Monument in Palisades Park, N.J., Irritates Japanese Officials

Posted on 18th May 2012 in The monuments of world
By KIRK SEMPLE
Published: May 18, 2012

Two delegations of Japanese officials visited Palisades Park, N.J., this month with a request that took local administrators by surprise: the Japanese wanted a small monument removed from a public park.

The monument, a brass plaque on a block of stone, was dedicated in 2010 to the memory of so-called comfort women, tens of thousands of women and girls, many Korean, who were forced into sexual slavery by Japanese soldiers during World War II.

But the Japanese lobbying to remove the monument seems to have backfired — and deepened animosity between Japan and South Korea over the issue of comfort women, a longstanding irritant in their relations.

Authorities in Palisades Park, a borough across the Hudson River from Manhattan, rejected the demand, and now the Japanese effort is spurring Korean groups in the New York region and across the country to plan more such monuments.

“They’re helping us, actually,” said Chejin Park, staff lawyer at the Korean American Voters’ Council, a civic group that championed the memorial in Palisades Park, where more than half of the population of about 20,000 is of Korean descent, according to the Census Bureau. “We can increase the awareness of this issue.”

Korean groups have been further motivated by a letter-writing campaign in Japan in opposition to a proposal by Peter Koo, a New York city councilman and Chinese immigrant, to rename a street in Flushing, Queens, in honor of comfort women.

Mr. Park said that in the past week or so, his organization had received calls from at least five Korean community organizers around the country — in Michigan, Georgia, Texas and New Jersey — expressing interest in building their own memorials. These would be in addition to at least four memorials in the works in California and Georgia, he added.

“Starting from Flushing, N.Y., we will continue the construction in the areas of major Korean-American communities,” vowed Paul Park, executive director of the Korean-American Association of Greater New York, one of the oldest Korean community organizations in the region. “We Korean-Americans observe the issue on the level of a global violation of human rights.”

Tensions between Japan and South Korea over the legacy of comfort women were reignited in December when a bronze statue in honor of victims was installed across the street from the Japanese Embassy in Seoul, the South Korean capital. Japanese officials have asked the Korean authorities to remove that statue.

Japanese leaders have said that their formal apologies, expressions of remorse and admissions of responsibility regarding the treatment of comfort women are sufficient, including an offer to set up a $1 billion fund for victims. But many Koreans contend that those actions are inadequate. Surviving victims have rejected the fund because it would be financed by private money. The victims are seeking government reparations.

James Rotundo, mayor of Palisades Park, said the lobbying began obliquely late last month. Officials at the Japanese consulate in New York sent e-mails requesting a meeting with borough administrators. “I called the secretary and said, ‘What is this about?’ ” the mayor recalled in an interview, “and she said, ‘It’s about Japanese-U.S. relations,’ and I said, ‘Oh. Well, O.K.’ ”

The first meeting, on May 1, began pleasantly enough, he said. The delegation was led by the consul general, Shigeyuki Hiroki, who talked about his career, including his work in Afghanistan — “niceties,” Mr. Rotundo said.

Then the conversation took a sudden turn, Mr. Rotundo said. The consul general pulled out two documents and read them aloud.

One was a copy of a 1993 statement from Yohei Kono, then the chief cabinet secretary, in which the Japanese government acknowledged the involvement of military authorities in the coercion and suffering of comfort women.

The other was a 2001 letter to surviving comfort women from Junichiro Koizumi, then the prime minister, apologizing for their treatment.

Mr. Hiroki then said the Japanese authorities “wanted our memorial removed,” Mr. Rotundo recalled.

The consul general also said the Japanese government was willing to plant cherry trees in the borough, donate books to the public library “and do some things to show that we’re united in this world and not divided,” Mr. Rotundo said. But the offer was contingent on the memorial’s removal.

“I couldn’t believe my ears,” said Jason Kim, deputy mayor of Palisades Park and a Korean-American, who attended the meeting. “My blood shot up like crazy.”

Borough officials rejected the request, and the delegation left.

The second delegation arrived May 6 and was led by four members of the Japanese Parliament. Their approach was less diplomatic, Mr. Rotundo said. The visiting politicians, members of the opposition Liberal Democratic Party, not only asked that the monument be removed but also sought to convince the Palisades Park authorities that comfort women had never been forcibly conscripted as sex slaves.

“They said the comfort women were a lie, that they were set up by an outside agency, that they were women who were paid to come and take care of the troops,” the mayor related. “I said, ‘We’re not going to take it down, but thanks for coming.’ ”

The Japanese consulate in New York has been reluctant to discuss its lobbying.

In interviews this week, Fumio Iwai, the deputy consul general, would not say whether the consul general had requested that the monument be removed.

But he denied that the consul general had offered to help the borough in return for the monument’s removal. “Ambassador Hiroki did not offer any such condition,” he said.

Mr. Iwai said the issue of comfort women, if not Palisades Park specifically, was the subject of continuing discussions “at a very high level” between the governments of South Korea and Japan.

“So,” he said, pausing as if to choose his words carefully, “things are quite complicated.”

Review: Paolo Bacigalupi returns with another dark vision in 'The Drowned Cities'

Posted on 14th May 2012 in The monuments of world

“The Drowned Cities,” (Little, Brown Books for Young Readers), by Paolo Bacigalupi: A new Paolo Bacigalupi novel is reason to celebrate — no matter how old you are.

Bacigalupi’s latest, “The Drowned Cities,” is his second straight young adult release, but that shouldn’t deter the writer’s older fans from picking up the book (even if you have to do it on the sly).

