From Norwood's Morrill Memorial Library: Touring the nation’s capital

Posted on 11th May 2012 in The monuments of world

In 1965, my parents packed our family of six into our Oldsmobile sedan and spent one month touring the country from California to Boston and back again. We first navigated south, stopping at over a dozen national parks along the way. Our trip home was to the north and included Niagara Falls and Reno, Nevada.

On that family vacation, I had my first lessons in navigation using multiple road maps and AAA tour books. I often won the front seat between my parents and spent hours studying the highways, motel amenities, restaurant offerings and sightseeing highlights in the guidebooks.

In this 21st Century, GPS devices guide us along the highways and our smart phones find our favorite coffee and food fixes. We have a plethora of websites to surf before we go and shelves of books, both in the stores and the library, with which to plan an itinerary.

My most profound memories on that trip in 1965, other than a weeklong family reunion in Boston, were those in Washington, D.C.

Recently, when Gerry and I realized that our grandson, Colin, would miss his eighth-grade trip to Washington, D.C. this spring because we will be attending a family wedding elsewhere, we quickly decided that we would make the trip to Washington. We traveled this year during April vacation at the time of the Cherry Blossom Festival.

You can read about Washington D.C.’s famous cherry trees in “Eliza’s Cherry Trees: Japan’s Gift to America,” a fabulous children’s picture book written by Andrea Zimmerman. I had always thought Lady Bird Johnson was responsible for the flowering cherry trees in Washington, DC. (While the Japanese government gave 3,800 trees to Lady Bird for the beautification of the capital city in 1965, the origination of cherry trees in Washington, DC began many years before.) Zimmerman explains in her book that Mrs. Eliza Scidmore tried to bring cherry trees to Washington for more than 24 years and finally succeeded in 1909. First Lady Helen Taft received a donation of 2,000 trees from Japan when Washington’s cherry blossom parade and festival became the highlight of a week in April each year.

Of course, on any trip to Washington, a visit to as many monuments as possible is a must. An overview in the book for adults, “Monuments and Memorials of Washington, D.C.” by Allan M. Heller, will help you decide which ones to visit. Besides the obvious memorials and monuments, the book includes information on monuments to American patriot Nathan Hale, the celebrated writer Henry Wadsworth Longfellow and inventors Albert Einstein and Benjamin Franklin and a check-off list so you can see and do everything.

The beauty of the city is, however, that you can visit most of the monuments on a long and leisurely afternoon walk. Both of J.S. Burrows’ books, “Korean War Memorial” and “Vietnam War Memorial” will introduce you to the reasons why these visits are so fundamental to Americans and those across the world. Brent Ashabranner’s “A Memorial for Mr. Lincoln” and “The Washington Monument: A Beacon for America” explain the planning and reverence for awe-inspiring monuments that never cease to amaze everyone who visits them. (The Washington Monument has been closed to the public since the earthquake in August of 2011 but it is still an astonishing beacon in the center of the mall.)

During our recent trip, we were able to visit the newly-dedicated Martin Luther King Memorial where visitors meet in a plaza somewhat isolated from Washington, D.C.’s bustling traffic on the tidal basis side off the mall. You can read more about this amazing monument in “The Stone of Hope: Martin Luther King Memorial and Master Sculptor Lei Yixin” by Mike Xiong.

Further along the tidal basin on the way to the Jefferson Memorial is the awe-inspiring FDR Memorial. It is a park-like wonder filled with waterfalls and life-sized sculptures. Read “The Franklin Delano Roosevelt Memorial” by Ted and Lola Schaefer.

No trip to Washington, D.C. would be complete without seeing the Capitol or the White House from every angle. This is not as easy as it used to be; 9/11 changed much of the world for us and visits to these notable buildings and grounds are no exception. With our noses pressed to the fence along Constitution Avenue, I was excited to see the White House victory garden planted by Michelle Obama and a beehive, which takes center stage. Robin Gourley’s book for children, “First Garden: The White House Garden and How It Grew” explains how this natural feast came to be. Other terrific children’s books are “The White House: An Illustrated History” by Catherine O’Neill, or “Our White House: Looking In and Looking Out” by the National Children’s Book and Literary Alliance.

In this column, I’ve left out so many of the must-see places – the Arlington Cemetery where we walked among the graves of the three Kennedy brothers and the Tomb of the Unknowns. And, of course, no visit to Washington, D.C. would be complete without the Smithsonian museums such as the National Air and Space Museum where a new exhibit dedicated to the Wright Brothers was a remarkable adventure for us.

