    At its peak, the palace is home to 4,000 people but it is now the Topkapi Palace Museum housing many collections of historic objects from all over the Ottoman Empire and precious heirlooms that once belonged to Ottoman Sultans themselves.

    A short visit to this palace will not do justice to it for it is a huge complex, made of four main courtyards and many smaller buildings.

    The assortment of small buildings is fine architecture on its own. They are a result of the directives by many previous Ottoman Sultans who individually added and changed various structures and elements in the palace.

    But the finest of all is the Fourth Courtyard or Imperial Sofa, the innermost private sanctuary of the Sultan and his family and has a number of pavilions, kiosks, gardens and terraces.

    Here also is the special chamber called Chamber of the Sacred Relic, which includes the Pavilion of the Holy Mantle.

    The pavilion houses what are considered the most sacred relics of the Muslim world, including the cloak of the Prophet Muhammad, two swords, a bow, one tooth, hairs of his beard, his battle sabres, autographed letters and other relics.

    Several other sacred objects are also on display, such as the swords of the first four Caliphs, the staff of Moses, the turban of Joseph and a carpet belonging to Muhammad’s daughter.

    The upper terrace has the Iftar Kiosk and Baghdad Kiosk where the Sultan customarily breaks fast during Ramadan with the view of the Golden Horn in the background. This is the best place to end the tour in Topkapi Palace.
     

    GRAND BAZAAR

    For a city that is proud of its heritage and culture inherited from two major empires, there is life in this city that stubbornly clings on to its old world ambience. That is the Grand Bazaar.

    The oldest and one of the world’s largest covered bazaars, the bazaar spreads over 61 covered streets with more than 3,000 shops. Record has it that the bazaar attracts between 250,000 and 400,000 visitors daily.

    It offers an excellent shopping experience especially for souvenir hunting, from Turkish carpets, glazed tiles and pottery, copper and brassware, apparel made of leather, cotton and wool, music instrument to all sorts of other things.

    Thanks to the ambience, I can’t help but feel like entering Aladdin’s cave in some shops selling antiques.

    This is the place to hone bargaining skills, which usually involves prospective clients having tea with the traders while bargaining for the right price.

    Shopping in the Grand Bazaar is what many visitors list as among the things to do when visiting Istanbul. But for a more sizzling time, have a fine dinner with a belly dancing show thrown in.
     

    Marilynne Robinson's Small, Rich Body of Work

    Posted on 16th May 2012 in The monuments of world

    By Allen Barra

    May 16 2012, 1:47 PM ET Comment

    The Pulitzer Prize-winning author has written only seven books over the course of her career, but her slow care is part of what makes her great.

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    Since her first novel,1980′s Housekeeping, Marilynne Robinson has written just six books: two novels—Gilead (2004) and Home (2008)—and fourworks of non-fiction, Mother Country (1989), The Death of Adam(1998 ), Absence of Mind (2010), and this year’s When I Was A Child I Read Books.

    Can a novelist who produces only three works of fiction in 32 years be considered great? Can an essayist whose primary concerns—the compatibility of Christian dogma with science, the liberal origins of Calvinism—are far outside mainstream American thought be considered great?

    Robinson is an American original. In How Fiction Works, James Wood tracks some possible literary antecedents: “There is a familiar American simplicity, which is Puritan and colloquial in origin, ‘a sort of ecstatic fire that takes things down to the essential’,” as Robinson has it in Gilead. We recognize it in the Puritan sermon, in Jonathan Edwards, in Ulysses S. Grant’s memoirs, in Mark Twain, in Willa Cather, in Hemingway.”(Almost as if in reply, Robinson writes in When I Was A Child, “I think anyone can see that my style is considerably more indebted to Cicero than to Hemingway.”)

    But though Robinson might share certain sensibilities with other writers, it’s difficult to detect more than a faint association between her work and that of any previous author. As a novelist, her territory, the Western Plains, is also that of Willa Cather. (Robinson grew up in Idaho.) And in Gilead or Home, her pair of novels about two Iowa ministers, she seems to find a kindred spirit in Georges Bernanos of Diary of a Country Priest, but no direct influence.