It’s packed with the same kind of entrancing insight that made Bacigalupi‘s previous work — “Ship Breaker” for young readers and the novel “The Windup Girl” and the short story collection “Pump Six and Other Stories” for adults — so unforgettable.

His characters and plots play out a few centuries in the future, but they’re so grounded in the now, they often make the reader stop and ponder the intricate game of connect the dots he plays to render such a convincing — if gloomy — outcome for humanity, and especially its children.

There are few adults in “The Drowned Cities,” the result of years of fractious infighting in a lawless section of the eastern U.S. around Washington, D.C. A multisided civil war waged by child soldiers has raged since the oceans rose, flooding some of the country’s most populous areas, and the world returned to The Dark Ages after the failure of our Accelerated Age.

At one time there were Chinese peacekeepers to help restore order, but they sailed away on their clipper ships, leaving the country to fall into chaos and young Mahlia to fend for herself. A “castoff,” she was left behind by her father and loses her mother to one of the many factions vying for control. The colour of her skin and cast of her eyes mark her as a pariah in a vengeful society.

Mahlia is saved by a young boy named Mouse after her right arm is chopped off by a child soldier who intends to leave her limbless, and they eventually find a home with kindly Dr. Mahfouz in a relatively safe region. She learns to aid the doctor and is carving out a future in a time when life expectancy barely creeps into the double-digits.

Everything changes with the appearance of genetic experiment Tool, the part-man, part-dog, part-tiger, part-hyena supersoldier who appeared in “Ship Breaker.” He’s on the run from faction leader Col. Glenn Stern’s United Patriot Front, and Mahlia’s decision to help him — despite the clear danger he presents to everyone — drives the rest of the novel.

The plot’s pretty simple, set on overdrive and laid out for easy conversion to screenplay. But we’re not here for the plot, are we? It’s Bacigalupi’s ripped-from-the-real characters and his cleareyed visions of the future that draw the mind.

Bacigalupi uses powerful images and symbols in “The Drowned Cities.” Life still goes on in the never-ending, kudzu-covered cityscape that hangs on above the second-story waterline and in the streets turned canals. Boy soldiers from the UPF with their hashtag facial brands, Army of God, Freedom Militia and the countless factions terrorize everyone.

Slaves move barges and power salvage operations by overseas corporations that fund the constant violence. The Capitol Dome is pounded into oblivion under heavy artillery in yet another pointless battle. Old American flags, statuary raided from monuments and other pieces of precious U.S. history are sold as “antiques” to blood buyers who move them to the new power centre in Asia where they are treasured relics.

Sounds outlandish? Not in Bacigalupi’s hands.

“The Drowned Cities hadn’t always been broken,” Bacigalupi writes. “People broke it. First they called people traitors and said they didn’t belong. Said these people were good and those people were evil, and kept it going, because people always responded, and pretty soon the place was a roaring hell because no one took responsibility for what they did, and how it would drive others to respond.”

Sure, it’s a made-up story for kids. But the powerful thing about Bacigalupi’s work — for them or anyone else willing to spend the time — is it feels so real.

___

Follow Entertainment Writer Chris Talbott at www.twitter.com/Chris_Talbott.

Review: Bacigalupi back with another dark vision

Posted on 11th May 2012 in The monuments of world

“The Drowned Cities,” (Little, Brown Books for Young Readers), by Paolo Bacigalupi: A new Paolo Bacigalupi novel is reason to celebrate — no matter how old you are.

Bacigalupi’s latest, “The Drowned Cities,” is his second straight young adult release, but that shouldn’t deter the writer’s older fans from picking up the book (even if you have to do it on the sly).

It’s packed with the same kind of entrancing insight that made Bacigalupi‘s previous work — “Ship Breaker” for young readers and the novel “The Windup Girl” and the short story collection “Pump Six and Other Stories” for adults — so unforgettable.

His characters and plots play out a few centuries in the future, but they’re so grounded in the now, they often make the reader stop and ponder the intricate game of connect the dots he plays to render such a convincing — if gloomy — outcome for humanity, and especially its children.

There are few adults in “The Drowned Cities,” the result of years of fractious infighting in a lawless section of the eastern U.S. around Washington, D.C. A multisided civil war waged by child soldiers has raged since the oceans rose, flooding some of the country’s most populous areas, and the world returned to The Dark Ages after the failure of our Accelerated Age.

At one time there were Chinese peacekeepers to help restore order, but they sailed away on their clipper ships, leaving the country to fall into chaos and young Mahlia to fend for herself. A “castoff,” she was left behind by her father and loses her mother to one of the many factions vying for control. The color of her skin and cast of her eyes mark her as a pariah in a vengeful society.

Mahlia is saved by a young boy named Mouse after her right arm is chopped off by a child soldier who intends to leave her limbless, and they eventually find a home with kindly Dr. Mahfouz in a relatively safe region. She learns to aid the doctor despite her handicap and is carving out a future in a time when life expectancy barely creeps into the double-digits.

Everything changes with the appearance of genetic experiment Tool, the part-man, part-dog, part-tiger, part-hyena supersoldier who appeared in “Ship Breaker.” He’s on the run from faction leader Col. Glenn Stern’s United Patriot Front, and Mahlia’s decision to help him — despite the clear danger he presents to everyone — drives the rest of the novel.

The plot’s pretty simple, set on overdrive and laid out for easy conversion to screenplay. But we’re not here for the plot, are we? It’s Bacigalupi’s ripped-from-the-real characters and his cleareyed visions of the future that draw the mind.