Martha Day Zschock has written many delightful books that travel through places using the alphabet and “Journey Around Washington, D.C., from A to Z” is one of them. Another terrific journey is “Capital! Washington D.C. from A to Z” by Laura Krauss Melmed. Another overall tour of Washington, D.C. is the late Edward Kennedy’s “My Senator and Me: A Dog’s View of Washington, D.C.” illustrated by New England author/illustrator David Small.

Before you plan your next visit, pick up an armful of children’s books or a stack of tour books to  introduce your family effortlessly and effectively to one of the best places to visit in this country, Washington, DC. If you would like to reserve any of these titles in DVD or CD version please call the Reference or Information desks of the library, 781-769-0200, or reserve them in the Minuteman Library catalog.

Maps and monuments define Gregor Turk solo show

Posted on 10th May 2012 in The monuments of world

By Felicia Feaster

For the AJC

You could say that artist Gregor Turk has two fixations: monuments and mapping. Over a long career working in the city’s art scene, the Atlanta native has often focused on the kind of historical markers that identify Civil War sites or landmark Atlanta buildings. Other work has focused on the kinds of strange icons that dot maps and provide reference points to roads or water features.

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But in his solo show at the Museum of Contemporary Art of Georgia, “Terminal Velocity,” Turk has brought those two strains of his work together into a far more satisfying whole. Call it the advantage of time, space and an infusion of cash. Turk is the third recipient of this year’s Working Artist Project award, which affords local artists an exhibition at MOCA GA, a studio assistant and a stipend.

Part of the immediate appeal of Turk’s show are his materials of choice: rubber inner tubes and the metal car plaques that identify a car as a Cherokee or Mercury. Those materials conjure up a very specific modern reality, one defined by passive visions of exploration, historical touchstones, cars and the Atlanta highway system that reappears many times as a visual motif in “Terminal Velocity.”

In three works in his “Metronesia Series,” Turk has created maps of the Perimeter and its intersecting roadways. The first map is composed of those metal car plaques arranged to form the Perimeter; the second Perimeter is composed of inner tubes and the third of fall leaves. What remains overwhelming in those pieces is a sense of everything, nature, progress, even the rhythms of life defined by that highway grid. In a driving city like Atlanta, “Terminal Velocity” will hit many of us very close to home.

Turk has boiled down the fast-paced, modern world into something elemental and stark, akin to hieroglyphics or cave drawings.

The strangest, and also the funniest, pieces in the show are the monuments — also constructed of tire rubber — that Turk has placed in the gallery’s four corners. Like the Washington Monument, Turk’s obelisks sport that familiar spire-form but have all been rendered in black rubber. “The Aggrandizer” is a sad, partly deflated rubber obelisk attached to a bicycle pump for a quick infusion of air. The piece offers a funny riposte to the proud, unassailable obelisk form. Turk takes a similarly humorous road in a series of four works on paper formed from rubbings of those metal car plaques. “Cosmos” for instance, forms its perimeter shape from Pioneer, Aries and Mercury car plaques. “Menagerie” is formed from metal signs for Pinto, Lynx, Bronco and Colt.

Turk’s point is that for all that talk of animals, exploration and wild, open vistas in those aspirational car names, we are contained and cosseted explorers, locked within perimeters, stuck on our asphalt tracks.

While all parts of the show don’t always gel perfectly, there is an ambition and a grappling with big ideas that marks this as a significant step in Turk’s career.

Bottom line: A clever, visually appealing expansion of the artist’s fixations.

Art review

“Gregor Turk: Terminal Velocity”

Through July 14. 10 a.m.-5 p.m. Tuesdays-Saturdays. $5 nonmembers; $1 students with ID; free to members. The Museum of Contemporary Art of Georgia, 75 Bennett St., Suite A-2, Atlanta. 404-367-8700, www.mocaga.org.

Shameful who fled from the battlefield, Saakashvili secretly removed the monument to Stalin’s war-opposition winner

Posted on 10th May 2012 in The monuments of world

Labour Party of Georgia demands from Georgian authorities to return the monument to Joseph Stalin in his place in the Centre of the city of Gori. In a special statement, circulated on 9 may victory day held.

“The Labour Party of Georgia congratulates the people of the former Soviet Union, Europe, with the victory over fascism in the second world war, and demands the return of the monument of Stalin in the Centre of Gori”,-said in a statement.

The labour party declared the solidarity of all participants and Veterans of the war and considered shameful by the fact that the monument of the Commander-in-Chief of the army, winning the second world war, was secretly removed from the pedestal and pereprâtan. “This order issued a disgraceful who fled from the battlefield the destroyer of their homeland, Wai-President of Georgia Mikhail Saakashvili,” the statement said.