    As a thinker, I suspect Robinson might find the Catholic apologist G.K. Chesterton an agreeable dinner companion. (I’m also guessing she might empathize with Chesterton’s notion of a respect for tradition as “the democracy of the dead.”) And I would love to hear a symposium with Robinson and Garry Wills. (Six years ago the two were featured together in an edition of The American Scholar under the subject of “The Other Christianity.”)

    One thing she certainly shared with both Chesterton and Wills is an absolute lack of interest in the fashionable. She has been described as having a cult following, but I think that is misleading. Let’s just say that despite an interest in themes and subjects shared by almost no other American writer, she has gathered a substantial readership—one that, despite a Pulitzer nomination for Housekeeping, a Pulitzer for Gilead,an Orange Prize (the prestigious U.K. award for women writers) for Home, and a lovely film version of Housekeeping by Scottish director Bill Forsythe in 1987—has never threatened to spill over into the realm of mass-market fiction.

    Rhetoric is heard, John Stuart Mill said, and poetry is overheard. Robinson, I expect, writes to be overheard. I would say Marilynne Robinson has been overheard by more people than any other current American writer.

    THE SUCCESS OF Gilead and Home has sent many readers back to Housekeeping, a novel that, more than three decades after its publication, remains fascinating and elusive.

    In When I Was A Child, Robinson writes that for her,fiction is an attempt “to stimulate the integrative work of a mind perceiving and reflecting, drawing upon culture, memory, conscience, belief or assumption, circumstance, fear, and desire—a mind shaping the moment of experience and response and then reshaping them both as narrative, holding one thought against another for the effect of affinity or contrast, evaluating and rationalizing, feeling compassion, taking offense.” (That’s a mouthful, but it’s hard to get a sense of what Robinson is saying without quoting her at length.)

    Housekeeping, she writes,”is meant as sort of demonstration of the intellectual culture of my childhood. It was my intention to make only those allusions that would have been available to my narrator, Ruth, if she were me, at her age more or less.”

    Housekeeping is set in the early 1950s in the town of Fingerbone, Idaho: “never an impressive town. It was chastened by an outsized landscape and extravagant weather, and chastened again by an awareness that the whole of human history had occurred elsewhere”—except for a spectacular accident a generation before the story takes place in which a train and its passengers slid off a long trestle bridge outside Fingerbone and disappeared forever into a deep mountain lake.

    The tragedy haunts the town; the grandfather of two young sisters, Ruthie and Lucille, was on the train and their mother, for reasons the girls can’t fathom, commits suicide by plunging her car into the same lake. To Ruthie, the older of the sisters and the narrator, her mother is a constant presence.”She was a music I no longer heard, that rang in my mind,” Robinson writes.

    Housekeeping is a novel about women. There are practically no men in Ruthie’s world. Her grandfather died before she was born, and her long-gone father isn’t even a memory. In a reverie that sounds more like an intrusion of the author than a mediation by Ruthie, Robinson writes of the grandmother, “She could feel that sharp loneliness she had felt every long evening since she was a child. It was the kind of loneliness that made clocks seem slow and loud and made voices sound like voices across water.”

    After their grandmother’s death, two great aunts come to take over the household but soon long to escape Fingerbone and return to Seattle. Then, Sylvie, Ruthie’s aunt, returns to the gothic house she grew up in to take care of the girls, who are now teenagers. At first Ruthie and Lucille, who see in Sylvie a sort of return of their mother, are ecstatic. She sings nostalgic songs like “Irene” and “What’ll I Do When You Are Far Away?” and imposes no strictures on them. The girls choose to skip school and take long hikes in the woods.

    But Lucille is at first irritated and then alarmed by Sylvie’s growing eccentricity. She washes tin cans and stacks them in the kitchen and collects newspapers for no apparent reason, putting them in stacks in the living and dining rooms. Desperate to escape her family’s shattered history and to join the middleclass, Lucille leaves the house and takes shelter with one of her teachers.