Bacigalupi uses powerful images and symbols in “The Drowned Cities.” Life still goes on in the never-ending, kudzu-covered cityscape that hangs on above the second-story waterline and in the streets turned canals. Boy soldiers from the UPF with their hashtag facial brands, Army of God, Freedom Militia and the countless factions terrorize everyone.

Slaves move barges and power salvage operations by overseas corporations that fund the constant violence. The Capitol Dome is pounded into oblivion under heavy artillery in yet another pointless battle. Old American flags, statuary raided from monuments and other pieces of precious U.S. history are sold as “antiques” to blood buyers who move them to the new power center in Asia where they are treasured relics.

Sounds outlandish? Not in Bacigalupi’s hands.

“The Drowned Cities hadn’t always been broken,” Bacigalupi writes. “People broke it. First they called people traitors and said they didn’t belong. Said these people were good and those people were evil, and kept it going, because people always responded, and pretty soon the place was a roaring hell because no one took responsibility for what they did, and how it would drive others to respond.”

Sure, it’s a made-up story for kids. But the powerful thing about Bacigalupi’s work — for them or anyone else willing to spend the time — is it feels so real.

___

Follow Entertainment Writer Chris Talbott at www.twitter.com/Chris_Talbott.

True story behind Huangyan Island dispute in South China Sea

Posted on 10th May 2012 in The monuments of world

The controversy over a tiny island in the South China Sea has intensified, making it the most serious standoff between China and the Philippines in the sea in recent years.

In early April, the Philippines sent a warship to harass 12 Chinese fishing vessels which sailed into the waters of Huangyan Island to shelter from bad weather.

According to media reports, the Philippines has also notified China on its readiness to raise the issue of the sovereignty of Huangyan Island to international arbitration. In addition, it tried to rename the island and remove the signs and monuments related to China.

WHO IS THE TROUBLEMAKER

Huangyan Island, a group of reefs and islets about 550 sea miles away from the Hainan Island in south China, has long provided a perfect shelter for fishing ships from nearby islands and the mainland of China.

“For many generations we have fished in this water,” said Ke Weixiu, a fisherman and native from the port of Tanmen in Hainan.

However, since the 1990s, Chinese fishermen have repeatedly been harassed by Philippine warships.

According to the fishery department under the Ministry of Agriculture, four Chinese fishing boats were intercepted by the Philippine navy in the waters around the island from January to March in 1998 and 51 fishermen on board were detained for about six months.

In May 1999, a Chinese fishing boat was rammed by a Philippine warship and sunk, according to the ministry.

From 2000 to 2011, at least 32 fishing ships, with 439 fishermen on board, were chased, robbed or detained by the Philippine navy.

The latest event occurred in April. Xu Detan, captain of one of the 12 fishing ships harassed, has not recovered from the shocking encounter with the Philippine navy even three weeks after returning home.

“A Philippine warship blocked our entry to the lagoon where we docked our ships,” Xu recalled. “We had no choice but to wait inside as they were armed.”

On April 10, nine Philippine soldiers, on a inflatable, boarded Xu’s ship with seven of them carrying rifles.

“They turned off the radio and satellite positioning system on my ship, searched the whole ship and took pictures while the 16 members of the crew, including me, were standing on the deck under the hot sun for four hours.”

Two Chinese Marine Surveillance ships conducting routine patrols in the area later came to the fishermen’s rescue and helped Xu and his colleagues return home safely.

“Usually a fishing trip will take 50 days but this time we were forced to cut it short to 25 days,” he said.

PHILIPPINES’ TERRITORIAL CLAIM IS UNTENABLE

Until 1997, the Philippines never disputed China’s jurisdiction and development of the island. But recently the Philippines has played tricks and triggered disturbances, as well as claiming the island as theirs.

The Philippines says it is the nearest country to Huangyan Island, so it claims the island belongs to it on this premise.

“This theory based on geographic distance for territorial sovereignty has absolutely no basis in international law and judicial practice,” according to Zhang Haiwen, deputy director of China Institute for Marine Affairs under State Oceanic Administration.

“There is no such principle in international law that determines territorial ownership by geographic distance,” Zhang said, noting that many countries around the world have territories which are far away from their mainland and much closer to other countries.

“For example, the British Channel Islands are less than 12 nautical miles off the French coastline at their closest proximity. Some French territorial islands stretch across the Atlantic, lie close to the Canadian coastline in north America and even in the Pacific. But none of these islands have territorial disputes due to geographic distance,” said Zhang.

“The world map would be totally redrawn if the Philippines’ theory was upheld,” Zhang said.

The Philippines claims that Huangyan Island is in the country’s 200-nautical miles-wide Exclusive Economic Zone (EEZ) and says its claim is in line with the United Nations Convention on the Law Of the Sea (UNCLOS).

Liu Feng, a researcher with National Institute for South China Sea Studies, said that the UNCLOS has neither the articles to change a country’s land territory, nor does it have the authority to allow a country to take another country’s territory by the right of the EEZ and the continental shelf.

The Philippines claims that the United States controlled Huangyan Island, thus it has inherited the island’s sovereignty and jurisdiction from the U.S. military.

“U.S. forces in the Philippines used Huangyan Island as a shooting range, but the U.S. has never claimed sovereignty over the island. How could the Philippines inherit it? It’s ridiculous,” said Zhang Haiwen.

“All the Philippine rhetoric is untenable in terms of international law,” said Liu Feng. “So the Philippines wants to take the initiative to stir things up by sending warships to harass Chinese fishermen in Huangyan Island waters and escalate tensions.”

