The evolutionary process

Posted on 20th February 2012 in The monuments of world
Boxing Day Sales..... Customer son the Myer elevators today.. Age News Pic taken by John Woudstra Dec. 26 2011

Retailers must adapt to the changing business world in order to survive. Photo: John Woudstra

CHARLES Darwin may not have been much of an investor but he’d be pleased at the way his theories have been applied to modern business. Successful businesses adapt to change and evolve. Those that don’t become extinct.

Given the challenges and opportunities thrown up by the rise of the internet have been obvious for the best part of a decade, the sudden panic from local retailers as they belatedly rush to embrace online makes you wonder.

After more than a year of uproar from the likes of Gerry Harvey, the rationalisation at Dick Smith, the problems with JB Hi-Fi, the collapse of Borders and Colorado, fashion chains suddenly have found themselves in the firing line. Solly Lew’s Premier Retail is desperately trying to remake itself and yesterday it was Speciality Fashion Group’s turn. A 64 per cent slump in earnings was accompanied by plans to shut 120 stores in the next three years and a pledge to boost online sales.

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Admittedly, the online threat to traditional retailers has hit with a bang. Consumer attitudes, and with it behaviour, shifted rather suddenly after the near-recession in 2008 when debt repayment took precedence over consumption. Suddenly, everyone began looking for a bargain. But far more than a mere price differential is at work. Over the past decade, online retailers have honed their distribution networks, offering consumers a home delivery service for a vast array of goods – everything from electronics to underwear – at a fraction of the normal retail price and all with click of a button. As an offering, it is just too good to refuse.

Last year, traditional retailers were crying foul. Cheap offshore groups were avoiding the 10 per cent goods and services tax and thereby undercutting the locals, they cried. But the big point of difference is far more fundamental. It is real estate, or rather the lack of it.

Where traditional retailers operate vast chains of stores in lavish emporiums at enormous expense, their online rivals work out of a single warehouse in the backblocks of a Chinese satellite city or somewhere in middle America.

That then prompts the question: What of those lavish retail malls, those massive monuments to consumerism that have sprung up around Australia and the developed world over the past 30 years?

If established retailers need fewer shops, and smaller areas for those premises they keep, it stands to reason that at some point down the track, mall owners will come under pressure from falling occupancy rates and lower rents.

The Lowy family, the force behind Westfield, the world’s biggest mall owner, seems unperturbed by the forces buffeting their industry. Last week, Steven and Peter Lowy exuded confidence in the future of the model, arguing that as one chain departs, another lines up to fill its space. Perhaps.

Suspicions about the super-mall model have been weighing on the minds of investors for five years, which in turn has weighed down the Westfield share price. It has lifted in recent days, partly because of a welcome lift in earnings, but mostly as a result of the company selling off a large swag of assets.

Westfield patriarch Frank Lowy’s great gift has been to identify trends early and capitalise on them. He was operating a Macquarie infrastructure model years before anyone at Macquarie ever thought of it. And he folded the model years before Macquarie almost came a cropper on the failed experiment. That he has decided there is more money in developing and managing – rather than owning – malls speaks volumes.

So far, there have been no real sign of a big rise in vacancies at the malls. But once bustling areas in nearby shopping strips clearly are under stress as For Sale and For Lease signs dot the streetscapes.

A look at sales by store category within Westfield’s Australian malls paints a picture of rapid change. Department store sales were down 7.5 per cent in the past 12 months while fashion, footwear and jewellery, and cinemas were off. Food, however, was a major growth area with supermarkets, catering and food retail all up.

Defenders of the mall model reckon the likes of Specialty Fashion, Premier Retail and even Billabong all suffer from the fickle nature of fashion – that they simply have outlived their trend-topping status. That may be so, but the trend to online shopping is accelerating and the rise of smartphones and the applications to which they can be put will further reduce the need for physical floor space.

A smartphone can now access a code on a billboard or in a magazine to deliver a full shopping experience.

It would be a foolhardy forecaster to predict that shops, emporiums and malls will become extinct, that our city precincts will end up abandoned canyons. Regardless of technology, human beings are social animals. They crave interaction and demand personal service, something that cannot be delivered by machine. Yet the fact is the manner in which we shop, and the way in which goods and services will be delivered is changing rapidly and that those who fail to adapt will not survive.

Treasures of Da Nang

Posted on 10th February 2012 in The monuments of world

From its sandy beachside retreats to its grand, historic monuments, Vietnam’s picturesque port city of Da Nang is an adventure through space and time.

MENTION Vietnam, and your friends are likely to start blabbing about their experiences in Hanoi or Ho Chi Minh City – of their to-die-for coffee, the chaotic streets, and the honking, raging motorcycles that almost always miss hitting pedestrians by a whisker.

But ask them about Da Nang, and they would probably go: “Where?”

I must admit, I hadn’t heard much about the place myself. Thinking it would be hot and humid, and with Sarah Jessica Parker in mind, I went with a suitcase packed with mostly sundresses and shorts. Big mistake.

I soon found myself shivering, even in a long-sleeved blouse and jeans as cold gusts of December wind stroked my bare neck. I discovered only later that temperatures can go as low as 18°C-24°C in the rainy months, from November to January.

Its drier months are between February and April, with temperatures from 19°C-31°C, while its hottest months are in May, June and July (24°C–34°C). In spite of my wardrobe mix-up, I was determined to make the best of my first trip to Vietnam.

Wedged between Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City, Da Nang is the country’s third largest city. Located on the picturesque central coast, it is a major port city. It may have neither the atmosphere of Hanoi nor the heady rush of Ho Chi Minh, but it has its share of sights.

If Ho Chi Minh is marked by its lively ballyhoo, then lush Da Nang is the mellow cousin with lots of R&R to offer. One of its biggest attractions is its beach. The white, sandy coastline lapped by the South China Sea has become a thriving locale for tourists.

Hovering at the edge of the ocean at the luxurious Hyatt Regency Danang Resort and Spa Hotel, I felt the icy-cold air against my skin. Unfazed, I shrugged off my urban shroud and made my way towards the chilly waters. The splashing waves, coupled with the soothingly cool weather as I dipped my feet in the ocean, yielded a calming effect.

Another night at the upscale Nam Hai Villa Resort proved to be a similarly lavish experience. The resort was built on the Hoi An beach based on feng shui principles. There, my travel companions and I (all 18 of us media folks) were chauffered to and fro in golf buggies to our welcome dinner (and what felt unsettlingly like the umpteenth eight-course meal of the day).

Like little kings and queens, we were serenaded by Vietnamese folk tunes throughout. The breezy luxury, amplified by the ocean humming relentlessly outside, made our stay seem somewhat surreal. But the most spectacular beachview in Da Nang, I thought, was the Non Nuoc Beach.

During the Vietnam War (1959-1975), American GI Joes who sought respite at the idyllic coast called the place China Beach. Mist-shrouded and with verdant plains that rolled out to what seemed like infinity, the beach took on the guise of an epic fantasy film. Bamboo boats in quaint, round shapes dotted the shore.

Known by locals as the thuyen thung (pronounced “twin tung”), the boat is an iconic symbol of Da Nang. Today, the humble creation is still used to shuttle fishermen to and from larger vessel anchored in deep waters.

Da Nang’s location also connects travellers to Vietnam’s three Unesco Heritage Sites: Hoi An Ancient Town, the Complex of Hue Monuments and My Son Sanctuary.

