By Howard Amos
The St. Petersburg Times
Published: April 11, 2012 (Issue # 1703)
 HOWARD AMOS / SPT
A monument of Mikhail Yaroslavich, a prince of Tver in the 13th century, standing on Sovietskaya Ploshchad in the well-maintained city center.
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TVER — Scattered across the world are three monuments to Afanasy Nikitin, one of the first-recorded Europeans to go to India — and a Tver native.
There is a black obelisk to the south of Mumbai where he purportedly stepped ashore and a statue in Ukraine’s Feodosiya where he documented his adventures. But the grandest memorial stands in his hometown.
The bronze figure shows the bearded explorer, who may have converted to Islam while in India, striding forward and full of purpose. It stands by the Volga River on the city’s long embankment, which is fringed on both sides by churches and the pastel-colored facades of 18th-century houses.
Nikitin left the city known as the “gateway to Moscow” in the 15th century and traveled down the Volga, down to Baku and then across the Caspian Sea and through Persia to India.
Though he never made it back alive, his book “Journey Across Three Seas” became a famous travelogue. A movie of Nikitin’s life was made in both Hindi and Russian in 1958, and rock heartthrob Boris Grebenshchikov even wrote a song about the merchant with wanderlust.
But Tver’s link with India is not just something that belongs to history. One of the city’s poster boys today is Indian-born Harminder Chhatwal, owner of the region’s most successful supermarket chain, Tverskoi Kupets. Chhatwal came to the city as a student in 1991 and has lived there ever since. Now a Russian citizen, he even entered local politics on the United Russia ticket.
Chhatwal is not the only foreign presence in town. Japan’s Hitachi began the construction of a heavy-machinery factory with the support of the European Bank of Reconstruction and Development last year. And there are joint ventures with Swedish and Swiss firms. Finnish coffee giant Paulig opened a roaster in 2011, which can process up to 6 million kilograms of coffee annually.
The older of the two bridges that straddle the Volga as it meanders through Tver is a formidable cast-iron structure built by a Czech engineer in 1898 and partly financed by a French-Belgian carriage-making company.
The Volga is the heart of the city, which grew from the point where the 3,530-kilometer waterway joins with its more diminutive partner, the Tvertsa River. The city is the first big urban center of note on the Volga, which arises from a spring nearby in the Tver region.
Tver is also located on the main railway lines and roads between the country’s two biggest cities — under the tsars the city was the 19th of 25 postal stations from the capital, St. Petersburg.
Though historians trace its origins back to the 12th century when Tver was founded by traders from Novgorod and recount its medieval struggle for supremacy with a young Moscow, there is little trace left of those times. A cataclysmic fire in 1763 means that the dominating architectural decor today is of Catherine the Great’s 18th century.
Much, of course, was reconstructed after World War II and the Nazi occupation. About 20,000 Soviet soldiers were killed in the 1941 battle for the city. Then Tver was known as Kalinin, after the Bolshevik revolutionary and official head of the Soviet Union between 1919 and 1946.
In recent years, Tver has undergone a new cultural renaissance. As part of a state program called, Ver v Tver, or “Believe in Tver,” Moscow art entrepreneur Marat Gelman has launched a modern art gallery, TverCA, in the run-down Soviet river station at the confluence of the Volga and the Tvertsa. Following a similar project in Perm, Gelman is looking to replicate his success.
But the well-maintained city center, redolent with neoclassical elegance, fades when you venture outside the city. The region as a whole has one of the highest levels of population decline in central Russia, losing 8 percent of its residents between 2002 and 2010, according to census figures.
More poetically, the region is also littered with the crumbling country estates of the imperial nobility that used to exit en masse from St. Petersburg in the summer months. A lack of funds and the sheer quantity of these sites mean that they are gradually being lost forever.
 HOWARD AMOS / SPT
A bundled up woman selling fish caught in the Volga River, the heart of the city.
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One modern son of Tver, the chanson superstar Mikhail Krug, had a particularly tragic end when he was killed by intruders in his city apartment in 2002 at the age of 50. His grave is still a point of pilgrimage for avid fans.
In a song about his home, “My Dear Town,” Krug’s opening verse goes: “My dear town of grief and tear/ The trusty foundation of Old Russia / You fall asleep to the whispers of the Volga and the Tvertsa / You fall asleep to the whispers of birches / Sleep my dear Mother Tver.”