The Nuances of Hanoi

Posted on 2nd May 2012 in The monuments of world

WOULD Hanoi have you at hello? Perhaps. If you’re a war history buff, the city dedicates itself to memorials and monuments of the most infamous war of the 20th century.

When food is your preference, Hanoi is fast becoming one of the culinary hot spots in the world. If art appeals to you, the city nurtures an exciting contemporary market. And when shopping’s your thing, the haggling scene is most vibrant in the Vietnamese capital.

Hanoi, on my mind, is mostly about Jane Fonda as Hanoi Jane, or Catherine Deneuve in Indochine, the 1992 Oscar Best Foreign Language Film where she earned her only Oscar nomination to date. I have caught snippets of Francis Ford Coppola’s Apocalypse Now, Oliver Stone’s Platoon and Born on the Fourth of July. The last three Vietnam War films were partly shot here.

Such are the striking similarities between the two countries that the Philippines can credibly stand in for Vietnam. The affinity goes further, of course, via Miss Saigon, the musical that catapulted Lea Salonga and Monique Wilson as world-class thespians portraying a lovestruck Vietnamese girl, and has since cast Filipino artists in the major roles in current productions around the globe.

Hie off to Hanoi

Fortunately for the wanderlust, as well as a blessing to the budget traveler, Cebu Pacific Air (CEB) has resumed its direct flights to Hanoi. Now anyone can experience first-hand every facet of the city’s religious, historical, artistic, gustatory and commercial character.

“The addition of Hanoi to our international network means that we will now be able to cater to the air-travel needs of a broader Filipino and Vietnamese market. Cebu Pacific becomes the only Philippine carrier to serve both the northern and southern areas of Vietnam, providing more access for Vietnamese residents to enjoy the shopping, eco-adventure and entertainment attractions the Philippines has to offer. This will also open more avenues for business collaboration as well as trade and investment opportunities,” Lance Gokongwei, CEB president and CEO, said in the press conference held at the Hanoi Opera House that was also attended by Philippine Ambassador Jerril Santos, Intramuros Administrator Jose Capistrano and Vietnam Ministry of Culture, Sports and Tourism Director Dr. Nguyen Van Tinh.

Marking the resumed flights to Hanoi, Gokongwei led a contingent that included media, tourism officials, CEB personnel, the Vietnamese Ambassador to the Philippines Nguyen Vu Tu, and President Aquino’s sisters. The CEB Manila-to-Hanoi flights are on Tuesdays and Saturdays, while the Hanoi-to-Manila flights are on Wednesdays and Sundays. The lowest possible year-round Go Lite fare is P2,499. Manila is an hour behind Hanoi, and P1 equals VND 487.26; $1 equals P20,822.74.

“The return to Hanoi is significant because it’s a manifestation of the friendship between the Philippines and Vietnam. It can spur exchanges in culture and tourism, among other things, because people can now directly fly to the two cities,” Ambassador Santos said.

The OFW profile in Vietnam is very good, Santos added with pride. There are more than 5,000 professionals, such as engineers, hotel and restaurant managers and English teachers, who mostly work in Ho Chi Minh, the country’s biggest city. Jollibee has several branches in Vietnam. Fifty-plus Filipino companies are investing there like San Miguel, Universal Robina Corp. and United Pharma.  “Vietnam is probably the most attractive country in the Asean, investment-wise. We have bigger malls, but have you seen any beggars on the streets? It’s hard to measure Vietnam’s progress compared to the Philippines. They are getting their act together. We are slower. Our democratic system is open to debate. In their socialist system, once they decide [on something], it’s there. For them, their socialist system works.

“For us, we’re not ready to give up our individual liberties. Their system is entrenched. It’s basically stable, with no threats to it even if all government officials are abroad,” Santos explained. “It’s a nice, beautiful country. They can learn a thing or two from us, and us from them. It’s mutual.”

Legends, literature, lakes

Hanoi has survived several wars against the Mongols, French and Americans. But the city has steadfastly held on to its heritage structures.

Hanoi’s name literally means the “city inside the river.” Hoan Kiem Lake is its “Central Park,” where the Thap Rua (Tortoise) Tower is the centerpiece. It sits on a small island in the middle of the lake and has become as symbolic as the Eiffel Tower, the Rizal Monument and the Statue of Liberty. Turtles as old as 50 can be seen biding their time at the temple’s base.

According to the legend, Emperor Lê Lôi handed a magic sword called Heaven’s Will, which helped him win his revolt against the Chinese Ming Dynasty, back to the Golden Turtle God (Kim Qui) in the lake. Thus, the lake got its present name, which means “Lake of the Returned Sword,” replacing its former name of Luc Thuy, or “Green Water.”

The Ngoc Son (or “Jade Mountain”) Temple is on an island at the northern end of the lake. The 14th-century temple is dedicated to the hero Tran Hung Dao, who defeated an army of 300,000 sent to invade Vietnam by the Mongol Emperor Kublai Khan. Linking the island is a red wooden bridge called The Huc, meaning “Flood of Morning Sunlight,” which is best marvelled at during a night crawl through the French-influenced boulevards surrounding “the lungs of the city.”

A tour of Hanoi wouldn’t be complete without paying respects to the country’s liberator, Ho Chi Minh. The founding father lies embalmed and clad in his favorite khaki suit inside a severe, gray and granite edifice akin to Lenin’s tomb. However, the mausoleum is open only in the mornings. Long lines should be expected, too.