Trendy commercial tinsel and old world charms meet beautifully in Hoi An (pronounced Ho Yarn). Nestled about 30km south of Da Nang, Hoi An is a sleepy town with a laidback air. Previously occupied by the Chinese and the Japanese, the town now sees a colourful cross-cultural marriage with its winding lanes of Sino-Japanese styled shophouses. Most are over 300 years old and all still retain their original architecture, with many shops now catering to the tourist trade.

You should really keep a lookout for the made-to-measure shirts, blouses, dresses and suits offered here. It is estimated that there are over 400 such outlets. Me, I got a fitted, lantern-red silk cheongsam that was miraculously completed in just half a day! At US$55 (RM173), it is also comparatively cheaper than the rates in Malaysia.

Another must-see attraction in Hoi An is the Japanese Covered Bridge on the west end of Tran Phu Street. It was built in the early 1600s by the Japanese, roughly 40 years before they made an egress from the city, and was renovated in 1986. The bridge connects two sides of the town and bears numerous Japanese and Chinese influences, including beautifully-carved dragon and phoenix motives.

Come evening, food vendors flock at the stretches on both ends, offering mouth-watering meals of rice noodles and grilled dishes. As the sun sets, Hoi An comes to life as hundreds of glowing, balloon-shaped lanterns light up the facades of homes and shops.

As English is not widely spoken, it’s probably a good idea to engage a tour guide to help you get around. Our guide Hung, a stocky man in his 50s, told us adamantly: “We are not Chinese or Japanese. We see ourselves as purely Vietnamese.”

Then he added cheekily: “But I can speak a little Chinese, like wo ai ni (I love you).”

The Complex of Hue Monuments provides a gateway to the nation’s past. Also known as the Imperial City of Hue, this landmark in the north of Central Vietnam was built by the Nguyen Dynasty in the 19th century. Between 1802 and 1945, Hue was the imperial capital of the Nguyen Dynasty, not to mention the capital of Vietnam until the communist government made Hanoi the capital city.

We arrived at the main entrance called the Ngo Mon Gate on a rainy afternoon and were guided into the Forbidden City – once accessible only to the emperors and his entourage. The punishment for trespassing was death.

The white-stone path led to the administrative areas – the palace of supreme harmony, where coronations and other important meetings took place. The tall, sturdy walls whispered hints of an opulent past. To hobble across the drenched stone-steps in the rain, however, entailed the possibility of tumbling down to a mucky, moss-encrusted death. I treaded with fearful caution, clinging onto my travel companion, a travel writer, for dear life.

Most of the original structure still stands, including furniture, the throne and four red lacquer columns. The private quarters of the Forbidden City, however, show evidence of structural damage from the wars. Though it paints a tranquil picture today, the site has seen darker times.

In 1968, Hue witnessed a massacre when it was controlled by the Viet Cong for 28 days. In the months and years that followed the bloody battle, dozens of mass graves were discovered in and around Hue. Victims were found bound, tortured and sometimes, buried alive. Hue suffered further damaged when the Americans bombed the city in an effort to recapture it from the Viet Cong.

Another one of Vietnam’s monumental relics is My Son (pronounced Mei Sheng, which means “beautiful mountain”). Located at the Quang Nam province 69km southwest of Da Nang, My Son is a cluster of abandoned and partially ruined Hindu temples constructed between the 4th and the 14th century by the kings of Champa. However, due to the incessant downpour, we did not get to go there.

Nevertheless, here is the lowdown on majestic My Son – its temples were dedicated to the worship of Shiva, or Bhadresvara to locals. While My Son served as a site for religious ceremonies for the kings of the ruling dynasties, it was also a burial ground for Cham royalties and national heroes.

At the height of the Champa dynasty, over 70 temples, as well as numerous stele bearing historical inscriptions in Sanskrit and Cham, graced the site. The temples sat on a 2km-wide valley surrounded by two mountain ranges. Today, it is hailed as the longest inhabited archaeological site in Indochina, though a large part of its architecture was destroyed by US carpet bombing.

My Son is often compared to other historical temple complexes in South-East Asia, like Borobudur, Angkor Wat, Bagan and Ayutthaya. Adding to its mystique, archaeologists have discovered that the Champa did not use mortar at all to glue the bricks together. Their building secrets remain a ancient mystery.

As a whole, Da Nang makes the perfect escapade. Its laidback culture and voluminous landscapes bode especially well for urban dwellers who just want to kick back and relax. From its pristine shores to its grand, historical relics, Da Nang takes the traveller on an breezy adventure through space and time.

AirAsia flies from Kuala Lumpur to Da Nang, Vietnam, four times per week. For more details, log on to www.airasia.com. The writer’s trip was at the invitation of AirAsia.

Not quite over the tossing

Posted on 4th February 2012 in The monuments of world

The tradition of tossing yee sang will be put aside another year after tomorrow’s Chap Goh Meh but debate over where it all began continues to rage over cyberspace.

WHEN Prof Tan Wee Cheng made a Facebook posting for views on Singapore’s intangible cultural heritage in 2010, he did not expect a furore two years down the road.

What was meant to stimulate public debate has turned into another seemingly silly food fight between Malaysia and Singapore this time over the origins of the yee sang or yu shang as it is known in the city-state.

Some newspapers have reported Prof Tan’s comments as a formal proposal for yee sang to be listed on Unesco Intangible Cultural Heritage programme (ICH), causing the Singapore academic to lament: “My comments have clearly been taken out of context.”

Citizens from both sides of the Causeway took to social networking sites to stake their claim on the dish a mix of raw fish and shredded vegetables tossed in a variety of flavourful sauces and condiments.

One outraged Malaysian Twitter user Tan Keng Liang claims the Singaporeans have “messed up” their history. “Now (they have) confused Malaysian culture and food as theirs,” he tweets.

In trying to defuse the situation, Prof Tan has recently posted that the history and heritage of both countries are deeply intertwined and it does not really matter whether the dish originated from Malaysia or Singapore.

“What is more important is that the Chinese community and their friends from both sides of the border have a common dish that generates goodwill, happiness and wealth during the festive season,” he stresses.

While the debate continues on cyberspace, it has raised another pertinent question is Malaysia doing enough to promote its heritage? As a melting pot of cultures, Malaysia certainly has a lot to offer where heritage is concerned.

A continuous process

Heritage expert Khoo Salma Nasution explains that a heritage listing offers a means of protection for something inherited from the past.

“Heritage is a kind of intellectual property and listing it helps people become aware of it,” opines Khoo, who is chairman of the Penang Heritage Trust .

According to National Heritage Department commissioner of heritage Prof Emeritus Datuk Zuraina Majid, inscribing heritage whether on the national or international stage is a continuous process.

“There are many steps to take and work towards listing. This is happening every day,” she says.

Those who are worried over our yee sang losing its identity can rest assured as the dish has been inscribed as a national heritage in 2008.

Heritage can be divided into two natural and cultural. Natural heritage would include natural environment such as national parks.

Cultural heritage, meanwhile, is divided into tangible and intangible aspects. While tangible heritage includes buildings and monuments, intangible cultural heritage could be anything ranging from food to celebrations, festivals and traditional games.

Besides yee sang, other foods that have been classified into this category are nasi lemak, roti canai, tosai and chilli crabs. Wayang kulit, silat, Hari Raya, Chinese New Year, Deepavali, Kaamatan and Gawai are among the items listed in our national heritage register.

Asked about the purpose of inscribing the heritage, Zuraina quips: “It’s a recognition.”

Zuraina says there are about 1,000 items on our heritage list and the number is growing. The listing process started in 2006 following the establishment of the department.

Fifteen committees have been formed to study and identify built heritage, flora and fauna and archaeology among others. These committees are made up of experts, scholars, practitioners and NGOs who discuss the merits of inscribing a certain item into the list.