The opposition has accused the current leadership of Georgia in destruction and destroying many cultural sites, including monuments erected in honour of the victory over fascism, and demands that the leaders of Member States of the anti-Hitler coalition forced his colleague Saakashvili to recover and return to their former places of deliberately vandalizing destroyed and stolen monuments and memorials.

“The Opposition neoliberal′no-imposed an oppressive regime is a form of fascism 21-st century, and the world must not turn a blind eye to this bitter reality,” consider the Georgian labour party. Monument

Stalin was removed from the central square in Gori on the night of 24 June 25, 2010, and moved to a nearby House-Museum of Stalin. In December 2009, the Monument was demolished in Kutaisi military glory, and, during the demolition killed a mother and her teenage daughter. They lived in a house near the monument, and the explosion debris stones fell into the yard of their house. In place of this monument is erected a new building of the Parliament of Georgia.

Urban Adventures Settles into Two National Capitals: Washington, D.C. and London

Posted on 8th May 2012 in The monuments of world

Washington, D.C. (PRWEB) May 08, 2012

Launching with two unique tours, Washington, D.C. Urban Adventures shows off the U.S. capital in a unique and innovative way: by eCruiser. On both tours, guests are transported across the city in small electric vehicles that afford unparalleled access to the city’s famous monuments and exciting local neighborhoods.

“Washington, D.C., puts a great experience out there that hasn’t previously been available,” says Tony Carne, General Manager of Urban Adventures. “I think many people are surprised to learn the distances you need to walk to cover all of the main sights in D.C. Using the eco-friendly eCruisers means you don’t have to walk miles; you spend your time doing the important stuff, all with the helpful expert advice of a Washington, D.C., local. Our Urban Adventures tours give you a great overview of the main sites, as well as the kinds of unique and hidden gems that make all Urban Adventures tours so special.”

Washington, D.C. Urban Adventures owners and operators, George and Judy Palmer, first joined the company by leading tours in Annapolis, Maryland, and have taken a unique and progressive approach to day tours in both cities by offering trips in eCruisers. Their tours in Washington, D.C., are different from the norm and their commitment to innovation and responsible travel exactly exemplifies Urban Adventures values.

“We’re very excited to see Washington, D.C. Urban Adventures ready for the season ahead,” affirmed Carne. “Washington, D.C. Unveiled, which covers the capital’s must-see monuments and memorials, sets off daily at 10:00 a.m. Washington, D.C. Today explores local lore in the city’s less-touristed neighborhoods of Foggy Bottom, Chinatown and Eastern Market. The trips departs daily at 1:30 p.m. Both tours last approximately two hours and cost US$45.”

Across the Atlantic, the big news in the UK capital of London is the announcement of the winners of the search for a new London Urban Adventures partner. Pulled from a pool of very high-quality entries, Paul Fitzjohn and Alicia Sheber were welcomed to the Urban Adventures family. They have already taken the reins of London Urban Adventures.

“I’m so glad we didn’t take the traditional route in finding a management team for our London business, and instead put it out there for the whole world to be involved,” commented Carne. “We interviewed three incredible candidates and it’s safe to say that we wouldn’t have found them through a traditional job search. We weren’t looking for someone who wanted a job. We were looking for someone with a passion and enthusiasm for travel in general and London in particular. We definitely found that.”

Both Fitzjohn and Sheber come with a wealth of experience, Fitzjohn with several years as a Blue Badge Guide and Sheber with a solid background in marketing. They are confident of their ability to carry London Urban Adventures successfully through this busy year of big events.

At the moment, London Urban Adventures has seven tours, including two cycling day tours – one to Hampton Court Palace and the other to Windsor Castle – perfect for a summer pedal in London. There are also several walking tours that visit London’s diverse markets, neighborhoods and histories.

“Whether you fancy London or D.C. this summer, Urban Adventures is your source for unique, local day tours, led by some very excited and enthusiastic teams,” concluded Carne. “We have a fantastic summer ahead and hope that we can share it with as many ‘Urban Adventurers’ as possible.”

About Urban Adventures
Urban Adventures are day tours with a difference, led by passionate locals who aim to show people a mix of world-famous sites and hidden gems while uncovering back streets, local hotspots, and quirky landmarks. Urban Adventures operates in more than 85 cities worldwide, and supports local communities and the environment through a commitment to responsible travel. Urban Adventures was launched in October 2009 by Intrepid Travel and the WHL Group, and since its inception, Urban Adventures has hosted over 50,000 satisfied travelers.