Behind the mausoleum is the One-Pillar Pagoda, the iconic Buddhist pillar in the middle of a lotus pond built by Emperor Lý Thái Tông, who ruled from 1028 to 1054. He was childless and dreamt that he met the Bodhisattva Avalokiteshvara, who handed him a baby son while seated on a lotus flower. He then married a peasant girl, who bore him a son. The emperor constructed the temple in gratitude for this blessing in 1049.

Confucius was also influential in Vietnam’s early years. This is evident in the reverential tribute to the Chinese philosopher, The Temple of Literature, of which there are two structures: Van Mieu, built in 1070 to worship Confucius; and Quoc Tu Giam, or the “Temple of the King Who Distinguished Literature,” built in 1076 to teach the doctrines of Confucius and his disciples. Stone diplomas carried on the backs of turtles can be found at the temple, bearing the names and birthplaces of more than a thousand doctor laureates who remarkably survived the elite institution.

Pho and coffee

WE never ate the way the Vietnamese do—on stools in sidewalks unmindful of traffic. Come to think of it, I never saw any obese or overweight Vietnamese. Is it because of their national dish called pho, or rice noodles in flavorful broth mixed with meat and herbs?

How can they not gain weight after eating Hanoi spring rolls, Ngu Xa noodle rolled with beef and salad, sticky rice with grilled squid pie, banana flower salad with chicken, stewed pork with cinnamon sticks, or Old Hanoi-style steamed rice pancake with pork and shiitake? Then finish off the meal with the fabled Vietnamese coffee?

Maybe the Vietnamese are just naturally lean. Maybe that’s why their buildings and houses are built like tubes, the better to fit their slender frames.

Limited Facebook, unlimited traffic

I wondered aloud at one point during the trip why I couldn’t log in to Facebook in most areas in Hanoi. But I did grasp a wayward Wi-Fi connection at the Hanoi Opera House before the Philippines-Vietnam Friendship Concert, which featured pianist Raul Sunico, theatrical singer Joanna Ampil, soprano Rachelle Gerodias, violinist Bui Cong Duy and Vietnamese pop idol Duc Tuan.

The Philippine contingent was dressed in the finest Filipiniana. Then I saw a Vietnamese girl clad, quite disrespectfully, in shorts and sneakers. I wished right then and there that the Vietcong of old would magically appear and whisk this girl off to the Hanoi Hilton for some jail time for crimes against proper attire.

Just like Ho Chi Minh, Hanoi has its fair share of mad, suicidal motorcyclists. Traffic aides or traffic lights are practically ignored or otherwise non-existent. Crossing the street is like playing a deadly game of patintero with the scooters.

The quaint Old Quarter

WE almost didn’t get to stroll down the side streets and back alleys of the Old Quarter, which brings the city its charm and character. Good thing we still had free time to navigate its labyrinthine rows of stalls, shops and restaurants.

Each street in the Old Quarter is said to be named after a type of artisan, like a shoemaker, clothesmaker, silk trader, jewelry maker or blacksmith.

To this day, the tourist-bait area has retained most of the original clusters. Knockoffs of Kipling luggage, Samsonite messenger bags and NorthFace backpacks are in abundance here.

Asean invasion

“HAVING the most flights within the Philippines and from the Philippines to the Asean has allowed us to witness an exciting development. Cebu Pacific’s trademark lowest fares grow the market, stimulate the demand for travel and increase tourism and trade,” the modern-day Marco Polo, Lance Gokongwei, declared. “We look forward to doing the same with our new Manila-Hanoi service through our affordable fares and unparalleled Asean to North Asian network. The Philippines is truly more accessible now to more foreign travelers because of the extensive network that only Cebu Pacific offers.”


In Photo: The Temple of Literature and Iconic Hanoi: Hoan Kiem Lake, mad motorcyclists and the Tortoise Temple.


State museums are so antiquated | Orhan Pamuk

Posted on 22nd April 2012 in The monuments of world
  • Orhan Pamuk

  • Orhan Pamuk in the Museum of Innocence
    ‘I love museums’ … Orhan Pamuk in the Museum of Innocence. Photograph: Refik Anadol

    I love museums and I am not alone in finding that they make me happier with each passing day. I take museums very seriously, and that sometimes leads me to angry, forceful thoughts. But I do not have it in me to speak about museums with anger.

    In my childhood, there were very few museums in Istanbul. Most of them were simply preserved historical monuments or – quite rare outside the western world – they were places with an air of the government office about them.

    Later, the small museums in the back streets of European cities led me to realise that museums – just like novels – can also speak for individuals.

    That is not to understate the importance of the Louvre, Metropolitan Museum, Topkapı Palace, British Museum, Prado, and Pinacoteca – all of which are veritable treasures of humankind. But I am against these precious monumental institutions being used as blueprints for future museums.

    Museums should explore and uncover the universe and humanity of the new and modern man emerging especially from increasingly wealthy non-western nations.

    The aim of big, state-sponsored museums, on the other hand, is to represent the state. This is neither a good nor an innocent objective.

    I would like to outline my thoughts in order:

    1 Large national museums such as the Louvre and the Hermitage took shape and turned into essential tourist destinations, alongside the opening of royal and imperial palaces to the public. These institutions, now national symbols, have presented the story of a nation – in other words, history – as much more important than the stories of individuals. This is unfortunate: the stories of individuals are much better suited to displaying the depths of our humanity.

    2 We can see that the transitions from palaces to national museums, and from epics to novels, are parallel processes. Epics are like palaces, and speak of the heroics of old kings who lived in them. National museums, then, should be like novels; but they are not.