On average, it takes about three months to register an item although some can take up to a year or more.

“We have to deal with several agencies and this can cause delays,” Zuraina explains.

Some items have been classified as national heritage, which is considered to be “more significant” than heritage. Heritage is inscribed by the Commissioner of Heritage while National Heritage is inscribed by the minister, she elaborates.

Chingay, which originated from Penang, was inscribed as heritage in 2008. It will have its status upgraded to national heritage next week.

Singapore also has Chingay, which was celebrated yesterday in conjunction with the lunar celebration.

Khoo feels that more priority should be given to listing endangered culture as a means of protecting and preserving it for the next generation.

Getting recognised

Getting our heritage onto Unesco’s lists, however, is a tougher process.

“It must have significant importance to humankind and play a global role. It must have outstanding universal value. A world heritage site is a boost to the national identity and a pride to the nation. It is also known to have tremendous impact on tourism,” says Zuraina, adding that Malaysia was elected to the Unesco World Heritage Committee last year.

Under the natural heritage sites list, Unesco has inscribed the Mulu National Park in northern Sarawak and Kinabalu Park in Sabah.

Under the tangible culture list, Unesco has inscribed Malacca and Georgetown as historic cities of The Straits of Malacca.

The Archeological Heritage of Lenggong Valley in Perak is also currently being evaluated as a world heritage site. The results of the evaluation will be known in July, says Zuraina.

She adds that it took eight years before the Malacca and Georgetown dossier was finally submitted and recognised by Unesco, which accepts a maximum of 45 nominations a year with each member country submitting no more than two nominations.

As Malaysia is not a signatory to the 2003 Convention on Intangible Cultural Heritage (ICH), it does not have anything inscribed on the ICH list.

Zuraina explains that to ratify a convention is a long process, which requires work with the Attorney General’s chambers and has to be approved by the Cabinet.

She says they are encountering a few hiccups in terms of requirements from the Attorney-General’s chambers.

“We are working on this and hope it will be completed as soon as possible. It is important for the identity of a nation. It identifies our culture and our people. Mention tomyam and we think of Thailand. It is a selling point for tourism,” she says.

Zuraina points out that Indonesia already has batik listed under one of their ICH.

“Their batik industry was said to be slipping and getting batik inscribed was a way of promoting it,” she says, adding that there are numerous requests for the Unesco ICH list and they try to limit a country’s nominations to between five and 10 a year.

Khoo says that a lot of research is needed to justify the inclusion of a heritage in the Unesco list.

Indonesia’s inscription of batik in the ICH is not just about a listing but a commitment to protect that part of the culture, she says, adding that there is now a flourishing batik industry there.

“The people are able to make a living from it and develop it further. It’s part of their culture and deep understanding,” she explains.

More needs to be done

But lists aside, there is a feeling that more could be done to promote our Malaysian culture.

Khoo, for one, feels the tourism authorities could work on promoting the heritage sites more and that they should work hand-in-hand with the Heritage Department.

Datuk Ismail Ahmad, the co-owner of Restaurant Rebung concurs, especially when it comes to marketing our food. He believes that not much is being done to promote Malaysian food overseas and the promotion should be more aggressive.

The celebrity chef insists that as a food paradise with many diverse and exotic culinary offerings, “we should spoon’ the world with our food”.

Ai Weiwei documentary gets middle-finger salute at Sundance

Posted on 30th January 2012 in The monuments of world

When filmmaker Alison Klayman accepted a Sundance Film Festival award over the weekend for her documentary “Ai Weiwei: Never Sorry,” she asked everyone in the room to raise their middle fingers in salute to the Chinese artist whose online activism has repeatedly gotten him into trouble with Beijing authorities.

Why middle fingers, you may ask? The impolite gesture is a reference to Ai’s photographic series known as “Finger,” in which he brandishes his middle digit in front of famous national monuments and structures around the world, including the White House, the Eiffel Tower and Beijing’s Tiananmen Square.

The middle finger has become a kind of artistic calling card for Ai — a playfully rude symbol that encapsulates the artist’s jovial and rebellious spirit.

He formalized the gesture in a sculpture he created and titled “Marble Arm,” which depicts a disembodied arm and hand with a raised middle finger. When he was recovering from brain surgery in 2009, Ai photographed himself giving the middle finger to Chinese authorities, whom he accused of initiating the assault that led to the injury requiring surgery.

“Ai Weiwei: Never Sorry” won a special jury prize handed out in the Sundance festival’s documentary section. Klayman started the movie before the artist’s arrest in May and completed it after he was released on bail in June.

Klayman took a picture of the audience flipping the bird and said she will be sending it to Ai, who lives in Beijing.

RELATED:

Demonstrators in L.A. show support for Ai Weiwei

Ai Weiwei talks about art, his health and life out of prison

Art review: “Ai Weiwei: Circle of Animals/Zodiac Heads” at LACMA

– David Ng

Photo: Director Alison Klayman takes a photo after asking the audience to give her the middle finger as she accepts the U.S. Documentary Special Jury Prize: Documentary for the film “Ai Weiwei: Never Sorry” at the Sundance Film Festival. Credit: Danny Moloshok / Associated Press

The Death of Mao by James Palmer

Posted on 29th January 2012 in The monuments of world
  • Rana Mitter

  • Earthquake-Torn Tangshan
    Tangshan City in Hobei province after the 1976 earthquake. Photograph: Bettmann/CORBIS

    On 12 May 2008, a devastating earthquake ripped apart Wenchuan county in Sichuan province, southwest China. Military and civilian rescuers arrived swiftly at the scene, saving countless lives. Although more than 68,000 people died, the number of fatalities could have been much higher.

    1. The Death of Mao: The Tangshan Earthquake and the Birth of the New China

    2. by

      James Palmer

    3. Buy it from the Guardian bookshop

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    An indication of how much higher had been made clear on 28 July 1976, when the nondescript mining city of Tangshan in northern China was hit by an earthquake which measured 7.8 on the Richter scale and killed some 250,000 people. At the time, many Chinese regarded the disaster as a portent of great change. Already that year two major Chinese leaders, premier Zhou Enlai and senior marshal Zhu De, had died. And just two months later, on 9 September, Mao Zedong, the man who had led China for more than quarter of a century, himself went to meet his maker – Marx, of course.

    James Palmer’s book weaves together these two narratives of natural disaster and elite political intrigue to provide a lucid account of one of the eeriest moments in modern Chinese history. Palmer takes us inside Zhongnanhai, the party complex formerly inhabited by the emperors in the heart of Beijing, and brings to life the personalities jockeying for power as Mao lay dying of Lou Gehrig’s disease. On the left, the cultural revolution group radicals were led by Mao’s wife Jiang Qing, who once declared “Sex is engaging in the first rounds, but what really sustains attention in the long run is power.”

    The Chinese (and western) prejudice against powerful women has tended to give Jiang a uniquely demonic quality, and Palmer does well to remind readers of the role of figures such as the venal and overpromoted Wang Hongwen who whiled away the time during Mao’s deathwatch by riding his motorbike and watching imported Hong Kong movies (although not simultaneously). On the right, the dying Zhou, stricken with cancer, sought to promote Deng Xiaoping, whose economic reforms he thought essential to rescue China from the inward-looking xenophobia of the cultural revolution. Yet this was not a melodrama of evil and good, or even radicalism versus reform. Even Zhou had plenty of blood on his hands, voting for all Mao’s decisions to deepen the cultural revolution; in Palmer’s telling phrase, he “saved more monuments than people”.