    Ruthie, though, is gradually drawn towards Sylvie’s rootlessness. She finds the past a burden: “Memory is the sense of loss, and loss pulls us after it.”When local authorities threaten to take custody of the girls, Ruthie and Sylvie leave town for a life of drifting. Some day, she muses, “When I am feeling presentable, I will go into Fingerbone and make inquiries. I must do it soon for such days are rare now.”

    I find myself struggling to put words to what I love about Housekeeping. After rereading it, I realize I’m touched by the way that nothing in Robinson’s world is inconsequential. The sisters, who skip school a lot, enjoy taking long walks at dawn. On one walk, they are joined in the road

    By a fat old bitch with a naked black belly and circles of white around her eyes. She was called Crip, because as a puppy she had favored one leg and now that she was an elderly dog she favored three. She tottered after us briskly, a companionable gleam in her better eye. I describe her at length because a mile or so from town she disappeared into the woods as if following a scent and never appeared again. She was a dog of no special consequence, and she passed from the world unlamented. Yet something of the somberness with which Lucille and I remembered this outing had to do with our last glimpse of her fat haunches and her palsied, upright tail as she clamored up the rocks and into the dusky dark of the woods.

    Crip passed from the world unlamented except by Marilynne Robinson.

    This sense of the importance of things permeates Housekeeping. Inanimate objects that fill their house have significance, “For even things lost in a house abide, like forgotten sorrows and incipient dreams … like the dim coil of thick hair, saved from my grandmother’s girlhood.”

    THE FAINT WHIFF of nihilism that exists in Housekeepingmay seem surprising to those who discovered Robinson through Gilead and Home, with their reverence for tradition. Set in Iowa, the two novels center around the families of a Congregationalist minister named John Ames and his lifelong friend, a Presbyterian minister named Robert Boughton. There is no way to make that plot description sound timely, relevant, or contemporary to avid readers of Jonathan Franzen or Zadie Smith; you’ll simply have to trust an avid reader of Franzen and Smith when he tells you how Gilead and Home can draw you in. One might also trust James Wood, who wrote about Gilead (and would, I think, extend the same praise to Home) that it “achieves an almost holy simplicity.”

    Events in Home revolve primarily around the Reverend Boughtonand his prodigal son Jack, who has lived the life of a drifter—one wonders if he somewhere on the road his path crossed Sylvie and Ruthie’s. Jack has spent time in jail and fathered a child with a black woman, the latter of which does not appall his family so much as puzzle them. The happiness stirred by his return home is mitigated by the unspoken knowledge that he cannot stay and ultimately cannot find peace in his father’s religion.

    Reverend Boughton is almost unique in stories about religious patriarchs in that he has virtually no ego and does not preach to his children. He is also unaware of nearly all social and political changes that have occurred since he was a boy. Like so many otherwise good men, he believes that the way things were when he was a young manare the way the world is supposed to be. The Civil Rights movement, for instance, which intrigues Jack so much, is unfathomable to him.

    If Robinson werea lesser novelist, one writing to warm our hearts, she would lead us down a path through which Jack and his father could reconcile. But the final pages of Home linger in the reader’s mind like an open wound of the heart.

    The sister left behind to care for their father reflects on Jack and the son she didn’t know he had, “She knew it would have answered a longing of Jack’s if he could even imagine that their spirits had passed through that strange old house. Just the thought of it might bring him back, and the place would seem changed, to him and to her. As if all that saving and keeping their father had done was providence indeed, and new love would transform all the old love and make its relics wonderful.” As a novelist Robinson illuminates the souls of people who live lives of quiet desperation.

    I mean souls in exactly the same way Robinson does in When I Was A Child:

    Having read any number of times that the human brain is the most complex object known to exist in the universe, and that the mind is not identical with the brain but is more mysterious still, it seems to me that this astonishing nexus of the will, so uniquely elegant and capable, merits a name that would indicate a difference in kind from the ontological run of things, and for my purposes ‘soul’ would do nicely.

    AFTER HOUSEKEEPING, Robinson turned to non-fiction, which, If I’m reading her correctly, has served as an outward expression of her primary concerns before they were filtered and reshaped in her fiction.