    3 We are sick and tired of museums that try to construct historical narratives of a society, community, team, nation, state, people, company or species. We all know that the ordinary, everyday stories of individuals are richer, more humane and much more joyful than the stories of colossal cultures.

    4 Demonstrating the wealth of Chinese, Indian, Mexican, Iranian or Turkish history and culture is not an issue – it must, of course, be done, but it is not difficult to do. The real challenge is to use museums to tell, with the same brilliance, depth and power, the stories of the individual human beings living in these countries.

    5 The measure of a museum’s success should not be its ability to represent a state, nation or company, or a particular history. It should be its capacity to reveal the humanity of individuals.

    6 It is imperative that museums become smaller, more individualistic, and cheaper. This is the only way that they will ever tell stories on a human scale. Big museums with their wide doors call upon us to forget our humanity and embrace the state and its human masses. This is why millions outside the western world are afraid of going to museums.

    7 The aim of present and future museums must not be to represent the state, but to recreate the world of single human beings – the same human beings who have laboured under ruthless oppressions for hundreds of years.

    8 The resources that are channelled into monumental, symbolic museums should be diverted into smaller museums that tell the stories of individuals. These resources should also be used to encourage and support people in turning their own small homes and stories into exhibition spaces.

    9 If objects are not uprooted from their environs and their streets, but are situated with care and ingenuity in their own natural homes, they will already portray their own stories.

    10 Monumental buildings that dominate neighbourhoods and entire cities do not bring out our humanity; on the contrary, they quash it. It is more humane to be able to imagine modest museums that turn the neighbourhoods and streets, and the homes and shops nearby, into elements of the exhibition.

    11 The future of museums is inside our own homes.

    12 The picture is, in fact, simple:

    Epics v Novels

    Representation v Expression

    Monuments v Homes

    Histories v Stories

    Nation v Person

    Groups, Teams v the Individual

    Large and expensive v Small and cheap

    • The Museum of Innocence, Istanbul, opens on 21 April.

    Like His Grandfather, Kim Jong Un Plays to North Korea's Generals

    Posted on 16th April 2012 in The monuments of world

    North Korean leader Kim Jong-Un waves his hand to the people during a military parade held to celebrate the centenary of the birth of the North’s founder Kim Il-Sung in Pyongyang April 15, 2012 in this picture released by the North Korea’s KCNA on April 16, 2012.

    KCNA / Reuters

    On April 15, the 100th anniversary of the his grandfather’s birth, beefy 29-year old Kim Jong Un stepped up to the microphone and for the first time, the citizenry of the Democratic People’s Republic of Korea (DPRK) as well as a world of curious onlookers, could actually hear what the young man sounded like. — The spitting image of his forefather’s propaganda portraits, “Lil’ Kim” — as he has been called by the foreign press — spoke clearly and with confidence for 20 minutes with the military’s general staff at his side and thousands of troops at attention in front of him in central Pyongyang’s Kim Il Sung square, named after the founding dynast and “Great Leader.”

    It took some spine to rise to what was, in the North Korean context, a significant, even august occasion — more so for a young man who has been the top leader of North Korea for just a few months, following the death of his father, Kim Jong Il, in December. Sunday was an occasion the nation’s leadership had been focused on for a long, long time; the centenary of Kim Il Sung’s birth was to be the day that North Korea could proudly say it was a “strong and prosperous nation” — a phrase repeated endlessly (and mindlessly) in North Korean propaganda as far back as I can remember. The nation’s university students have not been attending classes this year; they have been out instead at construction sites, building statues and other monuments of glorification to the Great Leader and the founding of his Democratic People’s Republic of Korea. And so the young man who has thus far projected the image of someone with a common touch (he seems to laugh and joke easily both with ordinary soldiers close to him in age and with Generals old enough to be his grandfather) managed to pull off his grandest public appearance yet without much of a hitch.

    (PHOTOS: North Korea Missile Launch Fails)

    Yet because he is so young, and because he spent time as a teenager going to high school in Switzerland, one of the richest countries in the West, it’s impossible to watch Kim Jong Un on an occasion like yesterday’s and wonder whether the young man might have a sense of reality — or irony, even — that’s missing among his elders, the men who are power behind his throne. Just two days before the speech and spectacle, North Korea had allowed 50 foreign correspondents to come to witness the launch of what Pyongyang called a satellite, but what the outside world considered a long-range missile. The exercise, presumably, was to demonstrate that the North is indeed a “strong” nation. As it happened, the missile went up from the launch site near the Chinese border, flew for less than two minutes, then plopped pathetically into the Yellow Sea — an abject failure. With the world watching, even the newscaster in Pyongyang conceded as much.

    As for the notion that North Korea is becoming a “prosperous” nation, consider that in response to the launch — which violated U.N. resolutions designed to deter Pyongyang from pursuing its ballistic missile program — the Obama administration canceled a food aid program with Pyongyang, which it had agreed to in late February, shortly after Kim Jong Il’s death. (Pyongyang had agreed in return to a “moratorium” on both its nuclear program and its ballistic missile effort. ) North Korea, according to military analysts, spent at minimum tens of millions of dollars on the failed missile launch, yet requires food aid in order to be able to feed its population.

    On the day of the glorious anniversary, in other words, it couldn’t be more obvious that North Korea is neither strong nor prosperous. Surely, at some level, young Kim Jong Un must understand this.

    (MORE: Kim Comes Clean on Rocket Failure, but Can North Korea Handle the Truth?)