    Just a few hundred miles away from the chairman’s deathbed, thousands of ordinary Chinese were about to meet a sudden and much more horrific end. The earthquake hit Tangshan with the force of 400 Hiroshima-sized atomic bombs, and its effect was felt as far afield as Beijing. Yet the help that arrived was patchy and almost all concentrated on the city, where the economically vital industrial equipment was located, rather than the rural areas. There were many heroic tales of people rescuing each other. There were also numerous cases of rape and looting. Palmer has interviewed survivors of the earthquake, some of whom had never before had a chance to tell their stories of struggling to survive in a city whose streets were lined with corpses and where help seemed very far off. One theme emerges clearly: the state was distracted by the crisis of succession and unable to deal with a more immediate and unexpected shock.

    Palmer’s account is written in enviably elegant prose. The narrative never flags and its judgments are humane and nuanced. The book argues that 1976 marks a moment of transition; after Mao’s death, a swift series of internal coups and arrests brought the Gang of Four low and set the stage for Deng to take power within two years of Mao’s death. The concentration on human stories means, however, that some of the factors that complicate the transition between the cultural revolution and the China of Deng Xiaoping are underplayed. We tend now to think of the era since Mao’s death as the emergence of China into a capitalist world (in which Beijing has become one of the most skilled players). But during the first decade of reform, immediately post-Mao, the aim of Deng and his faction was to create a more market-oriented socialism in a world where they would engage with the USSR as well as the United States. In addition, important legal and economic reforms had already begun in the early 70s, along with the opening to the US. The death of Mao was a moment when China sought to rethink the cold war, rather than escape it.

    Yet the significance of this book is reflected in the fact that a book entitled “The Death of Deng” would hardly have the same impact. Mao was the last Chinese leader whose death would unleash a personalised factional battle that could end in violence. In 2011, Hong Kong news sources wrongly reported the death of former Chinese president Jiang Zemin. The moment was embarrassing but not politically relevant. Yet just four decades ago, leaders did not retire and die peacefully. Former president Liu Shaoqi died as a prisoner in agony from medical mistreatment in a basement in 1969. Mao himself hung on as chairman to the last possible moment. Deng’s achievement after Mao’s death was to use his own force of personality to create a regular changeover of distinctly uncharismatic leaders.

    Palmer ends with a reflection on the Sichuan earthquake of 2008. There, effective rescuers arrived within hours, unlike in Tangshan. But the aftermath of 2008 has been just as murky as in 1976. Locals who have tried to investigate official corruption that might have allowed substandard construction that caused buildings to collapse have been arrested and intimidated. The artist Ai Weiwei, who has spoken out on behalf of the earthquake victims, has been subjected to a (still ongoing) cat-and-mouse strategy by the authorities. This account of the links between natural disaster and elite politics in China is a fine work of history. But its real relevance may be that it shows how much has changed in China, and yet how little, since 1976.

    • Rana Mitter’s Modern China: A Very Short Introduction is published by OUP.

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    Big dreams are riding on Mexico "superhighway"

    Posted on 29th January 2012 in The monuments of world

    BALUARTE GORGE, Mexico — High in the wicked folds of the western Sierra Madre, Mexican transportation officials have launched one of the most ambitious road-building projects in history, an experiment in social engineering as much as a structural one.

    Across a landscape of yawning ravines and sheer-sided ridges so rugged that locals call it el Espinazo del Diablo — the Devil’s Backbone — the Mexican government is laying down a $1.5 billion “superhighway” that promises to exorcise centuries of isolation and bring an economic boom to one of the country’s poorest and most troubled regions.

    When the 140-mile toll road opens, perhaps late this year, it will cut drive time between the interior city of Durango and the Pacific port at Mazatlán from seven hours to 2-½, conquering the Sierra’s unholy topography with 62 tunnels and 135 bridges.

    More important, Mexican officials say, by completing a modern transportation link between the Gulf of Mexico and the Pacific, the highway will bring wholesome economic development and the rule of law to a place dominated by some of the country’s biggest dope growers and drug gangsters.

    At the heart of the endeavor is the Baluarte Bicentennial Bridge, uniting the states of Durango and Sinaloa with a gravity-defying ribbon of concrete 1,321 feet above the Baluarte River.

    Completed this month, it is the highest bridge in the Western Hemisphere, the second-highest in the world and highest structure of its kind — cable-stayed bridge — on the planet.

    So high is the Baluarte’s road deck that the Eiffel Tower could fit beneath it, or two Washington Monuments stacked end to end. With its long white cables and graceful towers rising 587 feet at opposite ends of the precipice, it may be the most breathtaking structure built in Mexico since the pyramids went up at Teotihuacán, circa A.D. 100.

    “This is a symbol of the prosperity we want for Mexico, a symbol of the Mexico of the future,” President Felipe Calderón declared at the dedication ceremony for the bridge.

    That the Baluarte was built by Mexican engineers was a special point of pride, he said, proof that the country stands with the industrial giants of the world.

    But there is ample reason to worry that Mexico’s superlative road could also serve as a super-conduit for drug trafficking.

    With Calderón nearing the end of his term-limited, six-year presidency, the highway project is also emblematic of the legacy he wants to leave: one of economic stability and infrastructure modernization, not the savage drug violence that has left 50,000 dead since he took office.

    For the president and other officials in Mexico, it is taken as a matter of course that the superhighway will bring a reduction in crime and lawlessness, by giving young men an alternative to working for the cartels.

    Much of the marijuana, heroin and methamphetamine sold on U.S. streets comes from the farms and labs of the western Sierra Madre, a place that has long defied the civilizing intentions of government social workers and of missionaries before them.

    “Infrastructure means jobs, infrastructure means development, infrastructure means progress toward a more just and prosperous Mexico,” Calderón said in his speech. “By opening up these opportunities, we shut down other activities we don’t want.”

    But just as the highway will make Durango and other states in Mexico’s northwest interior attractive to foreign companies looking to build manufacturing plants, it will drive up the area’s strategic importance for the traffickers, who often smuggle their U.S.-bound cargo in legitimate commercial loads.

    It also will link two places that are already roiling with cartel violence. Last year, there were 307 homicides in Mazatlán, making it Mexico’s seventh most violent city per capita, while Durango was the fifth-deadliest, with 474 slayings, according to recent tallies.

    Since April, investigators in Durango have pulled 282 bodies from more than a dozen mass graves in and around the city, where the dominant Sinaloa cartel has been fighting off incursions by various rivals, including Mexico’s ascendant criminal power, Los Zetas.

    Now, local officials hope transportation engineers can accomplish what police and politicians have not, and bring security to the region with growth, not more guns.

    “The best way to fight crime and eliminate poverty is to create jobs,” said Francisco Gutierrez, top economic-development official for the state of Durango.

    “This is the most important project in all of Mexico right now.”

    Gutierrez has been traveling the world in recent months to promote the new highway, and the effort appears to be paying off. In November, Chinese firms signed deals on seven new investment projects in Durango totaling more than $220 million in mining, chemicals and auto-parts manufacturing.

    U.S. car-parts maker Delphi is adding 3,700 jobs in Durango this year, Gutierrez said, and a Chilean mining-and-forestry firm is pouring in $150 million in new investment. A Spanish company wants to build one of the world’s largest solar-energy farms in the state.

    Durango’s cost advantages appear to trump security concerns for many foreign investors. The average wage in the state is $13 a day, one of the lowest rates in Mexico, and when the superhighway is in place, the Pacific port at Mazatlán will be perfectly positioned for growing trade with Asia.

    Yet development experts say there is no definitive research proving that better infrastructure reduces crime.