    Mother Country: Britain, the Welfare State, and Nuclear Pollution, published in 1989, is an extraordinary and little-read book—many of Robinson’s fans have never even heard of it. I did not know of it myself until I saw a copy at my local library book sale and was astonished to find that the author of Housekeeping had written a book on nuclear pollution.

    I didn’t think anyone was capable of getting me to read a book on this subject, but I was riveted from the first sentence: “The largest producer of plutonium in the world and the largest source, by far, of radioactive contamination of the world’s environment is Great Britain.”Plutonium dumped into the sea from the notorious government-owned Sellafield Plant “has already been found in Ireland, Iceland, Sweden, Denmark and Belgium.” It is “perhaps not irrelevant to note … that Britain leads the world in lung cancer deaths.”

    This is scary stuff, written by a writer not given to hyperbole. “My attack,” she says,”will seem ill-tempered and eccentric, a veering toward anarchy, the unsettling emergence as lady novelist as petroleuse.” (I’m sorry to interrupt this eloquent diatribe, but I have to point out the use of the magnificent word “petroleuse,” which, after 30 minutes of frantic research, I discovered is the name for the women of the Paris Commune of 1871 who are accused of burning down a big chunk of Paris.) “I am angry to the depths of my soul that the earth has been so injured while we were all bemused by supposed monuments of self and intellect, vaults of bogus cultural riches … The grief come home to others while I and my kind have been occupied lies on my conscience like a crime.”

    With a passion and clarity missing from most political journalists, she strips away myths about British and American histories of social responsibility.Her conviction that the US’s commitment to social justice is considerably greater—considerably greater—than the UK’s is eye-popping. For instance, the relative state of government support for its citizens: “Why do the Land Grant Act, the Homestead Act, and the GI Bill, three distributions of wealth to the public on a scale never contemplated in Britain, have no status among political events when the dreary traffic in pittances institutionalized as the British Welfare State is hailed as the advance of socialism?”

    Contrary to the fears of American conservatives that the US is veering towards a British-type socialism, “Almost no one in the West spends as little on health care as the British, despite the fact that they lead the world in death rates from heart disease and lung cancer.”

    The bedrock British political assumption, she finds, “is that absolutely nothing belongs to the general public inalienably by the logic of collective interests or by right … public ownership of a bridge, a tunnel, or a river is for them a departure from the natural order of things.” It’s hard for an American to read these words nearly a quarter of a century later without a shudder as we recognize a similar attitude taking hold here. And with it comes an arrogance that rationalizes the right of the powerful to pollute what belongs to all of us: “It is a very comfortable thing,” she concludes, “to think that the greatest threat to the world is a decision still to be made, which may never be made—that is, the decision to engage in nuclear warfare. Sadly, the truth is quite otherwise. The earth has been under attack for almost half a century.” And by now, for nearly three-quarters of a century. It’s impossible to read Mother Country without wishing that Robinson would update the story.

    The Death of Adam: Essays on Modern Thought and Absence of Mind, The Dispelling of Inwardness From the Modern Myth of the Self (the paperback edition of which was released this year) are not arguments for the existence of God or the validity of Christianity in the mode of, say, C.S. Lewis’s Mere Christianity or G.K. Chesterton’s Catholic apologia Orthodoxy.She doesn’t go in for turf wars; there are no battles with secular liberals or right-wing evangelicals. She cites popular atheists such as Bertrand Russell and Christopher Hitchens only in passing.

    There are two main themes to these books. The first is that the liberal conscience of Christianity traces back to the Old Testament or, as she puts itin The Death of Adam, “The law of Moses puts liberation theology to shame in its passionate loyalty to the poor.” She also believes, fervently, that the origins of modern Protestant liberality, the kind that possessed the mid-19th century abolitionists, are to be found in Calvinism. Both theses came as surprise to me, though I will have to wait until I can find a large chunk of reading time before I can give assent.