For more information, visit http://www.urbanadventures.com or contact Tony Carne, General Manager, at tony(at)urbanadventures(dot)com, +61 3 9473 2626.

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The world's largest chess piece is unveiled in St. Louis

Posted on 7th May 2012 in The monuments of world

ST. LOUIS • It’s 14.5 feet high, weighs 2,280 pounds and is yet another example of the seemingly unlimited financial resources to make St. Louis the country’s chess capital.

Now you can add the “World’s Largest Chess Piece” to the list of St. Louis monuments.

The king piece sits on a platform, a permanent fixture in the Central West End.

It’s the latest effort of the Chess Club and Scholastic Center of St. Louis to promote chess in the city, and was unveiled just after 9 a.m. on Monday.

“This piece serves as a monument to the chess culture we are creating in St. Louis,” said Mike Wilmering, spokesman for the club.

It’s also an unabashed public relations move. Still, it’s hard not to smile at the ambition behind it.

Despite its size, the piece took less than a month and a half to build — thanks to R. G. Ross Construction, a local company that formed the piece in a secret location in the Gravois Bluffs shopping center.

“We had this idea,” Wilmering said. “We were thinking: where are we going to put this?”

The patio in front of the World Chess Hall of Fame, just across the street from the chess club, seemed like the perfect place.

The announcement about the piece was timed to promote the 2012 U.S. Chess Championships, which begin on Tuesday and have been hosted by the club since 2009.

The piece, Wilmering said, has already been certified by the Guiness World Records as the largest in the world. The previous record-holder is in Sweden and was built by Mats Allanson in 2003. Allanson’s piece is also a king, but a mere 13.1 feet high, according to the Guiness website.

Wilmering said he and members of Weber Shandwick, the Chess Club’s public relations firm,  came up with the idea in March.

R. G. Ross Construction used an enlarged three-dimensional image of a king piece as a model. The company documented the construction with time lapse photography.

“This would be a great piece to have on the Discovery Channel someday,” said Vince Mannino, president of R. G. Ross. “This is by far the most unique project we have ever done.”

The world record is the latest in a host of moves the club has made the past few years. It brought the U.S. Chess Championships to St. Louis in 2009; inspired the country’s top-ranked player, Hikura Nakamura, to move to here; and prompted Chess Hall of Fame to relocate to St. Louis from Miami.

None of that would have been possible without retired businessman and philanthropist Rex Sinquefield, who financed the chess club, which opened in 2008.

The club is considered one of the swankiest in the country and some chess experts have called Sinquefield the most significant benefactor of chess in America.

“I don’t know what we are going to do next year,” Wilmering said.

Staten Islanders notice monuments on the move

Posted on 7th May 2012 in The monuments of world

STATEN ISLAND, N.Y. — Like thousands of Staten Islanders, Joe Sheirer sees it every day, on the way to work, from the express bus as he walks through Battery Park — the towering bronze sphere which used to grace a fountain in the heart of the World Trade Center plaza, and miraculously survived the attacks Sept. 11, 2001.

During lunch hour, the Eltingville 34-year-old sometimes strolls over to the “The Sphere for Plaza Fountain,” watching tourists click photos in the shadow of the 25-foot-tall dome created by German sculptor Fritz Koenig as a symbol of world peace through trade.

Nicked and battered but still intact, it was moved by the Port Authority of New York and New Jersey to Battery Park six months after the towers’ collapse. On the first anniversary of Sept. 11 attacks, an eternal flame was lit at the base of the Sphere as a tribute to those who perished.

But with a $16-million remake of Battery Park about to get under way, the Sphere will be moved again in upcoming weeks. And nobody has said to where.

“It’s a piece of history and it’s a symbol of what happened and it’s an absolute shame that we would hide it away in storage when it should be displayed,” said Sheirer, whose father, the late Richard J. Sheirer, was the city’s director of the Office of Emergency Management at the time of the attacks, and became a very public figure in the aftermath of the tragedy. “It’s got a special meaning.”

Sheirer launched an online petition beseeching the Port Authority, which owns the sculpture, to keep the potent symbol in a public space, rather than hauling it to its covered storage area for 9-11 mementos at John F. Kennedy International Airport.

His effort joins a growing chorus of voices calling for dignity for the sculpture. More than 7,000 have signed a petition launched by Bronx resident Michael Burke, the brother of Capt. William F. Burke Jr. of Engine Company 21, who was killed on Sept. 11, 2001. Save the WTC Sphere calls for the sculpture to be moved to the World Trade Center Memorial plaza, an idea previously nixed by city officials.