    “All kinds of things travel on roads, both desirable and not so desirable,” Jordan Schwartz, the World Bank’s lead economist for Sustainable Development in Latin America and the Caribbean, said in an interview.

    “To suggest that better infrastructure leads directly to the rule of law would be naive,” he said. “On the other hand, it is easier to intimidate, co-opt or destabilize an isolated community than one that is employed and connected.”

    Others see a clear path to social progress with the new road.

    In Concordia, the county seat on the Sinaloa side of the bridge, teacher Beatriz Moran said she thought the new highway would help persuade young educators from urban areas to take jobs in rural mountain communities, knowing they wouldn’t be stuck there and could easily go home on weekends.

    “Right now, the kids in those towns only go to school through sixth grade because there aren’t enough teachers,” Moran said.

    Jose Eligio Medina, the county’s top official, dreams of adventure tourists and hikers exploring the mountains of Sinaloa, a place the U.S. government urges American travelers to avoid.

    “This road is going to change everything for us,” Medina said, already drawing up plans for a restaurant and overlook at the bridge.

    When the first surveyors and engineers reached the bridge site five years ago, it was a four-hour ride on horseback.

    “We stood at the edge of the canyon and looked across, and it didn’t seem possible,” said engineer Carlos Zamundio, inviting a reporter to walk the newly completed span and peer into the sucking abyss below. “It was like putting together a puzzle, one piece at a time.”

    Tradeco, the Mexican firm that built the bridge, had to put 15 miles of dirt roads into near-vertical canyons just to get equipment to the construction site, where 1,300 laborers were employed at the project’s peak.

    “We had to build an entire village down here,” said Salvador Sanchez, supervising engineer on the project, speaking in his office at the bottom of the gorge.

    Not a single worker died, he said.

    In contrast, during a reporter’s trip to the bridge site, there were two trucking accidents on the old highway, one fatal; and at several locations along the route, the large, lumbering vehicles had to stop completely at tight curves, backing up to allow other drivers to squeeze by.

    Sanchez said the new highway will go through — rather than over — the Devil’s Backbone, maintaining a consistent 5 percent grade, even on the Baluarte Bridge.

    Made of high-grade, prestressed concrete, the bridge’s four-lane roadway is held up by bundles of suspension-mounted steel cables. Each five-eighths-inch strand can support more than 80 tons, and when banded together in bundles of up to 46 cables, they can absorb huge earthquakes and massive loads, he said.

    “You could park heavy trucks on it from one end to another and nothing would happen,” Sanchez said. “It’s ready for anything.”

    Drenched in old-world charm

    Posted on 26th January 2012 in The monuments of world
    A

     

    The beach near Nam Hai Hotel in Hoi An

    The beach near Nam Hai Hotel in Hoi An

    The Goddess of Mercy looms large at Linh ung Pagoda complex

    The Goddess of Mercy looms large at Linh ung Pagoda complex

    A woman sells her tasty skewered meat in Hoi An

    A woman sells her tasty skewered meat in Hoi An

    A view of the Japanese Covered Bridge in Hoi An

    A view of the Japanese Covered Bridge in Hoi An

    A hawker in Danang

    A hawker in Danang

    A view from the Citadel

    A view from the Citadel

    THE waves are ominous but I am drawn to them. Danang’s China beach, which faces the angry South China Sea, is my idea of paradise on earth. The wind and the waves rant and roar, a magnificent audio backdrop to the pristine beach. There are zero tourists around and I am glad for that. With the wind in my face and the hypnotic sounds of the crashing waves, I could just stay there forever.

    Danang is the third largest city in Vietnam, home to almost a million people. Holidaymakers come mostly for the endless beach and the nearby Marble Mountains. Thankfully, it still remains relatively untouched by the crass commercialism that has afflicted Ho Chi Minh City.

    Flashback a couple of decades ago. I remember the tiny airport at Danang and the old plane I boarded from Ho Chi Minh City to wearily get there. Danang today boasts an international airport and AirAsia now flies there four times a week, so access is a breeze.

    The best time to visit Danang is from January to August as the rainy season starts thereafter, but there’s no stopping our media group from trekking through Danang, neighbouring Hoi An and Hue — in disposable raincoats, no less.
     
    More than just the beach

    The incessant rain makes sightseeing difficult. It’s Day 1 of the tour but our spirits are not dampened. Peering through the window as the bus lurches its way through the thoroughfares of the city and beyond, we try to take in whatever sights we could and take a shaky shot or two with our cameras.

    The Goddess of Mercy can be seen in the the distance, gradually looming above us as we make our way to the Linh ung Pagoda complex in Son Tra province. At over 600 metres above sea level, the complex offers great views of the city and the adjacent beach. The Goddess herself is 67 metres tall, a sight to behold. Inside her are apparently 17 stories and 21 Buddhas but we never got to go in.

    After playing tourists, we are soon herded back onto the bus for our next destination, Marble Mountain, but not before spotting a middle-aged female visitor doing the unthinkable in the distance — pulling down her pants in broad daylight and peeing in a drain. Wow, I thought such sightings are only possible in rural China!

    It is late afternoon when we reach Marble Mountain but the huge lift, specially constructed for the weary (read: lazy tourists) is closed so going up by foot is the only option. However, this too is ruled out, thanks in huge part to the downpour that continues unabated. We console ourselves with browsing at a couple of nearby shops selling pricey marble handicraft.

    A bit of history

    Danang was apparently first settled by the Indonesians. Initially a part of the Champa Kingdom that ruled much of southern Vietnam until the 15th century, Danang played an important part in Vietnamese history for many centuries.

    Colonised by the French in 1858 along with Hanoi, Saigon, Haiphong and Hue, it was considered one of Indochina’s five major cities.

    In more recent history, Danang is best known for its role in the Vietnam war. The air base there was a major American hub, used both by the Americans and the South Vietnamese army.

    Nearby China Beach, named after its beautiful china-white sand, was where wounded and weary American soldiers came to recuperate and recover.

    Onward we march

    I never knew the skies could contain so much water. It is still raining when Day 2 of my Danang adventure dawns. Our AirAsia organisers want it to be extra special, so our bus takes the Hai Van pass, a winding narrow road that snakes up a mountain, instead of comfortably zooming down a new highway, en route to our next destination, Hue.

    This Hai Van pass is a 5km mountain route which takes up 1,500km above sea level, a veritable challenge for drivers due to the twisting and arduous route. Being a left-hand-drive vehicle makes it extra daunting but I suppose the attraction of braving the route are the scenic views of the coastline at every other turn.

    We arrive in Hue after three long hours and guess what? It’s still raining! Do your worst, I mutter under my breath as I struggle with my raincoat, camera, bag and dignity. We all look like bloated whales in our colourful raincoats and I think we media folks — all 18 of us — make quite an impression descending on the Citadel.

    The imperial complex

    In Vietnam’s ancient history, Hue was once its capital, with the palace complex located on the north bank of the Perfume River. Commonly called the Citadel, the complex was built in 1804 and completed in 1833. It is huge — covering an area of 520 hectares — so it’s an intimidating prospect for travel journalists. We make do with visiting some old rooms and pretend to understand what the Vietnamese guide is mumbling in the rain.

    To cut a long story short, the Citadel contains feudal relics of immense architectural and cultural values, showcasing the traditional and classical side of Vietnam. Just so you know.