    Her other and perhaps larger concern is that there is no essential divide between religion and science. “What I wish to question,” she writes in Absence of Mind, “are not the methods of science, but the methods of a kind of argument that claims the authority of science or highly specialized knowledge, that assumes a protective coloration that allows it to pass for science yet does not practice the self-discipline or self-criticism for which science is distinguished.” Science can tell us nothing about the purpose of life, nor can it even tell us about the origins of scientific principles, she says. Rather, she writes, “scientific phenomena often demonstrate, as physics and cosmology tend to do, that the strangeness of reality consistently exceeds the expectations of science, and that the assumptions of science, however tried and rational, are very inclined to encourage false expectations.”

    THIS IS PERHAPS a starting point for a dialogue between believers and nonbelievers. Robinson’s sentiments, after all, aren’t greatly different on this matter from those of Albert Camus, who wrote in The Myth of Sisyphus, “You explain this world to me with an image. I realize then that you have been reduced to poetry … So that science that was supposed to teach me everything ends up in a hypothesis.”

    Robinson, of course, is not a skeptic like Camus. She merely wishes to suggest, as she does in When I Was A Child, that:

    For almost as long as there has been science in the West there has been a significant strain in scientific thought which assumed that the physical and material preclude the spiritual. The assumption persists among us still, rigorous as ever, that if a thing can be ‘explained,’ associated with a physical process, it has been excluded from the category of the spiritual. But the ‘physical’ in this sense is only a disappearingly thin slice of being, selected, for our purposes, out of the totality of being by the fact that we perceive it as solid, substantial.

    Robinson regards When I Was A Child as “an archeology of my own thinking,” and the essays it contains are pointed to both secularists and fundamentalists. To the former she notes, “The contempt of a writer such as H.L.Mencken for popular religion is simultaneous and identical with his contempt for women’s rights and his melancholy belief in the futility of efforts to improve the status of black people.” To the latter, “In my Bible, Jesus does not say ‘I was hungry and you fed me, though not in such a way as to interfere with free market principles.’”

    I know little about Calvinism or the beauty of Protestant hymns or many other concerns that animate Robinson’s work. Before I sat down to read and reread her entire oeuvre I hadn’t realized how someone whose background and outlook were so different from my own could lead me to see things in a different way—to understand that “We live on a little island of the articulable which we tend to mistake for reality itself.” To read Robinson it to feel both outrage at the abuse of our planet while also caring about a dog of no special consequence.

    I ‘m not saying I want to see Marilynne Robinson sitting next to Grover Norquist on Bill Maher’s Real Time, where her voice might sound merely rhetorical. But it’s a voice that I want to hear—or overhear—more often, one that reveals a soul which burns with ahard gem-like flame and needs to be added to our national dialogue.

    More at The Atlantic

    Honor Flight: Reunion

    Posted on 12th May 2012 in The monuments of world

    Like a lot of vets, Ed Reiff came home from World War II eager to put what he’d seen and done behind him and get on with his life. He got married and had a son.

    The marriage didn’t last. After a year, his wife left San Diego and took their son, Jack, to the East Coast. And life went on.

    When Jack got married 45 years ago in Pittsburgh, his father, who had remarried and started another family, was there. But then both got busy with their lives again, and had very little contact.

    “It wasn’t any animosity or anything,” Jack Fleming said. “It was geography.”

    Ed Reiff is among the 105 WWII vets in Washington D.C. this weekend on an Honor Flight thanking them for their service. When he got to the hotel Friday night, a surprise was waiting: his son Jack.

    They hugged. “Thank God I was spared during the war because this is one of the best days of my life,” Reiff said.

    His daughter, Marcia Davis, made the reunion happen. She is her father’s guardian on the trip, and two weeks ago she contacted her half-brother and asked him if he would come.

    It meant driving more than four hours from Pittsburgh, then turning around and going home after dinner, but he said yes. “He looks great,” Fleming said, beaming at his father. “I’m tickled to death. And I’m happy to know he has some powerful genes he might have passed on.”

    Reiff, 87, said he is looking forward to today’s trip to the WWII Memorial and other monuments. He was in the First Marine Division in the Pacific theater during the war and saw action on Guadalcanal among other places. He said from his outfit of 135 men, three came home alive.