Krug is buried in the Dmitovo-Cherkassky Cemetery.
What to see if you have two hours
Any visitor to Tver will be drawn inexorably to the city’s riverfront. But, never fear, this is where you should be. The city’s main sites, including onion-domed churches, monasteries, parks, monuments and the graceful 18th-century houses, line the flanks of the Volga. One can simply stroll up and down the two sides of the river, enjoying the view.
The most spectacular site to visit is Catherine the Great’s Travel Palace (3-3a Sovietskaya Ulitsa; +7 4822-34-25-61; gallery.tversu.ru), where emperors would stay on their trips between Saint Petersburg and Moscow. Set slightly back from the river, Russia’s most famous historian, Mikhail Karamzin, once did a public reading in the building to an audience, which included Alexander I. Today, it is an art gallery housing works by local artists and some treasures from nearby archaeological excavations.
What to do if you have two days
Those with more time on their hands can drop by some of the city’s churches and museums, or even venture out into a hinterland famed for its thousands of freshwater lakes.
Some of the small museums worth a visit include the Mikhail Saltykov-Shchedrin House-Museum (11/37 Rybatskaya Ulitsa; +7 4822-34-34-96), where the famous satirist lived while he was serving as a deputy governor, and if peasant tools and merchant trinkets are your thing, the Museum of Tver’s Way of Life (19/4 Ulitsa Gorkova; +7 4822-52-49-03) or the Tver Local History Museum (5 Sovietskaya Ulitsa; +7 4822-34-47-15). Information about all of Tver’s museums — and those in nearby towns — can be found at Tvermuzeum.ru.
If you have time to leave the city, a pleasant day trip can be made 60 kilometers along the road to St. Petersburg to the old town of Torzhok that has its own Travel Palace built for Catherine the Great. Further to the east is the picturesque Seliger Lake — actually a system of lakes — set in the rolling Valdai Hills. In July, the area is inundated with tens of thousands of youthful supporters of Prime Minister Vladimir Putin taking part in their annual political forum.
If you have time to head westward, you could aim for the small town of Kalyazin — also within striking distance of Sergiyev Posad and some of the northernmost towns of Moscow’s Golden Ring. On the Volga, Kalyazin is known for the haunting sight of the bell tower of the Makaryevsky Monastery that rises above the waters of the Uglich reservoir. The site was flooded during the construction of a hydroelectric station in 1940.
Nightlife
 HOWARD AMOS / SPT
A street poster calling on local residents to be proud of their Tver heritage.
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Classical music-lovers can visit the Tver Region Philharmonic (Teatralnaya Ploshad; +7 4822-34-64-34; tverfilarmonic.ru) that puts on regular concerts. Or you could see a movie at one of the only Soviet architectural intrusions on the city’s riverfront — the Zvezda Cinema (1 Naberezhnaya Stepana Razina; +7 4822-77-71-91; zvezda-kino.ru), which was built in 1937 as the constructivist movement was ending. The Tver Academic Drama Theater (16 Sovietskaya Ulitsa; +7 4822-32-09-09; dramteatr-tver.ru) also puts on regular shows.
If you’re looking to lengthen your evening, however, then the Sunrise Club (50 Ulitsa Zhigareva; +7 4822-34-96-55; clubsunrise.ru) has one of the biggest dance floors in town — it also functions as a restaurant during the day. And for fans of the 1980s, there is the ‘80s Disco (5 Ulitsa Blagoyeva; +7 4822 50-33-22).
Where to eat
The pedestrian mall Tryokhsvyatskaya Ulitsa — Tver’s version of Moscow’s Arbat — that runs through the center, part way between the railway station and the Volga is packed with fast-food outlets, coffee houses and restaurants. Western chains like Baskin-Robbins compete with Russian chains. Andy Warhol mock-ups of Saddam Hussein and Colonel Moammar Gadhafi make the Kalinin Bar (25/29 Tryokhsvyatskaya Ulitsa; +7 4822-35-71-42) one of the most visible. It serves basic food as well as drinks. Another option is Fortuna (15 Tryokhsvyatskaya Ulitsa; +7 4822-33-09-49; fortuna-tver.ru) that offers a wide variety of dishes in an old merchant house. Main courses start from about 500 rubles ($17).