    Finally, the rain stops

    It’s Day 3 and our official duties (the itinerary proper) ends today. Our guide senses our exuberance as he lets us off in Hoi An, a village-cum-tourist area boasting Vietnamese, Chinese and Japanese-style old buildings. The sky is clear and it is a good day to, what else, shop! Like a bunch of excited students on their holiday break, we fan out looking for cheap souvenirs and hawker fare. It’s a good time to practise our haggling skills. With 100,000 Vietnamese dong the equivalent of RM15, calculating the price of anything can be mind-boggling. One guy goes in search of the loo and refuses to pay the 3,000 dong fee, until we point out that it’s only 30 sen-lah. Another female journalist posts on Facebook that she’s spending 83,000 on a item, eliciting numerous queries on whether it’s a branded bag! One thing’s for sure, it does feel good to be millionaires in Vietnam.

    Hard to say goodbye

    Vietnam has undergone much changes since it opened its doors to tourists 20 years. Then, I went through immigration under the watchful eyes of soldiers brandishing M16s. Today, officers in smart attire man counters and efficiently wave you through. While Ho Chi Minh City and Hanoi have, unfortunately, morphed into expensive touristy places, Danang still retains that old-world, simple charm that is quite irresistible.

    I will never forget the innocent smiles, the quizzical looks we encounter over language, and the simple folks we meet in Hoi An, Hue and elsewhere. Danang, for me, is on the verge of modernisation and yet not quite there. That is as good a reason for anyone to visit it now before the innocence is lost. As my plane takes off, I take a last longing look at Danang and tell myself that I will be back.

    Where to go

    Marble Mountains
    One of Vietnam’s most popular attractions, they consist of five marble and limestone hills (each named after one of the elements) not far from Danang. Climbing them is challenging but rewarding as there is a panoramic view of the beach and the surrounding countryside. The lazy ones can always opt to take the lift, a huge contraption that looks so oddly out of place with the natural surroundings.
    Several Buddhist sanctuaries can also be found within the mountain.
    The area is famous for its stone sculptures but rock extraction from the mountains has been banned, with materials now sourced from quarries elsewhere.
     
    Hue
    The imperial capital of the Nguyen Dynasty and was also the capital of Vietnam until the communist government made Hanoi as the capital city. Hue houses the Imperial Citadel and within it is the Forbidden City where emperors and concubines cavort. While the city stood majestically during the reign of the emperors, it also witnessed a massacre when it was controlled by the Viet Cong during the war. Hue also suffered damage when the Americans bombed the city in an effort to recapture the city.
    One of the main attractions of Hue is the Thien Mu Pagoda, which also serves as the symbol of the city. Other sites that should not be missed are the tombs of several emperors.

    My Son Sanctuary
    This is a Unesco World Heritage Site, and considered to be the Angkor of Vietnam. Located about 70km west of Danang, it was an imperial city of the Champa kingdom. Expect a large complex of ruined or abandoned Hindu monuments constructed between the 4th and 14th century.

    Hoi An
    Located near Danang, Hoi An oozes charm and history. This sleepy village is definitely a tourist spot these days, with souvenir shops, bars, and tailors every step of the way.

    The weather

    February to April
    Spring: cool and dry: Great time to stroll about

    May to July
    Summer: Warm and dry

    August to October
    Autumn: Cold and wet

    November to January
    Winter: Occasional thunderstorms and generally rainy

    Getting there

    The Danang International Airport is 2.5km southwest of the city centre. AirAsia flies to and from Danang every Monday, Wednesday, Friday and Sunday. Call 03-8660 4541 or 03-8660 4333 for more details.
     

    Clash of capitalist systems

    Posted on 23rd January 2012 in The monuments of world

    The Year of the Dragon may symbolise the struggle for prosperity for some, but others may use this year to challenge what they call state-capitalism being practised by developing countries, especially in Asia.

    IT’S the first day of the Year of the Dragon. Like others around the world, Malaysians hope it will be an auspicious year.

    Certainly it will be an interesting one. Perhaps that’s the only certainty about this coming year of uncertainty.

    The new Dragon Year will usher in even more intense debate about the role and the rise of China and of other “emerging economies”.

    As the Western countries face gloomy economic prospects, some of their political elite and intellectuals seem to be seized by fears that some developing countries, especially China, will be steaming ahead.

    Used to centuries of global economic dominance, these advanced countries are fearful that their leadership will be challenged and even overturned.

    This may be the reason for the obsession about China. These days, there are new books almost every month about the rise of China. Some deal with its high growth and prospects or with its complex political developments.

    Quite a number, like the book Death by China: Confronting the Dragon, are of the view that China is destroying not only the American economy but the whole world and its environment.

    But the fears go beyond China, and incorporate other emerging countries as well, as seen in the latest issue of The Economist, with its cover stories on “The rise of state capitalism: the emerging world’s new model.”

    The magazine describes the 88-storey Petronas Towers soaring above Kuala Lumpur, as well as the China Central TV building in Beijing and the VTB bank office in Moscow, as monuments to the new hybrid corporation – backed by the state but behaving like private-sector multinationals.

    The Economist’s editorial admits that for emerging countries wanting to make their mark on the world, state capitalism has an obvious appeal, giving them the clout that private-sector companies would take years to build.

    But its dangers outweigh its advantages, says the magazine. For their own sake and in the interests of world trade, the huge holdings should be unwound and handed over to private investors.

    The Economist however also admits that this hybrid form of “state-directed capitalism” company is not new, and cites the East India Company.

    This was the huge conglomeration that took over many Asian countries’ economies, while the English government made use of its gunboats and colonial rule to back up the EIC but other British companies.

    The magazine also cites the United States after its war of independence, Germany in the 1870s, and Japan and South Korea in the 1950s as examples of rising powers using the state to kick-start growth.

    There is thus recognition that the rise of today’s advanced countries was based on the state’s strong support in their companies’ emergence.

    These companies have dominated the global economy for decades and in some cases centuries, backed up not only by subsidies, cheap credit and other policy measures but also by their governments’ political and military force.

    In the past three decades, most developing countries have been told, through IMF-World Bank structural adjustment programmes, to give up the role of the state to direct their economies and instead rely entirely on the private sector.

    These policies did not succeed as the domestic private sector is weak or even non-existent in many countries. In poor countries, foreign companies were not interested in coming in except in the mining or plantation sectors.

    However, several other developing countries, mostly in Asia, took on a different model. Their governments believed in playing an important or even dominant role in the development process.

    At first these governments owned companies that they ran like government departments, and this was not efficient. This model was changed in some countries to one where the state can own or partly own companies that are then run on a commercial basis. The state can also assist private companies to grow.

    Government investment holding institutions like Khazanah and PNB in Malaysia or Temasek in Singapore have been set up as crucial components of this framework.

    The increasing criticism by Western intellectuals and politicians of “state capitalism” is not confined to academic observations.

    The US administration and Congress are contemplating legislation and action to place extra tariffs on Chinese products not only on anti-dumping grounds but also that they have been subsidised and that China is not a market economy.

    The Congress is also discussing whether to slap tariffs on Chinese products on the ground that China’s currency is manipulated and under-valued.

    While the focus now may be on China, other developing countries may be faced with the same actions based on the same reasoning, that these countries are unfairly helping their companies through policy measures that represent state-capitalism and industrial policy.

    Moreover, the US and Europe and now negotiating free trade agreements with developing countries that contain clauses or even chapters that seek to prohibit or restrict the practices of government-linked companies, or the provision of subsidies and preferences by government to local companies.

    Korean economist Ha Joon-chang wrote a famous book Kicking Away the Ladder to describe how developed countries made use of policies that made them rich, and now want to prevent developing countries from doing the same and thus are seeking to prohibit these same policies.