    He was a machine gunner. “I got even for Pearl Harbor more than once,” he said.

    Woonsocket cross in the crosshairs

    Posted on 30th April 2012 in The monuments of world

    Few church-state issues spark more argument than crosses and the Ten Commandments on public property. The Freedom from Religion organization has added the City of Woonsocket to its target list.

    Last year this group challenged a statute of Jesus on federal land and now it argues that a World War I memorial erected in 1921 violates the First Amendment. Putting aside a moment that the law on First Amendment issues are convoluted (the Supreme Court striking down a Ten Commandments display in a Kentucky courthouse while upholding a similar monument in a park on Texas State House grounds), I think that the city can win.

    The Woonsocket monument was erected to honor the sacrifice of soldier William Jolicoeur, presumably a Christian since the cross tops the monolith. In 1952 it was rededicated for three bothers killed in World War II, presumably also Christian. The cross merely confirms the religious beliefs of the honorees, not that of the city. There are many public cemeteries, including in my town of Barrington. Most of these cemeteries merely allow a family to mark the headstone with a religious symbol or not, at the family’s discretion. Arlington Cemetery certainly is a public burial ground, but the crosses are historic monuments since the cross has often been identified as a symbol of death. In effect the cross is passive as far as a town’s belief system. If the deceased in Woonsocket were Buddhist, Jewish or atheist, the symbol on top of the monument would mirror that reality.

    The real issue is whether the municipality (as opposed to the individual buried or commemorated somewhere) is promoting a religion. Certainly, grieving families who erect crosses on public land adjoining highways where their loved ones were killed in auto accidents merely are remembering their tragedy and, perhaps, warning others about speed, drunk driving, etc. Positing that a state is promoting religion by not tearing down highway crosses is a stretch. Should cities and towns dismantle sidewalk “shrines” erected to honor somebody tragically killed in war or crime because a sidewalk is public?

    The Freedom From Religion people have carried their fight too far. I believe in the separation of church and state, but incidental connection is not enough of a nexus to make it a public endorsement of a given religion. This attenuation was recognized in 2005 by the United States Supreme Court. That case involved 21 markers and 17 monuments surrounding the Texas State Capital commemorating the “people, ideals and events that compose Texan identity.” The “offending” monolith had the script of the Ten Commandments, two Stars of David and the Greek letters representing the word, “Christ.” The court held that a reasonable observer, mindful of the history, purpose, and context, would not conclude that this passive monument donated by an organization conveyed the message that the state was trying to endorse religion. The court also noted the propriety of the Decalogue within its own courtroom.

    Noting that the Ten Commandments are religious, the judges found that, nonetheless, they also have an historical context regarding foundations of law. The decision was noteworthy because the court also elucidated the need to avoid interfering with religious belief as the second half of the Amendment.

    This case can be applied to the monument, which merely marks the religion of the soldiers. The good news for Woonsocket is that they may have a winner on the monument, but the firefighter’s prayer and angel have to take flight!

    Mayor, solider's family say cross should stay

    Posted on 26th April 2012 in The monuments of world

    WOONSOCKET, R.I. –

    There have been plenty of outcries after an atheist group complained about the cross on top of a World War I memorial outside a city fire station.

    The mayor and the family of the World War I soldier whose name was first on the monument are speaking out.

    More than 90 years after the memorial was dedicated to his Uncle William, who died in the war, Lucien Jolicoeur is upset at the thought that someone would want to remove the cross that adorns the top.

    “I wouldn’t care whose monument it would be,” he said.

    Lucien still keeps picture s of a ceremony at the Woonsocket monument probably sometime in the 1950s. Lucien’s father was there also.

    Family members say he was a driving force behind the memorial to his brother.

    Lucien says faith is important to his family but believes the cross was meant more to replicate those used to mark the graves of fallen troops, like at Arlington National Cemetery.

     “What’s going to be next?  We going to plow all those crosses down?  It’s ridiculous,” says the fallen soldier’s nephew.