According to the Port Authority, there are no definitive plans as yet for the 25-ton sculpture, which must be disassembled and loaded onto a flat-bed truck to be transported anywhere.

“We have to find a temporary home for it while the World Trade Center is under construction and then we have find a permanent home for it,” said P.A. Spokesman Steve Coleman.

He declined to elaborate, or give any indication of sites being discussed as potential temporary or permanent homes for the work of art, including scuttlebutt that an ideal site would be Snug Harbor Cultural Center and Botanical Garden, Livingston.

He would not confirm or deny talk that the eventual home for the Sphere will be a park across from the World Trade Center Memorial.

The time line for the Sphere’s removal — at some point in the next few weeks as Coleman tells it — is not negotiable however, as the reconstruction of Battery Park will begin in the summer.

Planned for the area around where the Sphere now sits, is a perimeter bike way and walkway. The internal path system will also be reconfigured, with landscaping, including a central “Town Green,” upgraded furnishings and paving and lighting.

Nine monuments, including the Sphere, will be restored or relocated as part of the project; construction on Battery Park is expected to last about a year and half. 



Charming Melaka

Posted on 5th May 2012 in The monuments of world

by Karen Bong. Posted on May 6, 2012, Sunday

THIS old world charm has over 600 years of history reflected in its buildings, mouth-watering cuisine and unique cultural heritage from centuries of Portugese, Dutch and British rule.

OLDEST PROTESTANT CHURCH: The Christ Church of Melaka, painted in coral red, is a Dutch heritage that serves as reminder of their presence in Melaka.

Located on the west coast of peninsular Malaysia, about 150km from Kuala Lumpur, Melaka takes only slightly over an hour to reach overland.

The best mode of travel for tourists and visitors is by bus. Many long-distance expressbuses connect Melaka with Kuala Lumpur, Seremban, Johor Bahru and other parts of the peninsula.

From Puduraya Bus Station in Kuala Lumpur, you  can choose from several bus operators to go down to Melaka.

On our journey, our driver, Imran, ran us through a brief but rich historical background of Melaka – from its birth as a simple fishing village to its current status as a World Heritage City.

Established in 1403, it was an important trading post in Malaysia’s early history and attracted traders the world over.

We took a walking tour to various parts of the city guided by Imran, noting important landmarks and learning the secret histories behind places such as Porta De Santiago, Melaka Sultanate Palace and Jonker Street. The monuments and architecture took us back to the early beginnings of the many different peoples who have settled here. We caught a glimpse of Melaka as it was lived and felt throughout history.

Duck tour

Introduced in 2009, it was dubbed Malaysia’s first land-and-sea escapade. This “duck bus” is an amphibious transport truck developed by the US during World War II.The journey takes about 45 minutes, starting and ending at the Menara Taming Sari.

The duck named ‘Quaker 1’ starts on land, covering several interesting sites such as A’ Farmosa Fort, Dataran Pahlawan Megamall and Mahkota Parade.It then enters the sea at Melaka Island and cruises along the famous Straits of Melaka with a panoramic view of the historical city, including the floating Selat Negeri Mosque.

BEAUTIFUL: The floating mosque — Selat Negeri Mosque — looks as if it’s floating when the water rises near the platform level.

Tickets for the tour – RM38 for adults and RM22 for children – can be purchased at the yellow kiosk next to the Menara Taming Sari.

The museum at the foot of St Paul’s Hill replicates the palace of Sultan Mansur Shah who ruled Melaka from 1456 to 1477.

The building is made of only two types of hardwood – cengal and asak – whereas the roof is made of belian wood with only wooden pegs to hold the structure together. Not a single nail is involved.

It mainly displays exhibits in the form of artefacts, prints, photographs and drawings related to the history and cultural heritage of the Malay Sultanate of Melaka and the various communities which came to settle there during that period.

The three-storey building is divided into eight chambers and three galleries, including chambers of the Royal band, weaponry, decorative arts, emissaries and gifts, a recreation hall, an audience hall and an Islamic hall.

Porta De Santiago

This is only surviving gate of the A’ Famosa Portugese fortress built in 1512 under the command of Portuguese admiral Alfonso d’Albuquerque.It had a strong foundation and thick walls, and used boulders taken from the ruins of palaces, mosques and tombstones.