    The clash of capitalist systems and the clash between developed and developing countries over what policies are legitimate and which should be banned will intensify in this Year of the Dragon.

    Five People In-the-Know Offer Their Favorite Places To Visit

    Posted on 20th January 2012 in The monuments of world

    There are destinations to satisfy every appetite and curiosity. We asked five authorities in various fields about the best places to …

    … EAT

    I’ve eaten sushi around the world, and the best in Tokyo is at Sushi Sawada. In the kitchen, it’s just the chef, Koji Sawada, and his wife. And there’s nothing there except charcoal and a box of rice. As old-school as you can get. I found it to be a breath of fresh air.

    In Paris, Le Chateaubriand looks like a typical bistro, but you’re getting extraordinarily intelligent food. The chef is Inaki Aizpitarte — there’s nobody like him. He’s doing food in new ways, and in the sort of relaxed setting that you might find in the United States but is rare in Paris. Everyone who ever goes to Paris asks me if I can get them a reservation at Chateaubriand.

    Everyone goes to San Sebastian, in Spain, for food. But if you want to have the best seafood experience of your life, drive about 10 to 15 minutes outside the city to Elkano Restaurant. It may not look like it, but it’s got a state-of-the-art storage space for seafood; they get a shipment of sea water every week that they use to keep things fresh. And everything’s cooked over charcoal — it’s like Basque barbecue. A dish might consist of turbot, a local sherry, a few other ingredients. Very simple, but everything is delicious.

    Don’t worry if you can’t get a reservation at Noma, the acclaimed Copenhagen, Denmark, restaurant. Head to Restaurant Relae. Christian Puglisi, the chef, and his team are all Noma veterans, serving exquisite and light vegetable-centric food, and amazing bread. Christian is a great chef — he’s worked all over Europe. And he’s Italian, so there’s sometimes an Italian bent to his dishes. His food is simple, but not simple.

    In New York, you have to try Kajitsuin the East Village. I think, consistently, it might be the best restaurant in the city. And it’s totally a value; there’s an eight-course tasting menu for $70. The executive chef, Masato Nishihara, serves Shojin temple food, an ancient cuisine developed in Buddhist monasteries — sort of Japanese comfort food. It’s all vegetables, but you’re not going to miss the meat. And his pickles are so delicious. It’s a thought-provoking experience, but also incredibly fun and extremely tasty.

    — David Chang, chef and owner of Momofuku Restaurant Group

    … SEE ART

    I find that art is a great starting point for exploring the world. Of course, my own travel is often determined by art exhibitions and projects. I love Los Angeles, and I’ve been thrilled by the international attention to “Pacific Standard Time,” a huge, multi-institution exhibition showing art of California in the most inspiring and groundbreaking way. From the Los Angeles County Museum of Art to the Hammer Museum to the California African American Museum and many, many more, “Pacific Standard Time” is a whole new way to experience a vast range of significant art and artists and a great moment for the city.

    New York is always at the top of my list because at any given moment, this city is filled with exhibitions that allow people to be reacquainted with art and artists they love, and to discover new art — sometimes in the same institution. This year, there’s the Whitney Biennial 2012 and the New Museum Triennial: “The Ungovernables.” In June, the Studio Museum and our peer institutions El Museo del Barrioand the Queens Museum of Art will open the collaborative, multisite exhibition “Caribbean: Crossroads of the World,” surveying art from the Caribbean and offering new ideas about this amazing part of the world and its contributions to art and culture.

    One of the most inspiring places to see art is, for me, the Tate Modern in London. It’s among my favorite physical spaces, as the architecture really facilitates engaging with the work on view. I’m really looking forward to the Yayoi Kusama retrospective that opens in February.

    Placing museums and art at the center of any itinerary gives you a point of entry for so many wonderful places. I love Dakar, Senegal, and the biennial Dak’artis a reason to explore not just the city’s visual art, but also its music, performance, design and more; this year’s iteration opens in May. In fact, there are so many biennials and triennials, you could combine them for a fascinating itinerary. To start: Arts in Marrakesh Biennalein Morocco is Feb. 29 through June 3; the Paris Triennial is April 20 to Aug. 26; the seventh Berlin Biennial is April 28 through July 1; the 11th Havana Biennialis May 11 through June 11 in Cuba; Manifesta 9 in Belgium is June 2 through Sept. 30; Documenta in Kassel, Germany, is June 9 through Sept. 16 and the 30th; and Sao Paulo Biennialis Sept. 8 through Dec. 9.

    — Thelma Golden, director and chief curator of the Studio Museum in Harlem

    … UNDERSTAND THE WORLD

    If you want to understand the world, you need to understand Asia. That, in turn, means setting foot in China and India.

    Together, those two countries account for one-third of humanity and much of the world’s recent economic growth. They reflect two of our richest civilizations, two broad religious traditions and a vast share of the world’s artistic heritage — and its future.

    So fly to Beijing and Shanghai, Xian and Guangzhou. But don’t just visit the giant metropolises. Go also to the countryside that is China’s soul. Visit a town like Datong, west of Beijing, home to stunning carved Buddhas several stories high. They are 1,500 years old and one of the most amazing sights in China, yet few foreign tourists know of Datong.

    Not far away is the stunning Hanging Monastery, perched precariously on the side of a cliff. And Datong can be used as a base to see parts of the Great Wall that haven’t been restored. Nobody charges admission: They just sit there, waiting to be explored.

    Then visit India, and likewise go beyond Delhi and Mumbai, Kolkata and Bangalore. From Delhi, you can hire a car and visit the poor state of Rajasthan next door. Or explore the religious side of India, perhaps with a flight to Varanasi, on the holy Ganges River, where corpses are cremated on bonfires beside the waters. Or take a train to Amritsar and visit the Sikh Golden Temple.

    Wherever you go, try to interact not only with monuments but also with the people. My best experiences on the road have always been unscripted and spontaneous encounters with local people. Too often, tourists see Tiananmen Square and the Taj Mahal, but don’t make friends or ever step into a Chinese or Indian home. Asia is important above all for its people, so get to know them!

    — Nicholas D. Kristof, New York Times columnist

    … HEAR MUSIC

    I’ve traveled all over the world — Europe, Africa, South America, Asia — and music is everywhere. People are full of music in Cairo, and music is on every street corner and temple in India.

    In terms of where to hear cutting-edge popular music today, your first stop might be New York City, which, in my opinion, is definitely one of the hot spots right now. I’m from the U.K., and people there feel the same way, with groups like Vampire Weekend and MGMT putting it on the map and newcomers like Elle King making the scene now. The Music Hall of Williamsburg is probably the epicenter of the scene, along with Glasslands and the Knitting Factory. Bell House is worth a visit, too.

    I was in Paris a few weeks ago. As well as being historical and beautiful, is still one of the most vibrant, cutting-edge cities and has some of the best music. The hot club right now is the Social Club. You can hear a sound there — kind of an amalgam of funk and disco, though not specifically retro — that’s purely a creation of Paris. It’s electronic and based around that ’70s and ’80s funk. Hip-hop is also really big there. Kanye and Jay-Z have a song that references Paris right now. Another club worth noting is Silencio, designed in part by David Lynch. It’s more of a social club and a dance club — another place to hear the newest Paris sound.

    In London, the dance party everybody is talking about is Horse Meat Disco at Eagle London in Vauxhall on Sunday nights. It’s DJ’d disco music that is a late night thing. I would also recommend XOYO in Shoreditch. Azealia Banks, a Harlem rapper, just performed there, and it’s becoming one of the hippest, in-the-know clubs in the city. Londoners are very open to new music, so a lot of Americans get their start there.