     “I believe in separation of church and state as much as the other guy but I don’t think it was meant to be carried out like this.  I think that’s a grave injustice.” It’s frustrating,” he said.

    Woonsocket Mayor Leo Fontaine received a letter from the Wisconsin-based Freedom From Religion Foundation saying the cross should be removed because it violates the separation of church and state.

    “There are men and women in this country who gave their lives for our freedom and the last thing we need to be doing is calling into question monuments that pay tribute to them,” Fontaine said.

    The mayor says he sees no problem with the cross. He called those seeking the removal of a cross on city property on constitutional grounds “knuckleheads.”

    Asked if he would be willing to go to court over the situation, the mayor said, “We’re looking at all of our options.” 

    Fontaine said the city will make sure that we do whatever it takes to defend the integrity of the memorial and at the same point doesn’t bring undue burden on the people of this city. But said they would not be moving the memorial anytime soon.

    The mayor says he would like to see the monument more prominently placed.  He says if there’s a silver lining to the controversy it’s that it’s drawing attention to the memorial which is in need of repair. 

    Fontaine said he’s had hundreds of calls and emails, including from law firms offering to defend against a potential lawsuit.

    The station reported that Maj. Gen. Reginald Centracchio, former head of the Rhode Island National Guard, is planning a rally for next week to keep the monument.

    Belfast opens new home for its legendary export: HMS Titanic

    Posted on 15th April 2012 in The monuments of world

    BELFAST, Northern Ireland – I knew before I left for Belfast that the world is divided into those who don’t care, and those who can’t seem to get enough of the doomed ocean liner Titanic, which sank on its maiden Atlantic crossing a century ago today off the coast of Newfoundland.

    The Belfast Titanic Society says there are more than 100 museums and monuments associated with the ship worldwide, and Belfast added to the list March 31 by opening a $150 million building on the slipway where the Titanic was built from 1909 to 1911. Tim Husbands, president of the foundation that runs Titanic Belfast, said the city “has, at last, a focal point for its Titanic and maritime heritage.”

    For my wife and me, the nautical stuff was secondary. We thought maybe the new Titanic Belfast space had room for us to make like Leonardo DiCaprio and Kate Winslet in 1997′s Titanic. We wanted to do the “flying sequence” in the film, where Leo and Kate stand, hopelessly in love, with arms trustingly outstretched at the bow of the liner.

    We’re suckers for that, and I don’t think we’re alone.

    But, Belfast is the perfect place to understand the Titanic not just as a romantic or fictive ideal, but as something anchored in economics, social history, technology, and innovation. That took us first to the Ulster Folk and Transport Museum, the ungainly name for a sprawling collection of exhibits in a wooded preserve about seven miles east of central Belfast.

    There’s a Titanic exhibit in domed buildings reminiscent of Quonset huts, with a snack bar, bookstore, seating for resting weary feet, and a welcoming pace that allows for slow absorption of the complex story behind the ship and its demise. Huge blowups of historic photos are hung on the curved walls and ceiling, and visitors walk over gantries and trusses as if they were at the 200-acre Harland & Wolff shipyard where the Titanic was built.

    To get a sense of the size of the ship, the Titanic was 42 percent larger than any ocean liner in the world in 1912. The ship was a bit narrower than the Eagles’ football field is wide, and at 882 feet, nearly three times the length of the Lincoln Financial Field gridiron.

    By contrast, the Costa Condoria that struck a reef Jan. 13 off the coast of Italy is 952 feet, proof that while they can make ships bigger today, they can still wreck them, too.

    It wasn’t just size that set the Titanic apart, we learned. Belfast was a provincial powerhouse of invention, and the ship was, for example, the first ocean liner with onboard refrigeration. First-class passengers enjoyed fresh fruit and vegetables, cheeses and savories, chilled strawberries and champagne.

    Of course, class and wealth mattered then as they do today. The first- and second-class passengers on the voyage – about 600 of the 2,200 people on board – had the best chow, private baths, and hot and cold water in their rooms. They could walk the decks any time they wanted, while the more than 700 third-class passengers were confined below decks, with only an hour on deck permitted daily – locked gates and armed guards enforced the rules. All of the third-class passengers shared only two bathrooms, one each for men and women.