    Yet during his speech on Sunday, young Jong Un said he was committed to carrying out the policies of his father, known as “military first politics.” Dating back to the mid-1990s, the policy, simply put, means (as Kim Jong Il put it) “placing top priority of military affairs.” For a dictatorship confronted with a famine that was then killing millions, putting the “military first” made eminent sense for the ruling family. As Cheong Seong Chang, a senior fellow at the Sejong Institute in Seoul wrote, the Kim dynasty was then “faced with problems in guaranteeing its political security based on its citizens’ ‘voluntar’ support, and its dependence on coercive force increased as… the domestic economic situation turned more unfavorable.” (Translation: take care of the guys with the guns, lest they take care of you….)

    The vast majority of North Korea watchers at the time of Kim Jong Il’s death believed that Jong Un would carry on with his father’s policy, because practically speaking, he has little choice. For all the mythology about the inherent authority of the Kim dynasty in North Korea, the Generals are Jong Un’s key backers. He’s not likely to do anything to anger them — not for a long, long time, anyway. To the contrary, as the speech yesterday indicates, he’s likely to want to appease them.

    And they are no doubt very angry right now, in the wake of the humiliating failure of the missile launch. They are likely to want to show the world that North Korea’s military is actually not a joke. How best to do that? As Ralph Cossa, head of the Pacific Forum at the Center for Strategic and International studies says, “the failure makes it even more likely that the North will now attempt a nuclear test in the not too distant future.”

    That, unfortunately, is probably right. Kim Jong Il wasn’t much for public speeches, broadcast nationally (according to some analysts he did it just once), and maybe Jong Un has more of a populist touch, evocative of his grandfather. But when it comes to how the North Korean regime behaves, the bad news is that the new Kim seems like a chip of the old block.

    MORE: North Korea’s Rocket Fails, But More Fireworks Could Follow

    North Korea: Kim Jong Un Channels Grandfather in Speech

    Posted on 16th April 2012 in The monuments of world

    North Korean leader Kim Jong Un waves to the crowd during a military parade celebrating the centenary of Kim Il Sung’s birth in Pyongyang on April 15, 2012

    KCNA / Reuters

    On April 15, the 100th anniversary of the his grandfather’s birth, beefy 29-year-old Kim Jong Un stepped up to the microphone, and for the first time, the citizenry of the Democratic People’s Republic of Korea (DPRK), as well as a world of curious onlookers, could actually hear what the young man sounded like. The spitting image of his forefather’s propaganda portraits, Lil’ Kim — as he has been called by the foreign press — spoke clearly and with confidence for 20 minutes with the military’s general staff at his side and thousands of troops at attention in front of him in central Pyongyang’s Kim Il Sung Square, named after the founding dynast and Great Leader.

    It took some spine to rise to what was, in the North Korean context, a significant, even august occasion — more so for a young man who has been the top leader of North Korea for just a few months, following the death of his father Kim Jong Il in December. Sunday was an occasion the nation’s leadership had been focused on for a long, long time; the centenary of Kim Il Sung’s birth was to be the day that North Korea could proudly say it was a “strong and prosperous nation” — a phrase repeated endlessly (and mindlessly) in North Korean propaganda as far back as I can remember. The nation’s university students have not been attending classes this year; they have been instead at construction sites, building statues and other monuments of glorification to the Great Leader and the founding of his Democratic People’s Republic of Korea. And so the young man who has thus far projected the image of someone with a common touch (he seems to laugh and joke easily both with ordinary soldiers close to him in age and with generals old enough to be his grandfather) managed to pull off his grandest public appearance yet without much of a hitch.

    (PHOTOS: North Korea Missile Launch Fails)

    Yet because he is so young, and because he spent time as a teenager going to high school in Switzerland, one of the richest countries in the West, it’s impossible to watch Kim Jong Un on an occasion like yesterday’s and not wonder whether the young man might have a sense of reality — or irony, even — that’s missing among his elders, the men who are the power behind his throne. Just two days before the speech and spectacle, North Korea had allowed 50 foreign correspondents to go and witness the launch of what Pyongyang called a satellite, but what the rest of the world considered a long-range missile. The exercise, presumably, was to demonstrate that the North is indeed a “strong” nation. As it happened, the missile went up from the launch site near the Chinese border, flew for less than two minutes, then plopped pathetically into the Yellow Sea — an abject failure. With the world watching, even the newscaster in Pyongyang conceded as much.

    As for the notion that North Korea is becoming a “prosperous” nation, consider that in response to the launch — which violated U.N. resolutions designed to deter Pyongyang from pursuing its ballistic-missile program — the Obama Administration canceled a food-aid program with Pyongyang, which it had agreed to in late February, shortly after Kim Jong Il’s death. (Pyongyang had agreed in return to a “moratorium” on both its nuclear program and its ballistic-missile effort.) North Korea, according to military analysts, spent at minimum tens of millions of dollars on the failed missile launch, yet requires food aid in order to be able to feed its population.

    On the day of the glorious anniversary, in other words, it couldn’t be more obvious that North Korea is neither strong nor prosperous. Surely, at some level, young Kim Jong Un must understand this.

    (MORE: Kim Comes Clean on Rocket Failure, but Can North Korea Handle the Truth?)

    Yet during his speech on Sunday, young Kim Jong Un said he was committed to carrying out the policies of his father, known as “military-first politics.” Dating back to the mid-1990s, the policy, simply put, means (as Kim Jong Il put it) “placing top priority of military affairs.” For a dictatorship confronted with a famine that was then killing millions, putting the military first made eminent sense for the ruling family. As Cheong Seong-chang, a senior fellow at the Sejong Institute in Seoul, wrote, the Kim dynasty was then “faced with problems in guaranteeing its political security based on its citizens’ ‘voluntary’ support, and its dependence on coercive force increased as … the domestic economic situation turned more unfavorable.” (Translation: take care of the guys with the guns, lest they take care of you.)