    Most recently, I’ve been in Jamaica, staying at Geejam, a resort in Port Antonio owned by Jon Baker, a music producer. This place has music happening at all times, as local sound systems boost reggae. The hotel also has a studio where the Gorillaz and Drake record.

    — Peter Edge, chief executive of RCA Records

    Obama Takes Actions to Increase Travel and Tourism in the United States

    Posted on 19th January 2012 in The monuments of world

    19 January 2012 White House Media Release

    This morning, President Obama will sign an Executive Order and announce new initiatives to significantly increase travel and tourism in the United States. The U.S. tourism and travel industry is a substantial component of U.S. GDP and employment, representing 2.7% of GDP and 7.5 million jobs in 2010 – with international travel to the United States supporting 1.2 million jobs alone. The travel and tourism industry projects that more than 1 million American jobs could be created over the next decade if the U.S. increased its share of the international travel market. Today’s announcement offers important steps to bolster job creation through a range of steps to better promote the United States as a tourism destination and improve secure visa processing. This is the most recent of a series of executive actions the President has announced to put Americans back to work and strengthen the U.S. economy.

    “Every year, tens of millions of tourists from all over the world come and visit America. And the more folks who visit America, the more Americans we get back to work. We need to help businesses all across the country grow and create jobs; compete and win. That’s how we’re going to rebuild an economy where hard work pays off, where responsibility is rewarded, and where anyone can make it if they try,” said President Obama.

    According to the U.S. Department of Commerce, international travel resulted in $134 billion in U.S. exports in 2010 and is the nation’s largest service export industry, with 7% of total exports and 24% of service exports. The Bureau of Economic Analysis estimates that every additional 65 international visitors to the United States can generate enough exports to support an additional travel and tourism-related job. According to the travel industry and Bureau of Economic Analysis, international travel is particularly important as overseas or “long-haul” travelers spend on average $4,000 on each visit.

    Today’s announcement calls for a national strategy to make the United States the world’s top travel and tourism destination, as part of a comprehensive effort to spur job creation. The number of travelers from emerging economies with growing middle classes – such as China, Brazil, and India – is projected to grow by 135%, 274%, and 50% respectively by 2016 when compared to 2010.  Nationals from these three countries contributed approximately $15 billion dollars and thousands of jobs to the U.S. economy in 2010.  In addition, Chinese and Brazilian tourists currently spend more than $6,000 and $5,000 respectively each, per trip, according to the Department of Commerce. The Department of State has made tremendous progress in processing non-immigrant visas from these key markets, allowing them to issue more than 7.5 million visas in the last fiscal year, a 17% increase from the previous fiscal year. In the 2011 fiscal year, consular officers adjudicated more than a million visa applications in China and more than 800,000 in Brazil, representing 34 % growth in China and 42% growth in Brazil. Improving visa processing capacity for China and Brazil is particularly important because of this growth.

    KEY HIGHLIGHTS:

    Today’s Executive Order charges several agencies to take part in efforts to increase travel and tourism in the United States:

    ·         The Secretaries of Commerce and the Interior will be charged with:

    o   Co-leading an interagency task force to develop recommendations for a National Travel & Tourism Strategy to promote domestic and international travel opportunities throughout the United States, thereby expanding job creation. This Task Force will coordinate with the Corporation for Travel Promotion (currently doing business as BrandUSA), a non-profit corporation established by Congress through the Travel Promotion Act of 2009 to promote travel to the United States, and the Tourism Policy Council to ensure private sector participation and cross-agency coordination.

    o   A particular focus of the Task Force will be on strategies for increasing tourism and recreation jobs by promoting visits to our national treasures. The Department of the Interior manages iconic destinations in our national parks, wildlife refuges, cultural and historic sites, monuments and other public lands that attract travelers from around the country and the globe. In 2010, more than 400 million visits were made by American and international travelers to these lands, contributing nearly $50 billion in economic activity and 400,000 jobs. Eco-tourism and outdoor recreation also have an outsize impact on rural economies, particularly in Arizona, California, Colorado, Florida, Nevada, North Carolina, Oregon, Utah and Wyoming. 

    ·         The Department of State and the Department of Homeland Security will be charged with:

    o   Increasing non-immigrant visa processing capacity in China and Brazil by 40% in 2012.

    o   Ensuring that 80% of non-immigrant visa applicants are interviewed within three weeks of receipt of application.

    o   Increasing efforts to expand the Visa Waiver Program and travel by nationals eligible to participate in the Visa Waiver Program, and expanding reciprocal trusted travel programs for expedited travel (such as the Global Entry program).

    ·         The Department of Commerce will be charged with:

    o   Establishing and maintaining a publicly available website with key information and statistics from across the Federal Government to assist industry and travelers in understanding visa processes in key travel and tourism markets, and entry times into the United States.

    Additional initiatives announced today include:

    ·         New Pilot Program and Rule Change for Visa Processing in China and Brazil:

    o   Today, the Departments of State and Homeland Security announced a pilot program to simplify and speed up the non-immigrant visa process for certain applicants, including the ability to waive interviews for some very low-risk applicants, such as individuals from any country renewing non-immigrant visas, or, in Brazil, younger or older first-time applicants. Link to fact sheet HERE for more information.

    ·         Final Rule to Expand and Make the Global Entry Program Permanent:

    o   Global Entry is a program within the Department of Homeland Security, U.S. Customs and Border Protection that was created as a pilot in 2008 to facilitate expedited clearance for pre-approved, low-risk travelers upon arrival in the United States. Through a final rule, the Administration will expand and make the Global Entry program permanent. Due in part to innovative public-private partnerships, the Global Entry program now has more than 246,000 members, more than one million trusted travelers have Global Entry benefits, and efforts are underway to expand enrollment even further. There are currently 131 Global Entry kiosks at 20 airports and since launching, members have used Global Entry kiosks over 1.7 million times, saving CBP officers over 36,450 inspection hours—staff hours that CBP has then re-allocated to expedite regular passenger queues. This final rule will allow the program to be expanded to an additional 4 airports in Minneapolis, Charlotte, Denver and Phoenix, making the Global Entry program and expedited clearance available in airports that service approximately 97% of international travelers.

    ·         Appoint new members to the U.S. Travel and Tourism Advisory Board:

    o   A new membership of 32 private sector CEOs have been appointed by Commerce Secretary Bryson to serve on the U.S. Travel and Tourism Advisory Board. The Advisory Board will build upon the work undertaken by the past Board addressing travel facilitation, visa policy, improving the international travel entry experience, aviation security, energy security, crisis communications and research and data, among other issues. This Board consists of corporate executives across the nation, representing all aspects of the travel and tourism industry, who are appointed to a two-year term to advise the Secretary of Commerce on policies affecting the travel and tourism industry. See the full list of new members HERE.

    ·         Nomination of Taiwan to Visa Waiver Program:

    o   Currently, more than 60% of international tourists do not require a U.S. visa, in most cases because they travel under the Visa Waiver Program.  The Secretary of State has formally requested that the Secretary of Homeland Security consider Taiwan for the Visa Waiver Program. Over the past year, Taiwan has undertaken significant efforts to improve its law enforcement and document security standards to meet the strict requirements for Visa Waiver Program eligibility. Under the Visa Waiver Program, participating nationals can travel to the United States for tourism or business for stays of 90 days or less without obtaining a visa. The program was established to promote travel and tourism with our foreign partners, stimulate the tourism industry, and permit the Department of State to focus consular resources in other areas. Since November 2008, the Department of Homeland Security has added nine countries to the Visa Waiver Program, bringing the program total to 36 countries.