Armed with cannons, the fort with its four gates was once an object of fear and respect among the people of this city.It was badly damaged during the Dutch invasion in 1641. The Dutch later repaired it and renamed it VOC. Its significance started to fade when the British settled there in the early 19th century.

The British had almost destroyed the whole structure when British official Sir Stamford Raffles intervened in 1808. He was able to stop the destruction but unfortunately, what is left today is nothing more than a gateway called Porta de Santiago with an embossed VOC emblem above it.

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Unesco denies involvement in ayutthaya threat study

Posted on 5th May 2012 in The monuments of world

A report listing Ayutthaya among 10 historic sites in Asia under threat due to overdevelopment and mismanagement was not prepared by Unesco, a spokesman from the Fine Arts Department says.

Unesco contacted the department to clarify the origins of the report.

The list was prepared by the NGO-owned Global Heritage Fund, which is a different entity than Unesco’s World Heritage Fund.

Staff at Unesco’s Bangkok headquarters clarified the matter with the Fine Arts Department, fearing that the bodies’ similar names could create confusion.

Unesco has listed the palace and temple ruins of the former capital as a world heritage site.

”The names of the two funds can cause confusion when they are translated into Thai because of their similar meanings,” Fine Arts Department chief Somsuda Leyavanija said yesterday.

Unesco’s World Heritage Committee is scheduled to meet in St Petersburg in Russia between June 25 and July 5, but it is not clear whether the group will discuss world heritage sites which are under threat and require restoration.

”There is currently no such item on the agenda,” Ms Somsuda said.

Global Heritage Fundexecutive director Jeff Morgan earlier listed Ayutthaya as among historic sites in Asia under threat due to a variety of factors from unsustainable tourism development, poor management and wars.

Ayutthaya was severely hit by flooding late last year which damaged 158 historic monuments, the fund’s report noted.

The report added that the government has not provided an adequate budget to restore flood-damaged sites.

The Fine Arts Department, while admitting the Ayutthaya historic zone is facing encroachment from vendors and urban development, denied that the core of the city’s ancient beauty is under threat.

Culture Minister Sukumol Khunploem also insisted the government granted adequate funding to restore 311 historic sites in Ayutthaya after the flood.

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Lonely Planet's guide to Poland

Posted on 5th May 2012 in The monuments of world

Medieval Teutonic Castle over Nogat river at sunset. Picture: Witold Skrypczak/ Lonely Planet Source: National Features

Sunset on Baltic Sea beach in Swinoujscie at Uznam Island. Picture: Witold Skrypczak/ Lonely Planet Source: National Features

POLAND wears its charms lightly, but venture into its heart and you’ll find medieval cities, fairytale castles and untouched wilderness, served with an invigorating shot of vodka.

–  A thousand years

Poland’s roots go back to the turn of the first millennium, leaving 1000 years of twists and turns and kings and castles to explore.

History buffs of the World War II vintage are well served. Tragically, Poland found itself in the middle of that epic fight, and monuments and museums dedicated to its battles and to Poland’s remarkable survival can be seen everywhere.

There’s a growing appreciation, too, of the country’s rich Jewish heritage. Beyond the deeply affecting Holocaust memorials, synagogues are being sensitively restored, and former Jewish centres, such as Lodz and Lublin, have set up heritage trails so you can trace this history at your own pace. 

– Castles to log cabins

The former royal capital of Krakow is a living lab of architecture over the ages. Its nearly perfectly preserved Gothic core proudly wears overlays of Renaissance, Baroque and Art Nouveau, a record of tastes that evolved over the centuries.

Fabulous medieval castles and evocative ruins dot hilltops elsewhere in the country, and the fantastic red-brick fortresses of the Teutonic Knights stand proudly in the north along the Vistula.

At the other extreme, simple but finely crafted wooden churches hide amid the Carpathian hills, and the ample skills of the country’s highlanders are on display at the region’s many skansens (open-air ethnographic museums). 

– Heart-warming food

If you’re partial to good home cooking, the way your grandmother used to make it, you’ve come to the right place. Polish food is based largely on local ingredients such as pork, cabbage, mushroom, beetroot and onion, combined simply and honed to perfection.

Regional specialities such as duck, goose, herring and even bison keep things from getting dull.

As for sweets, it’s hard to imagine a more accommodating destination. Cream cakes, apple strudel, pancakes, fruit-filled dumplings and a special national mania for lody (ice cream) may have you skipping the main course and jumping straight to dessert. 

– Fresh-air pursuits

Away from the big cities, much of Poland feels remote and unspoiled. While large swathes are flat, the southern border is lined with low mountains that invite days of solitude.