    The vast majority of North Korea watchers at the time of Kim Jong Il’s death believed that Kim Jong Un would carry on with his father’s policy, because practically speaking, he has little choice. For all the mythology about the inherent authority of the Kim dynasty in North Korea, the generals are Kim Jong Un’s key backers. He’s not likely to do anything to anger them — not for a long, long time, anyway. To the contrary, as the speech yesterday indicates, he’s likely to want to appease them.

    And they are no doubt very angry right now, in the wake of the humiliating failure of the missile launch. They are likely to want to show the world that North Korea’s military is actually not a joke. How best to do that? As Ralph Cossa, head of the Pacific Forum at the Center for Strategic and International Studies, says: “The failure makes it even more likely that the North will now attempt a nuclear test in the not-too-distant future.”

    That, unfortunately, is probably right. Kim Jong Il wasn’t much for public speeches, broadcast nationally (according to some analysts, he did it just once), and maybe Kim Jong Un has more of a populist touch, evocative of his grandfather. But when it comes to how the North Korean regime behaves, the bad news is that the new Kim seems like a chip off the old block.

    MORE: North Korea’s Rocket Fails, but More Fireworks Could Follow

    Shen Yun Performers Take a Break and Visit the Sights of London

    Posted on 14th April 2012 in The monuments of world

    Louis Makiello
    Epoch Times Staff
    Created: April 13, 2012 Last Updated: April 13, 2012

    Shen Yun Performing Arts International Company

    Shen Yun Performing Arts International Company pictured together in front of Big Ben in London. (Simon Gross/The Epoch Times)

    Performers from Shen Yun Performing Arts International Company took a break in their busy schedule to visit London on Friday, Apr. 13, before an evening performance at the London Coliseum.

    The artists have performed in Berlin, Frankfurt, Paris, Stockholm, The Hague, and Zürich before coming to London. The entire company travels together in coaches. They have little free time left over from performing, travelling, practising, and attending VIP receptions.

    Brian Nieh, a dancer with the company, told The Epoch Times: “It’s just really nice to get out and check out the city sometimes because if you ask a lot of the dancers, they have the same feeling. Sometimes we get to a city and then all we see are the hotel, our bus, and then backstage. Sometimes we don’t even get to see the lobby.”

    The company walked around central London and saw the Houses of Parliament, Whitehall, Big Ben, a memorial for soldiers who died in the Battle of Britain, and Tower Bridge.

    Mr. Nieh said: “Europe is such a wonderful place with beautiful scenery and lots of history; it’s really great to be able to go out and check out famous monuments or buildings.”

    When not on tour, many of the performers train with some of the world’s top Chinese singers, musicians, costume designers, choreographers and other dancers to produce a new show every year.

    With additional reporting by Lee Hall.

    Shen Yun Performing Arts, based in New York, has three touring companies that perform simultaneously around the world, with a mission to revive traditional Chinese culture. Shen Yun Performing Arts International Company will perform at The London Coliseum until April 15.

    For more information visit ShenYunPerformingArts.org

    The Epoch Times is a proud sponsor of Shen Yun Performing Arts.

    Italy's museum czar's recipe: Cultural tourism can help end recession

    Posted on 11th April 2012 in The monuments of world

    ROME – One of Italy‘s top culture officials has pushed private investment in the country’s museums and galleries and the seemingly insatiable Chinese and Indian appetites for art and archaeology as the way to pull the country out of its recession.

    Mario Resca, a former CEO of McDonald’s Italian operations who was appointed in 2008 by the government of Silvio Berlusconi to be director-general of the Culture Ministry, said that an increase in ticket sales to Italian museums has not been matched by an increase in state finding .

    Chatting with a small group of foreign correspondents in Rome, Resca said the number of visitors to state museums and archaeological sites increased by some 15 per cent from 2009 to 2010 and by about 7 per cent from 2010 to 2011.

    But budgets and investment have not risen with visitor numbers. Resca acknowledges that the budget shortfall isn’t about to be reversed, thanks to the latest round of austerity cuts ordered by Berlusconi’s successor, Premier Mario Monti.

    Instead, Resca proposes that Italy should look to private investment to develop the economic potential of its cultural heritage, adding that Monti was “making a mistake” by not pushing for tax breaks to encourage private investment in Italy’s museums and archaeological tourist sites.

    “It’s hard to restart (the economy) with manufacturing,” Resca argued. Selling more Italian cars and refrigerators isn’t about to make the country the global leader in manufacturing, but Italy is well-positioned to become the world’s No. 1 in tourism centred on culture, he said.

    “Indians, Chinese don’t come to swim or ski in Italy but to see our culture,” Resca added.

    Appointed to tap the economic potential of Italy’s artistic and archaeological heritage, the culture ministry official has pushed for longer museum hours to encourage more Italians to visit them. “If we close a museum at 5 p.m., only vacationers can go.”

    At the time, the appointment of a former hamburger chain executive to improve the situation of Italy’s museums and monuments set off an outcry from museum directors and art world officials worried that he lacked the professional background for the post.

    Resca, whose mandate runs out in a few months, brushed off the fears.

    “Maybe an art historian isn’t the best person to manage Pompeii, with 900 employees, contracts to stipulate,” said Resca.