    Titanic sank three hours after hitting an iceberg. More than 1,500 men, women, and children died because there weren’t enough lifeboats on the ship. There was room on Titanic for enough lifeboats to save 4,000 people, but the company cut corners on safety. Only about 700 passengers survived, yet there were almost 500 empty seats on the 20 lifeboats that were launched. Most of those who died were third-class passengers and crew.

    One of the crew lost was assistant ship’s physician John Edward Simpson. We met his great-nephew John Martin and great-niece Kate Dornan at the Belfast Titanic Society monthly meeting in March. Martin, a retired physician, spoke about his great-uncle and shared photos and eyewitness accounts of Simpson’s last minutes on the Titanic.

    “There were three survivors who spoke about Simpson,” Martin told the jammed auditorium. One of his nurses was so upset as the ship began to fall apart, he poured her a whiskey and water to calm her. “?’Let’s drink to the mighty Titanic,’ she said he joked with her.”

    “He went on deck to help load the lifeboats,” Martin continued. After securing the last boat, he gave his flashlight, a valuable and rare appliance for the day, to the engineer pushing off, saying he would no longer need it.

    “Goodbye, old man,” were his last words, according to witnesses, Martin said.

    Asked if his great-uncle was a hero, Martin paused a moment and offered, “If he was a hero, there were 1,500 other heroes that night taken by the Atlantic.”

    The next day, we met Susie Millar, a retired BBC broadcaster whose great-grandfather was an engineer on the Titanic. Her grandfather was 5 years old when the liner sailed down the Lagan River with his father, Thomas Millar, on board. Before he left, Millar gave the boy two pennies dated 1912 and told him not to spend them until he returned.

    “Of course, he never returned,” said Susie Millar, who drove us to the family cottage a few miles downriver, the site where her grandfather saw the ship and his father leave Belfast forever. “And my grandfather never spent the pennies. They’re on loan to the Titanic Museum in Pigeon Forge, Tenn.”

    Billy Scott, a native of Belfast and former British soldier, took us to see the great dry dock where the Titanic got its three propellers, rudder, and paint job. The plan is to permanently seal the dock so that visitors can descend into the immense cavity where once the Titanic lay.

    “They’ll be showing the old movies down there for the tourists soon,” said Scott, whose great-granduncles worked on the Titanic. “Should scare the pants off you.”

    And then it was time to walk through Titanic Belfast, which calls itself not a museum but a “sensory experience” about a “global brand.” The structure up close looks like a series of huge ships pulled close to the docks, their prows arching skyward.

    Inside, everything is digital and photographic presentation, with a few Disney touches – a mockup of the rudder, “molten” steel being poured for the hull, a huge gantry carrying workers to the top of the ship, and lots of archival film, including interactive media. The best part, the most arresting moment in our four days of trying to discover the Titanic in Belfast, came atop the building.

    From there, one looks out at the Titanic slipway, with the ship’s form outlined in lights. Then the unsettling truth becomes clear that where we were standing by a glass wall overlooking the docks below would be where Leo and Kate where doing the “flying” scene.

    Looking down made us almost ill, so terrifying was the height. Pause a moment, and you realize that that was just the bow of Titanic. The rest of the immense ship continued skyward.

    Leaving the building brought fresh challenges. After the first-floor cafe and bistro, the private elevator rises to the top-floor banquet area – where we got dizzy, and which is otherwise closed to tourists – and there’s a souvenir shop where Titanic books from scientific to social history to kids’ treatments filled shelves, along with T-shirts, refrigerator magnets, pencils, notebooks, calendars, wall hangings, and the like. (In the city, you can buy Titanic whiskey, Titanic potato chips, candies, and other oddities.)

    A rubber duck, though, brought me to sober reflection.

    Dressed like a ship’s officer on the Titanic, the toy reminded me that while the duck still floats, the Titanic and all those innocent souls are at the bottom of the sea.

    To comment, e-mail TravelTalk@phillynews.com.