Marked hiking paths criss-cross the country, taking you through dense forest, along broad rivers and through mountain passes. Much of the northeast is covered by interlinked lakes and waterways that are ideal for kayaking and canoeing no experience necessary.

– Top experiences

* Stately Krakow

A unique atmosphere wafts through the attractive streets and squares of this former royal capital, with its heady blend of history and harmonious architecture.

From the vast Rynek Glowny, Europe’s largest medieval market square, to the magnificent Wawel Castle on a hill above the Old Town, every part of the city is fascinating.

Add to that the former Jewish district of Kazimierz and its scintillating nightlife (and then contrast it with the communist-era concrete structures of Nowa Huta) and it’s easy to see why Krakow is an unmissable destination. 

Wroclaw

Throughout its turbulent history, this city on the Odra River the former German city of Breslau has taken everything invaders could throw at it, and survived.

Badly damaged in World War II, it was artfully rebuilt around its beautiful main square, with an intriguing complex of buildings at its centre. Another attraction is the Panorama of Raclawice, a vast, 19th-century painting hung about the walls of a circular building.

Beyond historical gems, Wroclaw has a vibrant nightlife, with plenty of dining and drinking options on the narrow streets of its lively Old Town. 

Great Masurian Lakes

Sip a cocktail on the deck of a luxury yacht, take a dip, or don a lifejacket, grab your paddle and slide off into a watery adventure on one of the interconnected lakes that make up this mecca for Polish sailing and water-sports fans.

Away from the water, head for one of the region’s buzzing resorts, where the slap and jangle of masts competes with the clinking of glasses and the murmur of boat talk.

In winter, when the lakes freeze over, cross-country skis replace water skis on the steel-hard surface. 

Baltic beaches

The season may be brief and the sea one of Europe’s nippiest, but if you’re looking for a dose of sand, there are few better destinations than the Baltic’s cream-white beaches.

Many people come for the strands along one of the many coastal resorts, be it hedonistic Darlowko, genteel Swinoujscie or the spa town of Kolobrzeg. 

 Malbork Castle

Medieval monster mother ship of the Teutonic order, Gothic blockbuster Malbork Castle is a mountain of bricks held together by a lake of mortar. It was home to the all-powerful order’s grand master and later to visiting Polish monarchs.

They have all now left the stage of history, but not even the shells of World War II could dismantle this baby. If you came to Poland to see castles, this is what you came to see; catch it just before dusk when the sunlight colours the bricks kiln-crimson. 

Folk architecture

If the word skansen, referring to an open-air museum of folk architecture, isn’t a regular part of your vocabulary yet, it will be after your trip to Poland.

These great gardens of log cabins and timbered chalets make for a wonderful ramble. You’ll find what’s reputed to be the country’s biggest skansen in Sanok, in the Carpathians, but there are open-air museums around the country.

You’ll find remnants of old wooden churches and other buildings sprinkled throughout the mountains. 

This is an edited extract from Lonely Planet Poland (7th edition) by Mark Baker. Lonely Planet 2012. Published this month, $41.99, lonelyplanet.com

Kurdějov, one of the oldest winegrowing communities in the country

Posted on 2nd May 2012 in The monuments of world

South Moravia is well-known for its wine, which has been produced there at least since thirsty Roman soldiers far from home began doing so in the 2nd century. Move forward a thousand years or so, to the 13th century, and wine trading had become one of the most profitable businesses in the region. Those are the days that our destination for today stretches back to.

KurdějovKurdějov The village of Kurdějov is just a tiny pinprick on the map, about half-way between Brno and Břeclav, and there are just enough inhabitants for each of them to have their own day of the year. But while easy to overlook, Kurdějov is notable for many ancient features, all born of the fact that this is one of the oldest winegrowing communities in the region.

In fact the first time anyone mentioned Kurdějov in writing it was about wine, specifically the sale of vineyards, in 1286. Such was the local wine then valued that the four sons of the local nobleman agreed, around 80 years later, that “all the wine from the hills of Kurdějov be divided into four parts, so that none might be diluted”. To describe the village of those days is Antonie Němečková, a businesswoman and promoter of Moravian wine.

“Kurdějov is one of the oldest vineyard communities it the country, and whichever direction you look in, the hills there used to be covered in vineyards. The village was German-speaking and has more than 1,000 inhabitants. It was an affluent community, and between all the fields there were wine cellars. The fortified church is also a testament to the wealth of the village. The fortifications were erected to protect against the raids of those who wanted to plunder the village.”