Many of Tver’s pricier restaurants are to be found attached to its hotels. One is Birch Groves (14 Moskovskoye Shosse; +7 4822-49-77-80; parkhotel.ru/restaurant), a part of the Tver Park Hotel, where meat dishes cost about 1,000 rubles.
Where to stay
The 159-room Volga Hotel (1 Ulitsa Zhelyabova; +7 4822 34-81-23; volga-tver.ru) is an unlovely building near the center of town — but rooms can be had from 2,500 rubles ($83) a night and apartments from upward of 5,000 rubles ($166). An even more budget option is the Tourist Hotel (47/102 Ulitsa Kominterna; +7 4822-34-61-78; hotel-tourist.ru), a stone’s throw from the railroad and bus stations. A one-person room starts at 1,300 rubles ($44) a night.
With a restaurant, spa room and conference facilities, the Osnabruk Hotel (20 Ulitsa Saltykova-Shchedrina; +7 4822-35-84-33; hotel.tver.ru) in the center of town offers a more upmarket stay. A one-person bedroom begins at 3,200 rubles ($110) while the top-range luxury rooms will set you back between 4,900 rubles and 5,900 rubles ($165-200). Nearer the edge of town but overlooking the Volga River is the smaller Tver Park Hotel (14 Moskovskoye Shosse; +7 4822-53-77-22; parkhotel.ru). A deluxe suite with a Volga view costs 4,600 rubles per night.
Conversation starters
If you want to get a reaction out of somebody from Tver — possibly a smile, possibly not — call them by their nickname — kozyol (for a man) or kozla (for a woman), which means goat. The apocryphal reason behind the (affectionate) term is that once, arriving in Tver after long delay, Catherine the Great found only a stray goat waiting where she was supposed to have been met by cheering crowds.
Or you could bring up former Tver Governor Dmitry Zelenin who stepped down in 2011, shortly after he used Twitter to post a photo of a worm he purportedly found in his food at a presidential reception. The Kremlin cast doubt on the veracity of his claim.
 HOWARD AMOS / SPT
One of the numerous ancient churches scattered throughout the city.
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How to get there
The easiest way to reach Tver from St. Petersburg is by train. There are dozens of daily trains from the city’s Moscow Railway Station. The journey takes at least six hours and tickets cost 870 rubles ($30) for a platzkart ticket and 2,070 rubles ($70) for a coupe ticket each way.
On the main line between St. Petersburg and the capital, the express Sapsan service is the quickest option — it stops in Tver 2 hours and 40 minutes after leaving St. Petersburg. Ticket prices vary depending on the day and time, but can cost between 2,200 and 6,000 rubles ($74 to $200).
Tver is not served by a civilian airport, although there are plans to build one.
Tver
Population: 404,150
Main industries: Machine-building and chemicals
Mayor: Vladimir Babichev
Founded in 1135
Interesting fact: Empress Catherine the Great said Tver was Russia’s second most beautiful city after St. Petersburg.
Helpful contacts: • Mayor Vladimir Babichev (+7 4822-35-57-88; tverduma.ru), • head of the Tver Chamber of Commerce Leonid Musin (+7 4822-35-98-43; tverregion.ru)
Sister cities: Veliko Tarnovo, Bulgaria; Yingkou, China; Hämeenlinna, Finland; Besancon, France; Kaspovar, Hungary; Bergamo, Italy; Khmelnitsky, Ukraine.
Major Businesses
• Tver Wagon Factory (45B Peterburgskoye Shosse; +7 4822-55-91-00; tvz.ru). One of the oldest factories in town, it has been churning out railway cars since its opening under Tsar Nicholas II in 1898. The biggest factory of its type in the country, it is 42.5 percent state-controlled.
• Tvershyolk (1 Dvor Proletarki;
+7 4822-42-24-97). Built in 1954 on the ruins of a cotton factory destroyed during World War II, Tver’s silk factory actually works with a variety of fabrics, including flax, and fulfills uniform contracts for the Defense Ministry and other security agencies.
• Tverstekloplastik (45 Ulitsa P. Savelevoi; +7 4822-55-33-11; steklonit.com) is one of two factories owned by Steklonit, part of the Ruskompozit group, the country’s biggest producer of synthetic materials and fiberglass. The plant produces glass fibers used for everything from small boats to ice hockey protection pads.