There were lots of enemies, to be sure, from Turks and Hungarian rebels to rapacious Swedes. Most of them took the added effort of burning the village down, while the Transylvanian prince Gabriel Bethlen actually took 400 of the villagers as slaves. The people of Kurdějov were ready for the Tartars, at least. During their onslaught the villagers did a great deal of damage to them thanks to the useful presence of a fortified church – today one of the oldest monuments in South Bohemia. The church was here as early as 1350, with the fortifications added later. Miroslav Žemlička, a guide in the church, describes some of its interesting features.

“The bells come from 1456, 1469 and 1606. During the First Republic their value was estimated at half a million crowns, but today they are priceless. The tower adjacent to the church used to be 53 metres. Today its height is 45 metres because previous repairs and other work had to decrease it to keep it from falling over.”

Also part of the fortification is the chapel of All Saints.

“The encroachment of foreign troops or other enemies in the village could be prevented not only from the city walls but also through the crenels, or battlements with arrow slits, on the chapel. Previously the chapel and the church were connected by a bridge. It’s not here today because it collapsed sometime during the 18th century, so the church and the tower can only be reached from the outside.”

Miroslav ŽemličkaMiroslav Žemlička While lovely today, history has taken away some of the once grand features of the tower. Each floor originally had four smaller turrets, the tops of which had green weathercocks and stars. Harder for time to erase is the set of underground tunnels beneath the tower, accessible from the nearby wine bar, where Miroslav Žemlička offers a local speciality – spirit of almond (the neighbouring town of Hustopeče hosts the only almond orchard in the country). It’s a good courage booster for what lies ahead.

“Now I’ll be taking you into the local underground corridors. Among other things they served as a hiding place when the village was attacked. There are 340 metres of tunnels here, and one of them went all the way to the church in Hustopeče. If you go by the road, that’s three kilometres away, but in the 15th century these tunnels were 12 kilometres long. With land changing hands over so many years though, and various waves of settlement, the better part of the corridors did not survive. There is this section and then another in Hustopeče in the cellar of a pub.”

The corridors get narrower and lower and wind around more and more the further one goes. It used to be that neither the church nor the corridors were secured, and Mr Žemlička would visit them as a boy, so he has their every nook well mapped out. Today the area is accessible only on reservation.

“When you go into the corridors the first tunnel on the right is a dead end. At the end is a flight of stairs and beyond them a metal door. That was the original entrance to the cellars. And if you keep going straight then you’ll come to the church, which you will recognise because there are stairs going up that are covered by concrete slabs. That corridor goes up to the altar. We are about 20 metres under the surface now and it get’s quite damp. I’ll light your candles now and you can go inside…”

Though Kurdějov was originally a Czech village – which we know, among other things, because almost all of the recorded correspondence was written in Czech), a strong German influence beginning in the Renaissance overcame the settlement in the centuries to come. By 1921 there were 881 Germans, 19 Czechs and 16 ‘foreigners’ living in 212 homes there. After the Second World War, that situation radically changed. Antonie Němečková, again.

“After the expulsion of the Germans the population here went overnight from 1,000 to two people. So the village was doomed until they began resettling the borders. A lot of the people who received houses here didn’t know how to deal with owning property, they didn’t know how to take care of a house. So when the roof caved in on them they just moved to the next empty house. Gradually almost all the property in the village was destroyed in this way. After the revolution, in 1993, I met a married couple from Austria who were taking a picture of one of the houses, so I invited them to come have a look at what was new in Kurdějov. They had tears in their eyes and said they had been born in that house, not told us not to worry, that they don’t want it back, they had just come to look and see how it was doing.”

Today Kurdějov is far from a backwater. It is a much sought after retreat for private and business gatherings, with tennis courts, hotels and of course vineyards and wine tastings. There are plenty of different wines from different vintners on hand for you to try out, thanks in part to Mrs Němečkova’s business efforts.

“We are promoters of Moravian wine, and the way we decided to do that by building the biggest wine bars. We selected one hundred winemakers and took six wines from each. Then we selected from that, and now we support what we believe are thirty truly excellent winemakers.”

Kurdějov and its surroundings offer a beautiful environment for all kinds of interests, be they historical, sporting, or wine-related, and a visit to the nearby almond orchard in Hustopeče, a botanical rarity, is not to be forgotten. Almonds need a lot more warmth than the Czech Republic would normally offer, and out of what was once tens of thousands of trees only about 800 remain. But the town is determined to hold on to it in spite of the difficulties.

Photo: Zdeňka Kuchyňová

The episode featured today was first broadcast on November 9, 2011.